06 Equinox running hot--need some help
 

Coming back from some errands today I noticed the truck was getting hot. I pulled over and checked for obvious issues, found none. Called FIL to bring his trailer ton get me. I was only a few miles from home but wanted to be safe.

We replaced the thermostat and waterpump but it is still running too warm.

Coolant is up but I noticed the radiator hoses were not hot. Radiator is cool to the touch.

Blockage in the radiator?

I did a search online but didn't find a good answer.

Any thoughts from the group?

Thanks

Could be head gasket. Any water in oil or can you check cylinder compression?

Oil is clean. Do not have compression check tools but FIL probably does.

thanks

Blockage before the radiator.

Any missing pieces from the waterpump you took out?

Have you ever seen the jello consistency, butter colored garbage that accumulates in these engines?

Air bubble in the system. these new fangled engines are a real booger to bleed. So if you don't have water around the thermostate it won't open. Same if there is air around the temp sensor that kicks on cooling fans, won't kick on.

Yeah I would check to see if you have to bleed the air out of the system. I forgot to do this with my BMW once. I was lucky I didn't cause any damage when I noticed the engine running hot.

Bleeding the system now. Seems to be working as the hoses to the radiator are getting hotnow asis the radiator.

This website seemed to useful for TSBs and recalls
....but is infected by tons of Google and Facebook javascript...
2006 Chevrolet Equinox engine problems & complaints | CarComplaints.com

F@@@!!!!

I flushed the radiator and it is fine. Water flow through nicely.

Put in fresh antifreeze and bled the system. I opened the bleeder several times and I do not get any more bubbles. It is still running too hot, though.

I am not getting any heat in the cabin so that would tell me that fluid isn't flowing through the heater core. 1 hose to the core is hot while the other is not.


I looked at the recall site and it looks like blown head gaskets are pretty common. Some of the comments were about rough idling in the morning which I had a few times in the past couple of months and running hotter than normal.

argh

Time to waste another weekend on testing?
-Bleed coolant system again. Sometimes air bubbles don't circulate through the first time around.
-Compression even on all cylinders.
-leak down using an air compressor.
-Check plugs while they are out.
-Check fluids for cross contamination.
-Bump start the radiator fan directly with jumpers.
(It should kick on when the ECU sends a signal that the water is hot.)
(The temp sensor should have full continuity then.)

Did some more searching on the Interweb.

I am going to try flushing the heater core tomorrow. Indications are that if the "in" hose is hot but the "out" is cold(as they are) the core may be clogged.

Worse case is the head gaskets but I'm hoping for the best.

Thanks for all of the advice so far. I really appreciate it.

At least it's nice enough that I can drive the 911 daily while the Suquinox is down.

BTW-the cooling fans are coming on at the correct times.

I have an electronic version of this test kit, but it will tell you if you have a bad head gasket very easily, and quickly.

Amazon.com: Lisle 75500 - Detector Combustion Leak: Automotive

Most auto stores sell a variation of this.

Engine temp is staying normal but still air in the system. Cabin heat comes and goes.

How many freakin' times should one have to bleed the air out?

I'm guessing, but can you pinch off the main return somehow to force more pressure through the core bypass?
(assuming it's not a sealed system and the rad cap is off)

I have no experience on vehicles that need bleeding the cooling system. Sounds like a very bad design.

That said, make sure the "air" you seem to have in the system isn't combustion gas making its way back into the system. See above.

What I don't like here is that you have really not found the root cause for the overheating, have you? Was it the thermostat? Did you bench (stove) test it?

G

Talked to a mechanic neighbor today. He suggested bleeding it again after driving it around a bit.
We did and we now have consistent heat. He has a pressure testing tool at work he will bring home tomorrow and we'll check for leaks that may be minute.

Haynes manual doesn't have any info on bleeding the system anywhere I can find.

I'm cautiously optimistic and will keep my eye on things for now.

The thermostat was stuck closed which was the problem.

Very nice and easy fix...phheww:eek:

Hope you have it sorted. I hate it when our own cars go down. If I have the time, I like to bring then up to full temperature, usually by driving , then let them completely cool down with the cap off, ( once it is cool enough to open the system ) . This seems to allow me to get get the air pockets out of most cars systems. I have one of those vacum fill thingies for the ones that are really a pia.
Keep us posted .

Sounds like an air pocket to me.

Get yourself one of these and call it a day.

Pelican Parts.com - AIRLIFT II - Cooling System Tool

edit: oops, stuck thermostat will do that too.

I hope it's sorted, too Fred.

We were bleeding the air by loosening the nut that the bleeder screw goes into instead of just the small bleed screw. DOH!! MY fault totally.