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-   -   Need advice/guidance on brush hogs... (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/871123-need-advice-guidance-brush-hogs.html)

KFC911 06-17-2015 03:31 PM

Need advice/guidance on brush hogs...
 
Time to start a search for a bush hog (going behind a mid size JD) and I don't know squat. All advice, opinions and suggestons are welcome. I'm thinkin' "new", cause I don't want someone's beat up crap but haven't even begun to look yet. Probably a smaller one....4-5' (pros/cons?). Point me in the right direction guys!

KFC911 06-17-2015 03:38 PM

Dang...wrong forum...

Anyone got advice on Obama hogs while I'm here :D

KFC911 06-17-2015 03:57 PM

Not only the wrong forum, but I can't speel either....BUSH hogs (Brush was a typo, but luckily, I guess it still makes sense).

klm2500hd 06-17-2015 05:13 PM

Bang for the buck, everything attachments.com or lands pride brand. Just bought an 8 footer lands pride this spring for work, it takes a serious beating and hasn't broke yet (40+ hrs a week of use)

Dan J 06-17-2015 05:38 PM

I bought a used one off Craigs list. 5' It's an older York brand
I don't think you could wear this prehistoric critter out if you tried. I've used it
for a couple years around the farm with no issues
It eats 3" trees for breakfast

intakexhaust 06-17-2015 05:48 PM

What do you mean by mid-size tractor? Need a HP rating. Described as a rotary cutter. Bush Hog is a trade name. +1 for Land Pride. Wood's has long been a solid company with good product. Heavier gauge steel.

You'll run it in a PTO 540 rpm (never in the high range). Set the tailwheel for the desired cut height, front should never drag to the ground but have a slightly lower angle than the rear. So if looking from the side, the bottom skid should be pitched a bit lower than the rear. Assuming you have a 3 point hitch, set the tractors lift arms and the upper link should properly set to float. Use anti-sway links. Also, the upper link on the tractor side should be pinned to the lowest hole.

Depends if the mower has a safety clutch (in case of hitting something) but you should have some mild grade shear pins handy. If out in the back forty, carry some extras.

Not much maintenance other than grease shots to the u-joints, drive shaft sleeve, tailwheel. Use a heavyweight gear lube in the box. Should have some sort of pipe plug for oil level. You want something that's simple to pull the blades. Once removed, and to sharpen, mount the blade in a vise, keep the exact factory angle and use an angle grinder to dress. Even if the blades have some nasty gouges or edge chunk out, don't worry about it. Doesn't matter to the cut quality. Just maintain the factory angle and get a mild edge to it - NOT razor like either.

wdfifteen 06-17-2015 05:55 PM

Mid sized tractor could be a lot of things. I'm thinking 35 hp as mid-sized . What is the model and hp of the tractor you are using?

Jerome74911S 06-17-2015 06:13 PM

I run a five footer on a 38 hp Massey-Ferguson. Most of the time this is adequate power for ordinary mowing, but it will bog down occasionally when I push through heavy 'grass' that's five feet high. And, don't expect to bang through 3" thick brush every day and have the machine last for decades. It may be built for brush, but there are sane limits, but in any case check for rocks in unknown terrain. The blades pivot, but again there are limits when hitting rocks and stumps. Maintain it as intakexhaust outlines in his post and you'll be fine. It's a simple device - just be careful and stay safe.

KFC911 06-17-2015 08:43 PM

Thanks guys...very informative already. I'm not sure about the JD (my uncle purchased it last year after an ice storm hit) and it's been a beast helping clear trees, etc. It's not "full size" however, but I'll get back with more specifics later. Though we've got 17 acres between us, the few acres it will be used on have been cleared of all rocks, etc. and I'll hit the bigger ones with a chainsaw before brushhogging. For example, I cleared over 1/2 acre of hundreds of dense pines last summer....grew up over several years and were 1-4" thick, and like bunnys, they're starting to come back like crazy. So it'll see light/moderate use a couple times per year on smaller 1-2 acre size areas....4-5 acres at most. I'm just beginning my research....

Mark Henry 06-18-2015 04:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KC911 (Post 8672539)
Thanks guys...very informative already. I'm not sure about the JD

Enter the model number into tractordata.com and it will tell you the HP.

Seahawk 06-18-2015 06:53 AM

Great input so far concerning shear pins, set up and HP requirements.

I have a large rotary mower I use to keep the lines around the crop fields clear and pasture mowing. I also use it to clean up the fields after combining.

Of all the equipment I have on the farm the rotary mower is by far the most versatile and effective, but it is the piece of gear that demands the most attention when using. On the larger rotary mowers the spinning mass has a lot of power and inertia.

I never lend it out and my son wasn't allowed to use it until he was sixteen. I have never had any issues but I am very cautious when it is spinning behind my tractor.

greglepore 06-18-2015 09:48 AM

Woods has an "economy" line-forget the brand-that's good bang for the buck. Mine has been solid for six years use behind a 600 Ford.

Jerome74911S 06-18-2015 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seahawk (Post 8672917)
On the larger rotary mowers the spinning mass has a lot of power and inertia.

I don't recall if it was for a 5' or a 6' mower, but when Ford was still building them they specified the tip-speed of the blades when running at 540 rpm input. 300 mph !! Those blades are thick and heavy. I had one of the bolt/pivot pins that the blade attaches to fracture while running, and it fired the blade right through the heavy steel 'body' of the mower. I found it about 40' away. This episode bent the 1 inch thick blade to the extent that it was not usable.

So, again, be careful, and don't use one of these machines with people or animals standing around.

KFC911 06-18-2015 11:12 AM

Thanks again guys for all of your advice and suggestions! I'm a "city boy", and only play in the country, but I hear you guys and have the utmost respect for things like this. I won't actually be the one using it (more than likely....at least anytime soon I hope). My grandfather kept this place with an old Ford and just had a relative/neighbor clear it as necessary, but now it's "our" turn. Just yesterday, one neighbor was clearing adjacent acerage and it sounded like all hell was breaking loose :D. I went by a rural dealer that caters to pros/farmers a few miles away from my property earlier....I know that dealer is "proud" of his stuff, but I got a sticker shock on the Bush Hog brand. I know my uncle paid around 1600 for his finish mower, and was expecting about half of that for a "hog". Once again, thanks....I'm just beginning to search, and might just keep my eyes peeled for an older used one. "He" thought we had one....got away however...."ya snooze ya lose" :p.

pete3799 06-18-2015 11:39 AM

I've got a King Kutter that I bought used about 15 years ago. It's held up well over the years.
I cut around 15 acres every other year with it. Mostly grass but get into the saplings quite often.
I have broken a few shear pins and lost a blade once (like Jerome I found it but needed a new one). Tractor Supply has replacements.

dad911 06-18-2015 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KC911 (Post 8673401)
......I know that dealer is "proud" of his stuff, but I got a sticker shock on the Bush Hog brand. I know my uncle paid around 1600 for his finish mower, and was expecting about half of that for a "hog"......

Bought one from Tractor Supply last year, less than $1000, and if you time it right there are 10% off coupons....

I don't know how well it will hold up, but it's only a gearbox, driveshaft, and a few bearings.... not much to go wrong, parts are cheap.... sure it will outlast me.

KFC911 06-18-2015 02:27 PM

Thanks for the tips guys....I'll check out TS and probably start looking for a good "used" one too. For my modest needs, I'm sure there are plenty of old "workhorses" out there to be found....

KFC911 06-19-2015 11:56 AM

Just an update....the JD is 38hp, the finish mower is a Woods, and I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for an old workhorse (brand won't matter to me, as long as it's a good one). Thanks again guys....particularly on the safety warnings!

ps: Coolest thing this morning....a new born fawn (a few weeks old) was bedded down just 25 ft. from where we were working....it moved "casually" away after we fired the tractor up a second time and drove away. Then it was just casually walking down the other side of a large pond before I spooked it again later bedded down just a few feet away. I love my little slice of paridise ;)

KFC911 06-21-2015 03:49 AM

I've just done a quick search and there seem to be plenty of optons with some of the reputable brands mentioned already. Before I go "shopping", for clearing relatively small areas (1-2 acres) with a few large trees etc. to clear around, behind a mid-size (38 hp) JD, what size cutter should I be looking for? 4/5/6'....I'm thinking 5'....need feedback from those with experience....again ;). Thanks!

edited: I've just located a 6' Bush Hog brand that looks great from the pic, is close by, and the price seems right (650)....is a 38hp tractor "enough"? I'm getting an itchy "trigger finger" :)

pete3799 06-21-2015 05:05 AM

6' may be a little too much for your tractor. Keep in mind that when you lift it with the 3 pt. hitch
the front end will get very light. The 5' on my MF 230 (38 hp) will lift the front end at times. Front weights will help.


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