Catalytic Converter - Dealer or Aftermarket?

[jyl]

Our 2007 Toyota Prius needs a new catalytic converter, per engine light and dealer diagnosis.

The dealer part is $1800 incl $100 of gaskets, or $1900 installed at the dealer.

The aftermarket part is $500 excl gaskets, or $625 installed from a local muffler shop. 5 year warranty.

Any reason to go the dealer route vs the much cheaper aftermarket route? I live in OR.

[porsche4life]

I bought a set of catalytic converters for my Chevy truck off Amazon for like $250. Fit perfectly and it passed emissions with flying colors after I put them on.

[Steve Carlton]

Borla.

[island911]

Originally Posted by jyl

Our 2007 Toyota Prius needs a new catalytic converter, per engine light and dealer diagnosis. ...

That's not right. Cat's are so simple. How could it go bad that quickly?

I would suspect a down-stream sensor first. (and a dealer willing to leverage that knowledge)

[porsche4life]

If the cat truly is bad, it could be indicative of other issues. My truck had been running lean for about a year with the PO, so the cats were smoked. But yes, replace O2 sensors before buying cats.

[Steve Carlton]

How many miles on the car?

[jcommin]

You do know that cat design, materials and elements differ from car to car and year to year. That's why the cat thives cherry pick the cars when they remove cats. Ther are books of their values.

Having said that, I won't be afraid of an aftermarket cat providing it is for the correct vehicle. I would keep the old cat too or atthe least get a scrap credit for it.

But the bigger issue brought up from the previous poster " why do you need to replace the cat and who is telling you to do that?" I see more of an O2 sensor problem than a cat.

[Joe Bob]

In CA, it HAS to be oem or have a CARB executive order as an equivalent. OR you get failed at smog check.

[MBAtarga]

I purchased a "direct replacement" cat from my FLAPS for a Honda Accord a few years ago. I figured - direct replacement meant just that. Aside from having to cut and modify the heat shield and re-route the O2 sensor harness to reach the now far-side opposite end of the "direct replacement" cat - it fit just fine!

[fastfredracing]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

I purchased a "direct replacement" cat from my FLAPS for a Honda Accord a few years ago. I figured - direct replacement meant just that. Aside from having to cut and modify the heat shield and re-route the O2 sensor harness to reach the now far-side opposite end of the "direct replacement" cat - it fit just fine!

The definition of "Direct Fit" is cut, weld, grind, bend , I just laugh at direct fit exhaust system parts anymore . Some are o.k, others are attrocities .

[jyl]

145K miles.

Called an independent Toyota repair shop that I have had good experiences with. They said if the code says bad cat, then it is the cat - they don't recommend replacing the 02 sensors.

Looks like OEM O2 sensors are about $100 for the pair (before and after). Plus labor. I try really hard to avoid working myself on this car . . .

[wdfifteen]

You don't have to guess about the sensors, you can test them. There should be either three or four wires. One is power to the heater and on four wire systems one is the ground for the heater. The other two are signal wires. The heater is most often the problem.
Having said that, my 2003 Tundra's OBDII system will say if it is a sensor and whether the sensor has a heater or signal problem. Bottom iine, if the OBD says it's a cat, it's most likely a cat.

[Targa Me]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

In CA, it HAS to be oem or have a CARB executive order as an equivalent. OR you get failed at smog check.

Fail smog check ONLY if they check for the CARB number.

[Joe Bob]

Some techs are on the ball. They try to protect their license since BAR DOES do spot checks.

[KNS]

Originally Posted by jyl

145K miles.

Called an independent Toyota repair shop that I have had good experiences with. They said if the code says bad cat, then it is the cat - they don't recommend replacing the 02 sensors.

Looks like OEM O2 sensors are about $100 for the pair (before and after). Plus labor. I try really hard to avoid working myself on this car . . .

When I get around 100K miles on a car I replace the O2 sensor(s), at least the pre-cat ones. I figure they get old and lazy and new ones keep everything running well.

I just went through smog testing today on my 192,000 mile 325i (original cats), passed with no problem.

[Hugh R]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

In CA, it HAS to be oem or have a CARB executive order as an equivalent. OR you get failed at smog check.

True, but I've never seen a SMOG tech crawl under any car to look at the CAT.

[Ronbo]

Originally Posted by Hugh R

True, but I've never seen a SMOG tech crawl under any car to look at the CAT.

I've seen them use mirrors to verify the cats.

[911SauCy]

In no way is this personal.

But, I say go dealer route. Not because I would go that route, or that I have ever experienced a clogged cat., or that I would ever consider buying a hybrid (unless it was a leading hypercar) but because I think the irony of the situation is absolutely hysterical and worthy of throwing the money away.

Your PRIUS, has a clogged catalytic converter...that is absolutely priceless.

(You may be able to tell I loath Prius', can't exactly put my finger on why)

[edgemar]

sell the old one. it's probably worth at least $100 on ebay for the metals...

[EarlyPorsche]

Originally Posted by island911

That's not right. Cat's are so simple. How could it go bad that quickly?

I would suspect a down-stream sensor first. (and a dealer willing to leverage that knowledge)

The hybrids have so many starts and stops that they are constantly pumping crud into the cats. Even a hot start uses a bump of fuel to get the engine started to idle...plus the unburnt fuel that passes through the engine no matter what the temperature.