Now that is just crazy talk!

To the OP it mostly depend on how many features and how much accuracy you need/want.

My HF cheapo caliper is just about useless... just sayin...

On the other hand when I traveled for work I carried a inexpensive $10-15 MM just to check voltage and continuity.

Having said that, this looks interesting:
7 Function Clamp-On Digital Multimeter

When does one need the Clamper?
Clamp on! Clamp off! The clamper!

I have very limited experience, so I still am curious when you'd need a $200 meter.
How precise does measuring auto voltage really need to be?
I've used a MM to test if a component is getting power, to isolate the switch or the component.
I've also tested continuity in a wire. In both cases, a $10 MM was fine.

The clamp is for reading current, both AC and DC. I use this feature a lot to measure high efficiency motors under different loads but the average homeowner may never need it.

A caveat I offer in absolute humility.

A bad meter sets one's working knowledges of electricity back at least 3.2 years. 4.7 years if it's only bad for some functions.

I have a Fluke T5-600 that has been with me for about 16+ years. It used to go out in the field with me when I was still doing field service calls. Now it's my "out in the shop" dmm. It's basic, but serves me well when I don't need something fancy.

Autoranging AC/DC voltage, to 600 volts
Resistance to 1kΩ, continuity beep
AC current via leads or through the open-jaw clamp at the top.
etc
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41MNM4K0FAL.jpg

Fluke T5-600 Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester

Wow so much drama about multi meters, whodathunkit?

Well I'm leaning towards a Fluke 117. Appears to be a basic good meter and under $150 so not crazy expensive.

To answer the question about my wants/needs: I want a quality tool that will be the last one I ever buy. My needs are basic... Voltage ac/DC, resistance and continuity.

Most of the more costly meters have functions I'll never use/don't need.

Can't the same be said for a $20 MM from Sears?

Fluke 117 is a very good meter for that price.

Best thing about them is the fusing within the meter.
Not only does it protect the meter, it protects the user.

You just cant say that about all meters.

We use the 115 (very similar to the 117) on our benches at work and the apprentices have a very hard time blowing them up. (like it never happens)

My old Fluke 23 that I purchased 23 years ago while between jobs is still plugging along. My employers have always provided me with very good meters (Fluke/Beckman) while on the job so the 23 didn't get a lot of use but still functions perfectly.

Thanks Bill. I'm liking the 116 because it has a temperature feature which might come in handy for coolant, oil and HVAC. The 117 gives me the non-contact A/C current detector, which I probably won't have much use for, but it does not have a temperature probe feature.

Sounds like you need the Harbor Freight Laser Temperature Sensor AND the Multimeter...

Haha...I already HAD one of those Harbor Freight temp sensors...which quit working after a couple weeks...like just about everything from HF does.

Sometimes Harbor Freight Tools are just 'rented'. But you never return them...

I need to stop looking at this thread... starting to feel the itch to buy a new meter. ;)

Yeah I've sort of quit buying anything from HF that has moving parts, electronics, or is used under heavy load (like could snap and hit you in the face). Other than disposable stuff like nylon/brass brushes for my parts washer I avoid HF.

more than you probably want to know but....:)


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my friend's meter. i think it is the 117.
he once used it to test a car battery. hooked it up, started the car, and the meter recorded the max/min thing and it was essentially a load tester.

i am not great with electrical things..a Fluke would be overkill x10 with me..but that max/min button was effen cool. not even sure if i explained it right.

Keep in mind that without a clamp, to measure amperage the meter needs to be in series. That's where people get into trouble. If you put your meter in series with too many amps you will blow the fuse or wreck the meter. Just have to pay attention, voltage in parallel and current in series. The Fluke 117 will do most everything you need. If you find you need the clamp or different probes, they can all be purchased as accessories.

Here's a +1 for the Simpson analog meter on my bench. As mentioned, it makes certain operations (peaking a tuned circuit) much easer.

A million years ago when I was a HVAC guy we used the clamp to check high amperage... much easier/safer than disconnecting and running 30-40 amps through a meter.

Maybe not super accurate but when you want a ballpark number to know how many amps a huge compressor is pulling it is super easy to do.

I can't help myself....

Give 'em the clamps, Clamps!
http://basementrejects.com/wp-conten...fia-clamps.jpg

Many of the Electrical threads I read about here are determining excess battery draw, or 'is it my battery or alternator' or "why is my wire hot/smoking"

That's why I highly recommend a clamp-on DC (many mutimeters are AC only) meter. Just clamp it around the wire, and measure current. Many meters & fuses smoked with people trying to measure current.

For temps a decent IR Temp gun ($20ish on amazon) is far more useful than a multimeter with a probe.

Also, As I posted earlier, the 12v test light is often more useful than a meter. It will determine not only if there is voltage present, also if it is at a reasonable enough current to light the bulb. For example, a circuit with alot of resistance(corrosion) may still measure 12v on a high impedance meter, but drop to zero under load.

Ok guys after obsessing over this for awhile I bought Klein Tools MM2000 TrueRMS meter. For the price point $120 and features it seemed to be the best choice for me. This meter is comparable to the Fluke 117 but considerably less costly and has more features. A clamp meter would be nice if I was doing mostly AC but it appears clamps are tough to use in tight automotive spaces. Thanks to all who responded with suggestions.

So, you're saying that if a wire is heavily corroded and has a lot of resistance, the meter may still read 12V but the wire will not be able to carry the current and power the accessory?

Yup. As a check put a 1k ohm resister in series with the positive voltmeter lead on your 12v battery and you will still read 12v.