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My suspension was far from stock (though at stock height - lowering ruins the handling) - I would autocross and take it for mountain drives - going into curves it would settle in and carve it. The JSW even with a tweaked suspension just has this unsettling wiggle right before the suspension loads up.
That and the power to weight just felt a lot better
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78 Euro 911sc Targa 03 Hayden SCWDP |
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Team California
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I think that the only one I would consider is the latest model sport wagon. 40 mpg on cheap fuel is plenty good enough for me and I can't get into the idea of driving someone's 15 year old VW around. As good as the cam lobes might have been, I'm just past that phase of life.
![]() Stories about bad door lock modules don't really scare me, it's a modern VAG car and none of them are Toyotas. I wouldn't expect any modern, complex car to be 100% reliable and never break, that's just not realistic. I'm mostly concerned with catastrophic, "game over" failure modes like the injection pump issue I've read about. What is the story with those and the filter I've read about somewhere to catch the shrapnel if it implodes? If the car is cheap enough and the odds are ok, I'll roll the dice. Always wanted one and with the miles I drive, the fuel savings will be very real. Thanks again.
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The wagon is a good choice. I would get a vagcom to replace the DSG fluid, and so that you can DIY the fuel filters (if you're brave). They are all fun cars. The 2.0 CR really makes the car stand out against the petrol units.
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Now in 993 land ...
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Fuel pump failures are in the 2% range or less on the newer cars. So, you have a 1:100 chance of catastrophic failure. VW will fix the pumps under warranty, even on cars that are beyond bumper to bumper and drive train warranties. Get a stick shift to avoid the DSG issues and you'll be all set. They drive nice in stop and go with all the torque. I have had commutes with 30+ minutes of stop and go and not an issue driving a stick. My fuel costs are about $.07 / mile or less in mixed driving.
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I wonder how much a mechanical insurance policy, (so-called extended warranty), costs for one of these that would cover the major failures?
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Ok, reviving my thread:
I know that the old ones, ('03-older), are the best in reliability and the early(?) 2.0 engines are the HPFP failures...what about the 1.9 from say 2006? Absolute junk or manageable with precautions?
There are many for sale and they will not need the re-flash. And they're cheap sometimes. How bad are they? TIA.
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Denis |
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Those are going to run a BEW engine. Bit better then a ALH. I think they're harder to do timing belts on but that's all opinion either way. They're both 1.9l You can't go wrong with either one.
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Denis |
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The biggest fault with the BEW engines are the cams - you add an additional lobe on each cylinder to operate the injector. This reduces all the lobes to a width that is smaller than they should be which increases wear. I can't remember seeing a single cam yet that that wasn't showing excessive wear by the time they got to 100K - if the cams wear too much they take out the lifters and injectors. Check the cost of the injectors.
They do have other little issues that can turn big (transmissions and flywheels for example). While the actual chassis is probably built a bit better than the A4's and probably even the A6 cars I personally would never own one.
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78 Euro 911sc Targa 03 Hayden SCWDP |
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I don't think a BEW will llve nearly as long as am ALH.
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"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands." |
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At any rate, how hard can it be to inspect, and replace if necessary, a cam shaft on a 4-cylinder SOHC engine?? Are common VW parts expensive? Are there any other serious flaws on those motors? HPFP? Or are those only 2.0 engines? Thanks.
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Thanks again. That would be some extreme wear.
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Denis |
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Never mind my last two posts
I did a search and apparently cam wear is an epidemic problem on those motors. It is possible that using the correct 5w40 synthetic oil exclusively and changing it religiously on time might prevent it but it's a huge issue on the cars.
I also found that the cam wear reveals itself easily on visual inspection and also with some other symptoms such as noises and performance issues. There are updated lifters and other parts available for the repair if you catch it on time plus some improved aftermarket cams for more $$. I appreciate the education and I'd still buy one of these for cheap but with eyes open now. Thanks again!
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Denis |
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I have 300,000 miles on mine. I use synthetic 5W-40 exclusively, and I don't have to add oil between changes (6,500 miles).
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"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands." |
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I would say the cam failures are more common on the brm. Either way I wouldn't let that issue be your limiting factor.
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Which is the BRM? What years?
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Denis |
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05-06. Those are the gen before the 2.0 common rail.
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