Yep, that look like a 240 breaker to me too. Changed that out unless you know for sure there are no 240 appliances in the trailer

You will want an outdoor box like this to plug into: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052MF6MI/ref=psdc_495300_t1_B00PR67QSQ

awg 10 wire, ground, neutral (white) and black. Breaker should probably be GFI, single pole for 110 volt.

You can change that 15+30+15 (quad) breaker to a single 30 GFCI and a tandem 1515

Oh damn, so glad I posted here for advice first! I will go back into research mode for the time being. Can I replace that breaker with a 110v version?

If it's 30 A 110, you just need a single pole 30 A breaker - which will be half the width of the double pole 220 dryer breaker. You can just buy 2 breakers and just use 1 of them - as you'll need a breaker to fill the otherwise open space on the panel. (You can't have open slots on the panel cover.)

[QUOTE=dad911;10489881

awg 12 wire, ground, neutral (white) and black. Breaker should probably be GFI, single pole for 110 volt.

[/QUOTE]

Danger Will Robinson! Danger.

30 A service requires 10 AWG wire. 12 AWG is only good for 20A.

Yep confirmed the trailer is 110v 30 amp only. It has a breaker panel inside for the various appliances. The connection is an outside 30 amp cord about 10' long that looks like this

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560395054.jpg

Damn mark, no more late night electric, edited, of course 10 awg.

Again I have to say PPOT is awesome!

Yes, the quad can be changed with a 15 tandem, like the ones in the lower panel, then a single 30 will fit in the remaining slot.

This is what I bought from local shop. Yep 50', was thinking I would trench out to a post and box. Now wanting an easier path, will replace with shorter length to cover the 2-3' the box will be mounted under the panel on my stucco home.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560395596.jpg

I changed mine. I got a permit (homeowners can do electrical in my state), called the power company. They came and cut the wires (on my roof, which were live throughout the operation) and pulled the meter. I changed the box, called for the inspection, got the sticker, called the power company.....back in business. New ground rods were necessary. Installation was to code.

I had an advantage. I have access to electrical inspectors at work.

I wouldn't use that or bury it.

You don't want to use that existing wire and install a plug next to the panel and just plug that sucker in and be done with it?

Return the wire. Home depot has #10 watertite whips, flexible.
Local supply house should have also. Typically used for connection between AC and disconnect.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/AFC-Cable-Systems-Liquidtite-10-3-x-6-ft-AC-Whip-8015-HD/202286686

You probably need a little more wire in the panel, so unscrew one end of whip, shorten tubing, screw it back on.

Edit: technically you need black,white,green for 110. Either pick up a few feet of white and feed it through, or wrap white electrical tape around both ends of the red or black, and use it for the neutral.

Honestly, you don't have enough electrical knowledge to do this. However, if you do, keep us posted of your every move. Type NM-B cable is only to be used inside covered walls, attics and under house crawl space and should never be exposed to sunlight.

If you bury something, it has to be buried deep, even in conduit. Local codes require at least 24" and it has to be rated for direct burial, or Type THWN wire, 10 ga. for 30 amps and not a long run. If you power up a panel near the trailer, that becomes a sub panel and needs 2 10 foot ground rods and the neutral buss isolated. Since the trailer has it's own distribution, run a big ass outdoor rated extension cord from a receptacle attached to your house. Do not bury the cord.

Added a word. +1.

Agreed, I am not going to bury anything. I will mount the 30 amp receptacle to the side of my stucco home, under the main panel. Connect that to my trailer with a "big ass outdoor rated extension cord".

Zeke, you're right, I don't have enough knowledge yet. So far I have learned that I need to go to a single pole 30 amp breaker to drive the new receptacle, and a 15 amp double pole to replace the quad unit I have there now. Nothing will be started until I turn off my 125 amp main breaker in the middle of the panel...I understand the feed from the street will still be hot. I'm just swapping out a 4 pole 30/15 breaker for a single pole and double pole and running new wire from a knockout on bottom the panel. Will return my previous purchases and go with the watertight dad911 linked. Sounds pretty straight forward given a generous amount of respect and prudence.

I won't attempt any of this until I have researched more. Hell, it took me almost 2 weeks to figure out and execute my trailer positioning.

It's not rocket science. A competent helper is all you need. Get the right material, wire it correctly (to code), inspect it, then go live.

On my shopping list for this weekend.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AFC-Cable-Systems-Liquidtite-10-3-x-6-ft-AC-Whip-8015-HD/202286686

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560459892.jpg

Big ass outdoor extension cord for 30 amp RV service from Amazon.

And this one

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560460145.jpg

??

That's 2 pole, for 15a 220.

You want a 15A tandem. Single pole. Looks like the 20 amp ones towards the bottom of the panel. I'm not sure homeline is compatible with square D. It will typically say on the panel which breakers you can use.