How Brakes Work - HowStuffWorks

Master cylinders need to be paired/matched to the various calipers/wheel cylinders to optimize the way the brakes work.

Wrong sized master cylinders may require a v--e--r--y long pedal travel to get the brakes fully applied. Or how about a pedal that's rock that is modulated via pressure rather than travel.

The master cylinder has a piston inside the cylinder. The size of the piston/cylinder needs to be matched to the combined sizes of the other "pistons" at the 4 wheels. Also, if you're upgrading, you may as well go for a split system for safety.

Fix the brakes, put a 5.0 in it with some go-fast parts, weld the trunk up, some decent wheels with re-arched rear springs it would be OK.

rjp

Dual Master Cylinder Conversion for 1964-1966 Mustangs | Mustang Tech Articles | CJ Pony Parts

$16 for steel lines, $45 for the MC.

Price it yourself.

WTF?

Master Power BM1520K Power Brake Conversion Kit Disc 1965-1966

$473... but doubtful it will clear the valve covers. it would if it had a 5.0.


rjp

I love the teflon tape on the fuel lines with Aluminum fittings going into brass. WTF.


(Hint- Teflon tape on fuel will just disintegrate- that's why they have nipples on those fittings or pipe threads, and aluminum and brass= corrosion. )

right behind the seat are the passive xovers for the stereo speakers- screwed to some insulation. LOL. Yuck.

EDIT- anyone figure out how the battery is held down- Hot glue maybe?

(It's definitely not shielded in a box like it should be)http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450637481.jpg

How can you tell it has no heat?

No coolant lines to firewall. only AC lines. There is a mini radiator behind dash that has to be plumbed into the cooling system in series for that to work.

There will be four lines if that's the case. There's only two and an A/C compressor. So, AC only

rjp

Randy-I see a j-hook laying on the left side of the battery. Maybe they left the other bits off when the pic was taken. It should still be in an approved battery box.

Not familiar with LS plumbing, but I see what might be heater hoses below the pulleys. Where they would enter the firewall can't be seen in these pix.
If you were looking for a project, this car would be a good start. You could remove the mismatched parts, sell them and replace with some better suited for the car. I might give 15k for it, but no more.

Oe spot should be upper passenger side high. Thy smoothed the firewall

Too many things to list.

No thank you.

Would need to have something more substantial then a stock ls1. That's a back yard tree mechanic build.

IMO, if it's not a fastback, run!!! These cars can be had for pennies on craigslist.

It's been resto-muddled :( .

Coupes are super when really done well!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450700217.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450700256.jpg

I really like resto-mods, but no way on this one. Weird combination of components, not much function, too much tacky bling. A friend of mine just sold a matching numbers 1969 Mach 1 for $34k. It had the original 351 fully built, 4-speed manual rebuilt, full suspension, vintage air, big brakes, show quality paint job in the original color, tasteful wheels, etc. So this car for $25k is just silly.

Well that's just a great big bucket of NOPE!

Not wanting to be a contrarian, but it seems the Mustvette is getting a bad rap for stuff that was factory 911 setup.

The 911 battery is not in a box, and it is 1" away from the tank. In the crush zone. Hot lead 1" from the fender. It's packed real tight in there.

Why is a box needed for a battery mounted in a more isolated space?

I agree a cover on the tank would be good. Does the fine German grey felt count as an effective cover?

Maybe there is a little aluminum plate clamping the battery, just like the 911?

My point being, look in the front of a 911. Electrical fuse panel, heater and air ducts, switches, radio, gages, unboxed battery, uncovered fuel tank all together. In the front. It's a bit messy too.

Covered up by a cardboard panel and felt.

SBF engine parts are slightly more expensive than SBC parts, that said, the SBC install would be , I think, a PITA. Headers for the SBF that was made for the hole took me3-4 days of heatin' & beatin' to get in there......down the line they interfered with the clutch linkage......get out the heat & hammer......this was all stuff manufactured to fit. Them trick heads got me, I think. The 331 preformed as well as a 331 Chebbie woulda.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450712911.jpg
The dry cell battery went into the original spot (lower RT corner)
The car handled well but rode like S*** in back. My conclusion was there was nothing more to be done with them leaf springs & solid axle.

This thread demonstrates the problem with resto-mods: they are done to the likes of the owner, which is a very personal thing.
A person customizes the vehicle to his taste but very few others like it because it isn't to their tastes.

So the only way they'll buy it is if they get it so cheeeep it leaves room for them to CHANGE it to suite their tastes.
And the circle continues.

Not sure where you heard that but you have been misinformed.
PTFE tape will not disintegrate because of contact with fuel. Any fuel this side of hydrazine.
Teflon is one of the most chemical-resistant materials known to man.
It is good in that application to nearly 500 degrees F.
And using it between the brass and aluminium is perfectly acceptable, better in fact than the more common use of stainless steel to aluminium.


BUT ..... there is a problem with Teflon tape and a reason it is not allowed in my shops and why I recommend others do not use it either:
When used to seal threads, the tape gets cut into tiny slivers. They fill the voids in the threads and do the actual sealing. But when you take apart the connection it is nearly impossible to get ALL of those tape slivers out of there and they can contaminate the system.

I prefer using Teflon-based pipe dope. It is basically Teflon powder encapsulated into a thick pipe dope.
When applied properly (very thin) it seals as well or better than tape and it is less prone to contamination to clogging hydraulic systems.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1450716039.jpg


But if a person does the 4 wrap thing with tape or piles the dope on 1/16" thick, there's no helping them.