remove the hose from the valve to the toilet, then you'll know if the leak is at the compression fitting on the valve or from the tank. The leak should show up pretty quickly.

Ok, just shut the valve off at the wall and removed the hose that comes from the tank. I'll see how long it takes the towel to get wet, but I really think it's wet behind the valve. How to fix that? It has to be the valve connection to the copper pipe. The valve is new, so I have to think the 1/4 turn shut off feature is perfect. I've had those fail before, but it was after many years of super hard water abuse.

That fitting should not have teflon tape on it. On the other hand, the teflon tape shouldn't hurt anything either.

Sweating means soldering.

I just removed that teflon tape from the plastic-metal end. I've replaced several of these and never seen one that was soldered. Doesn't that make it such that it always has to be replaced if there's any issue? If pipe compound doesn't do it, I'm gonna be worried. What else can I do here?

That is a compression fitting on both ends?

Put some pipe compound on the leaky side, like Loctite 567.

Not on the threads, on the ferrule and the pipe.

Sweating means using solder to seal the joint or fitting.

How to Sweat Copper Pipes and Fittings | PlanItDIY


What you have is a compression fitting. They work fine, as long as you dont over tighten them. If you did, for $5 try a new one. Looks like you dont have much room but try and make sure the copper ring is in a different place than before.

You can remove that echelon if you need more room and just mud around where the pipes comes out of the wall.

If it is leaking behind the wall, your going to have to chip the drywall away from around that pipe and have a look.

You could also solder to the 1/2 pipe coming from the wall...

Getting the old ferrule off was a real task. I had to Dremel off the nut first to then get to the ferrule to Dremel it off. I really don't want to do that again and risk slicing into the pipe, which would be disastrous. I think I'm gonna go with pipe compound.

1990c4s is correct. U have a compression fitting on both ends. You need a fitting that has compression coming out of the wall (connects to the pipe)and a the correct threads for that hose. THEY ARE DIFFERENT.

Are you saying I have the wrong parts? They match the old parts perfectly. The way this connects to the pipe in the wall is with the large nut and ferrule. What else is there?

Give me a second

The compression valve come in 2 styles
Compression on both sides
Compression on one side(compression from the pipe) and a hose barb on the other.

Since you have used pipe dope on your hose is because those are compression threads and not the correct threads for that hose.

I'm looking for pics on the net

The hose fits on that valve perfectly. All threads match and feel right. And the leak isn't at the hose anyway. The leak is where the valve connects to the copper pipe.

I'm guessing the OD of copper pipe is deformed enough that the compression fitting isn't sealing. Shark bite makes a fitting that may seal better.
SharkBite 1/2 in. Chrome-Plated Brass Push-to-Connect x 3/8 in. O.D. Compression Quarter-Turn Angle Stop Valve-23036-0000LF - The Home Depot

OK, Than your going to have to take off the valve and and try again.
You might need another ferule and or shorten the pipe. It has worked for me lots of times, to just move the ferule (closer to the end by a small amount) then retighten

Here are some pics
https://www.google.com/search?q=quarter+turn+valve+home+depot&espv=2&biw= 1137&bih=725&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEw jw9pTRxInMAhXLSyYKHU2PAvkQ_AUIBygC&dpr=0.9#tbm=isc h&q=how+does+a+compression+fitting+work&imgrc=_

Dad911 makes a great suggestion. Those types of fitting have saved me lots of times when it too inconvenient to sweat a pipe.

Ok, thanks. I'll see if I can find that SharkBite one. Should I also get some pipe compound since I'm going to have it all apart again?

with the valve Dad911 suggested you wont need it. Please check inside the hose to see if the threads are not damaged. You should NOT need pipe dope on those threads anyway cause there is a rubber washer in there that presses against the valve to prevent leaks

Yeah, the hose is not the issue. No leak there. The leak is coming from metal on metal, likely the ferrule on the copper pipe.

That hose should only be hand tightened, thats why they are not made to put a wrench on it. When you go back to the store, take the hose with you and when you find the click-on valve, check to see if your hose screws on with ease

Yea, I hear you about the hose not leaking now but sometimes after I have taken them apart, when its time to put them back, a new leak has formed.

If I'm being redundant is because someone else is going to read this thread months from now and I wanted to be clear for that person whom has never done any of this before

The shark bites are fantastic. Never had a leak with 2 homes and all new ones installed at all toilets. Key is to clean copper really well, slide shark on. Need to make sure you have enough pipe sticking out of wall.

They come in compression and NPT I believe?? I just have to be standing in the isle and match up my hoses to fittings.

Sweating on is a talent. Have had that fail in a house, because of lazy sub's during the build process.

The sharks are fantastic. They combine an o-ring and compression. I do all my own plumbing with them. So far so good.


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I'm actually pretty good at sweating fittings, used to be part of my job (+20 years ago) and have changed out several pipes at my house... however when I went to change out the main water valve on the front of my house (where it enters the house) when I shut the main off at the street (which requires the strength of a water buffalo... almost had an aneurysm fighting with that ancient crusty thing) it didn't shut off the flow 100% and the constant minuscule drip made it impossible to sweat. In desperation I tried one of shark bite fitting and it has held so far.
I don't go for gadget like that but it has been months and it is still holding.
However last visit to Home Depot I didn't see them on the shelf.

What am I doing wrong with this toilet install?
 

Yeah, Lowes has a different brand name and I have noticed them missing at HD.... But the black helicopter in me says the Plumbers Union has something to do with that :-)


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Lowe's had the Shark Bites, but the guy there said I just needed to reinstall what I had correctly with a new ferrule and pipe sealant. So far it seems to have worked. I was really worried about having deformed the copper pipe too much. And the way I've done it in the past was to put the large nut on the pipe, then the ferrule and then the valve. The guy at Lowe's said to smear the pipe sealant inside and on the outer threads of the valve, put the ferrule inside the nut and then assemble it all loosely before pushing onto the copper pipe. That seems to have worked. Will keep an eye on it for a while. What a pain in the ass this has been. I've spent as much money on gas, running back and forth to Lowe's and Ace as I have on the parts I bought there.

The threads should never see water...but the sealant won't hurt anything.

Not to change the subject, but if this ever happens to anyone reading this, the solution is to wad up a piece of Wonder Bread (or similar) and shove it up the line. It will stop the drip long enough for you to sweat the fitting and the bread piece will eventually dissolve leaving no trace behind.

An old timer taught me that trick after I had struggled with the very same issue you describe.

You should always replace the ferrel, you can buy a puller that will pull the old one off. Most people overtighten and deform the copper.You should not use teflon or plumbers putty on this connection... The tank bolts on the bowl, did you install the bowl seal properly? If a tile floor you might need 2 wax rings, 1 thick one with a horn, and thin one . Most people screw plumbing up by over tightening.....relax. and braided lines are superior,just make sure when you tighten the nuts, you do not allow the hose to twist, it will set up a stressor in the line

Cool trick, hadn't learned of that before. I always rolled up a paper towel and snaked it up to the moisture, and then did a speed job before the drips caught up. Bread would be less stressful.

Have you tried drinking more? I always find that things get more level with the more beer consumed. The next day.. not so much but at the time...

BTW, MikeSid made a great suggestion. I've used that trick a few times.

And Rick, if you do it right there should be no thread sealant needed. A ferule fitting should seal up without any other sealant. I have never used any sealant on a ferule type fitting.

I have ferrule / compression fittings on my surge tank fuel system. The only thing I used was a little oil on the threads to keep things from galling. This is different metals with the toilet and so far less likely to gall.