What am I doing wrong with this toilet install?
 

It was a pretty easy job, but it just doesn't feel secure and the tank feels like it's leaning forward, like it needs to be secured to the wall or something. The wax ring that came with it was too thin, so the bowl was resting on the tile without the ring making contact. So I stack another one on there, one without a flange, and that seemed to work. Though the bowl still feels a little wobbly. I don't want to cinch down those wing nuts anymore, as they feel like they're gonna bend the washers or crack the porcelain.

The tank appears to sit on top of the large gasket that goes on the bottom of it and on top of the bowl. I've cinched those wing nuts down very tight and the tank really leans forward, such that even pressing one of the flush buttons makes it wobble. What am I'm doing wrong here? Hard to see in this photo. I'm wondering if I need to redo the tank, such that it leans farther back on the gasket before cinching down the bolts.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1460335511.jpg

Seems like the two rings are now a bit too thick and the toilet isn't making contact with the floor. Did you sit on the toilet to compress the rings? That would explain the leaning forward -- not enough pressure on the tank.

Oh yes, I sat on it and wiggles it all until it felt like all of the bowl was touching tile. Even so, wouldn't it settle and then I'd just need to retighten the wing nuts?

Have someone sit on it as you tighten them down......Possibility of cracking the base

Is the tank on backwards? Just pulling ideas outa my butt.

Go buy some plastic shims and shim the uneven floor then tighten bolts. Do not use wood or metal shims. Caulk around the bast with Polyseamseal.

U shouldn't be sitting on the toilette when you are installing it. That comes afterwards.

I level the rim before putting on the seat, grout base to tile. Should feel the wax compress, or the wax seal isn't thick enough. Then level the tank top.

It's been a while, but it seems to me that the tanks, because they have the rubber gasket, aren't necessarily self aligning/levelling. Loosen the 2 tank nuts, tilt the tank back, then tighten it back up.

As far as the toilet on the tile/seal, did it sit flat without all of the stuff? Is it possible that the tile isn't flat?

For cleaning and neatness, if the toilet feels pretty solid, but not completely, run some caulk around the bottom, but not all of the way around. Leave the back open. You want to know if you have a leak under the toilet, so you need some way for the water to leak out if you do, but the caulk will make it easier to clean around the front edge, and it will sort of glue the thing down and make it more stable.

Stop trying to dance on the toilet. No fancy positions or moving around.

Put a level across the top of the bowl in a few directions, that will tell you where to shim with plastic.

That was my first thought.

No, tank is not backwards, as the back side of it has less glaze on it and the hose connection wouldn't reach if reverse. I sat on it and wiggled it some more and, sure enough, the mounting bolts loosened up a lot. So that's all level now, but the tank is still leaning forward. I found some rubber shims from the old tank that fit perfectly under the new tank and that made it better. But more shimming is needed. No shims came with the new toilets.

On to the second toilet. I was all set to install the hose connection and the old hose from the wall cracked. Off to Lowe's before they closed, figured, as long as I have to shut the water to the house off, I might as well replace them both, as well as switch to 1/4 turn valves. I'll button this up after dinner. Lot of fun today.

Getting new supply hoses would be the best investment you could make - one of those little suckers lets go when you're not home and you're in floodsville!

I think I will get new ones this week for my 2 toilets just as an inexpensive precaution....

Take it back and get a one piece toilet?

This

Had to do that at my parents' house when they put in tile. Linoleum was more forgiving.

Wouldn't you know it, I got the wrong 1/4 turn valve and, after dinner, went to install it, first turning off the water. Then the old one broke coming off, the new one didn't fit and all the hardware stores were closed. Wal-Mart didn't have it. I was able to get the old one back on and cinched down to keep it only to a very slow drip with the water back on. I'll get the right ones tomorrow morning. Pain in the ass.

No pun intended?

I HATE plumbing. I hooked up an outdoor sink last weekend. Drain was PITA to put together, covering an angle and some longer distance. All buttoned up, tight no leaks - happy DIY plumber ... This weekend - leaking like a sieve. WTF?

Of course I don't have a choice. A good plumber charges major bucks. It is worth my time (I usually need $50 / h for something I don't enjoy to not farm it out).

I installed a costco water saver toiled for $85 a year ago. That went well. Full refund by the water company.

G

It's a very strange top on that bog (bog is local jargon for a toilet) If that odd top wasn't on it the seat would stay up. Is there any flexibility in moving the toilet itself forward.

I know it's a sh it (ha ha ha) of a job installing toilets but I've installed lots of them so I'm reasonably educated on the subject.

Edit: don't do the bolts up too tight as the stuff breaks easily So the toilet can't com further forward to make the connection between tank and toilet fit better?

You should pull the tank and look at the big foam gasket. If done right, the top should seat correctly.

Seconded on no shims to attach tank to base. It does require proper alignment when you tighten. Also, tighten each a few turns at a time. If you tighten one too much without tending to the others then the tank can become crooked. Apply appropriate pressure with your hand inside the tank at the bottom to compress the tank to base gasket for the final few turns. The gasket should be completely compressed and tank should contact base securely and completely. The tank is not tight enough if still wobbly or crooked. If crooked, start over.

The base to floor is a different matter. Make sure the flange in the floor isn't contacting the base. The wax seal should span the gap. I recommend the thicker wax ring for a buck more than the thinner. If the floor isn't level then I second the caulk method above.

ZERO clue:

but i do notice the lack of a professional plumber ;)

Ah yes, the Bumper Dumper.

Just finished replacing all the tank hoses and pipe couplings on the walls. Pain in the butt, but should be good for a long time now.

I'm not a plumber but I have installed lots of toilets (I own rentals).

No shims between the bowl and the tank. If you did shim it too much, water will come rushing out when you flush. There are thicker gaskets for different brands but they all have the same diameter.


There are plastic shims that go beneath the bowl and the floor, if your floor is not level. Use them sparingly, cut off the part that sticks out and then caulk. Using a level will of course be helpful.

You are going to have to sit on the toilet in order to set the wax ring. A taller than needed ring is better than not tall enough. I always go with the taller ring as it cuts out the guessing game.

I have installed toilets and the tank just seems to be tilted, it bothered me but after playing with them, I let them be.

Shim the floor, dont just crank the bolts down or you will break it. You can shim the tank as well. Some kits come with tank shims. They are usually much smaller and thicker than the plastic floor shims. They look sort of like half a cloths pin clip (the old wood kind).

Ok, new issue. The water supply to one toilet is leaking at the wall. I replaced the coupling on the copper pipe in the wall and replaced hose to the tank. I used teflon tape. I thought I had it pretty snug, but when I turned the water to the house back on, it was spraying. I tightened it a lot more, to the point that I thought I was going to break it. That appeared to stop it. Since it was wet all around from the spray, I put a folded towel underneath it. I checked it a few times and the towel kept getting more damp. Now it's pretty wet, but I can't even notice a drip from the joint. Do I just cinch it down some more and hope that stops it? Or do I pull it apart, dry it all off and cover with pipe dope before reattaching? Or just wrap it in pipe putty?

The metal braided supply lines should be installed without Teflon tape. They have a rubber washer seal up inside. Tape could be fouling the seal there. Disconnect, clean out tape and inspected the rubber seal.

I didn't use metal braided hoses and I only used teflon tape on the joint from the copper pipe in the wall to the 1/4 turn valve.

Have a pic of the copper pipe coming out of the wall? I prefer to sweat those connections in.

Will get one in a bit.

I just swapped the towel out and it was pretty wet, but I can't feel any wetness in front of or at the joint. When I pulled on the pipe, I feel like the wetness is behind the joint and wall cover. But that doesn't make sense. Maybe the water is flowing backwards due to an almost invisible down angle and then running down the wall.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1460472460.jpg

I quit using teflon tape and havent had an issue with pipe joint compound instead. Take off your hose and see if it still leaks.

So you've been using the pipe joint compound with success?

100% Last time I used teflon tape was on a dishwasher that wouldnt stop leaking. Brushed on a little compound and leaving it for a day or so in the middle of the kitchen no leaks. Havent looked back, no more teflon here.

I can't turn off the water to the house for half a day. I work from home and need to go to the bathroom and wash hands once in a while. How long does it take for pipe dope to cure before you can reconnect it? The only stuff I have is for PVC, so I'll have to run to Lowe's again.

What am I doing wrong with this toilet install?
 

I always use braided steel lines. Always, always.

There are two different type of flanges on the valve and two different types of hoses. You cannot mix them up. I cannot recall the names, but you will see them standing in Lowes.

On my new to me house, I replaced all fittings and line when I first moved in. Used 1/4 turn shark fittings and new lines. Tank alignments is key with flushing quality. One piece helps, but the 3 bolt tank pattern on most higher end brand solves that as well. I use only the best reusable high end rings that are silicone and wax. I also buy flange repair kits and replace the flanges. The new ones are super strong and you can really get it tight and level.

Good luck. No fun job and the problem is, even plumbers do it wrong! Takes lots of effort and patience to get it right. Taking the throne seriously is important.


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I have always used steel braided lines in the past, but the guy at Lowes said these hoses were just as good. I think the leak is where the 1/4 turn valve connects to the copper pipe, so that's all metal. How much more can I tighten that without breaking it? I can probably get it tighter, but it feels like that's gonna be too tight.

Teflon on plastic is a no-no. I would recommend the same as my previous post. The copper pipe from the wall I would like to know more about. Did you use shark on there or was the male connection already sweated on?

I don't know what sweating is. This is the 1/4 turn valve I put on the copper pipe coming from the wall.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1460474933.jpg