Yea, I hear you about the hose not leaking now but sometimes after I have taken them apart, when its time to put them back, a new leak has formed.

If I'm being redundant is because someone else is going to read this thread months from now and I wanted to be clear for that person whom has never done any of this before

The shark bites are fantastic. Never had a leak with 2 homes and all new ones installed at all toilets. Key is to clean copper really well, slide shark on. Need to make sure you have enough pipe sticking out of wall.

They come in compression and NPT I believe?? I just have to be standing in the isle and match up my hoses to fittings.

Sweating on is a talent. Have had that fail in a house, because of lazy sub's during the build process.

The sharks are fantastic. They combine an o-ring and compression. I do all my own plumbing with them. So far so good.


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I'm actually pretty good at sweating fittings, used to be part of my job (+20 years ago) and have changed out several pipes at my house... however when I went to change out the main water valve on the front of my house (where it enters the house) when I shut the main off at the street (which requires the strength of a water buffalo... almost had an aneurysm fighting with that ancient crusty thing) it didn't shut off the flow 100% and the constant minuscule drip made it impossible to sweat. In desperation I tried one of shark bite fitting and it has held so far.
I don't go for gadget like that but it has been months and it is still holding.
However last visit to Home Depot I didn't see them on the shelf.

What am I doing wrong with this toilet install?
 

Yeah, Lowes has a different brand name and I have noticed them missing at HD.... But the black helicopter in me says the Plumbers Union has something to do with that :-)


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Lowe's had the Shark Bites, but the guy there said I just needed to reinstall what I had correctly with a new ferrule and pipe sealant. So far it seems to have worked. I was really worried about having deformed the copper pipe too much. And the way I've done it in the past was to put the large nut on the pipe, then the ferrule and then the valve. The guy at Lowe's said to smear the pipe sealant inside and on the outer threads of the valve, put the ferrule inside the nut and then assemble it all loosely before pushing onto the copper pipe. That seems to have worked. Will keep an eye on it for a while. What a pain in the ass this has been. I've spent as much money on gas, running back and forth to Lowe's and Ace as I have on the parts I bought there.

The threads should never see water...but the sealant won't hurt anything.

Not to change the subject, but if this ever happens to anyone reading this, the solution is to wad up a piece of Wonder Bread (or similar) and shove it up the line. It will stop the drip long enough for you to sweat the fitting and the bread piece will eventually dissolve leaving no trace behind.

An old timer taught me that trick after I had struggled with the very same issue you describe.

You should always replace the ferrel, you can buy a puller that will pull the old one off. Most people overtighten and deform the copper.You should not use teflon or plumbers putty on this connection... The tank bolts on the bowl, did you install the bowl seal properly? If a tile floor you might need 2 wax rings, 1 thick one with a horn, and thin one . Most people screw plumbing up by over tightening.....relax. and braided lines are superior,just make sure when you tighten the nuts, you do not allow the hose to twist, it will set up a stressor in the line

Cool trick, hadn't learned of that before. I always rolled up a paper towel and snaked it up to the moisture, and then did a speed job before the drips caught up. Bread would be less stressful.

Have you tried drinking more? I always find that things get more level with the more beer consumed. The next day.. not so much but at the time...

BTW, MikeSid made a great suggestion. I've used that trick a few times.

And Rick, if you do it right there should be no thread sealant needed. A ferule fitting should seal up without any other sealant. I have never used any sealant on a ferule type fitting.

I have ferrule / compression fittings on my surge tank fuel system. The only thing I used was a little oil on the threads to keep things from galling. This is different metals with the toilet and so far less likely to gall.