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Repairs to porch steps
It is spring, and a (not so young) man's fancy turns to . . . home fix-it projects.
Yes, the joys of home ownership. This week, my job is to fix wood rot in our front porch stairs and ledges. Here is a photo. ![]() As you can see, I have 1. Rotting wood stair treads. 2. The cap of the pedestal (that the Fu Dog is sitting on) is looking bad, it isn't rotting but will be in a couple more years. 3. Some rot in one of the vertical facing boards at the corner of the pedestal. For #1: each tread measures 6' x 12" x 1.5". Would you guys recommend just getting some 2"x12" pressure treated lumber, and painting with non-skid stair paint? Or would you use Trex, which comes in 3/4" x 11.25" (so would need a filler strip at the back of the tread, that I'd cover with the molding)?. Does Trex take paint well? For #2: each wood cap measures 25" x 36" x 1 5/8" and I have two, one on each side of the stairs. Wife wants these covered in sheet copper. 24 ga (0.0216") roofing copper is available here in 3' x 8' sheets. I was thinking I could buy a sheet, cut to size with snips, construction glue to top of cap, hammer fold it around the lip of the wood cap, screw the edges to the underside of the lip. Make sense? For #3: I don't think I have any real question here. Just gonna cut the appropriate size piece and replace, then paint. By the way, I realize the whole house needs a paint job, which we will put off for one more year. Any words of experience, wisdom, caution, etc would be appreciated. This!
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? Last edited by jyl; 04-27-2016 at 03:43 PM.. |
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Just call "This Old House" and have Tommy and the boys fix it for ya!
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
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Sorry, I know that wasn't what you were looking for.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
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Pressure treated is the worst lumber. Maybe you can see what is available at your local do it yourself store? I think a good table saw if you don't have one, will be in use in your near future.
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: cascade mtns,WA.
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jyl, go down to the pearl district and look at the wood decking on the sidewalk, it is ipe wood. it will outlast you.
Ipe is rot resistant, common name is ironwood. Do your stringers in treated wood and ipe for the stair treads, done.
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gatotom 76-911s-sold went to motherland 13-A4 2.0T Quattro S 96-Chev 1500 4x4 88 Sabre 38 mk 2 sailboat |
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And two 6" boards with a 3/8" gap between vs a 12" board.
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Okay, ipe or similar hardwood. I have a nice table saw!
Any thoughts on the copper? Anyone have experience working 24 ga copper sheet?
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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I've done this about 4 different ways and I will tell you where I finally landed after about 15 years of continual maintenance.
Concrete. Have the stairs formed and placed in concrete. You will be happier and they will look nicer year after year. Consider where you live. A painted floor service is not your friend. Even the hardest, old school lead based paint would have a hard time keeping up with rain and foot traffic. As for Ipe, I have that on my back deck. It will outlast you, but it will require regular annual maintenance. I also don't think split stair treads are architecturally appropriate for a front porch. And with a solid Ipe tread, it looks nice, but you still have the maintenance. Ipe will also likely be more expensive than concrete. And it's not like working with normal wood. Serious effort (or a bow wrench) will be required to straighten pieces. And you'll spend a lot on stainless fasteners. As for the boxes/ledges. I have similar. The tops, if wood, will always rot. The copper idea would work, but don't discount the possibility of moisture wicking up under there. I ultimately ordered a 4" x 18" Glulam and cut tops for my boxes/ledges. It paints up nicely, adds some heft to the design/look, and won't rot through for a few dozen years. My only other suggestion would be perhaps a chunck of granite or marble for the tops of the boxes/ledges. I considered that and would do it. The Glulam was just easier to work with.
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"Rust never sleeps" |
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Granite, wrapped in copper! No rot!
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"I would be a tone-deaf heathen if I didn't call the engine astounding. If it had been invented solely to make noise, there would be shrines to it in Rome" |
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: southern California
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Concrete and be done with it forever
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Budget and patience didn't extend to pouring concrete stairs. And I couldn't find ipe at the local lumber place. Plenty of other hardwoods. But in the end I used 2 x 6 decking cedar, inexpensive and if it works for decks, I figure it will last until I retire and have time to redo these steps, or more likely downsize.
I left a 1/4" gap for water to drain, between the tread boards (had a handy drill bit with a 1/4" shank to use as a spacer) and at the ends of the boards. Sistered the stringers where they rest on the porch foundation. Covered the horizontal surfaces of the stringers with thick plastic sheeting. More black plastic stapled to the ledger board at the porch. Coated decking screws with star drive heads. I have yet to cut and install risers and the molding where the riser and tread upper surface meet. I'll leave a 1/4" gap under the riser and molding, for water to drain. Basically I want water to drain off the treads as fast as possible, and then to hit only plastic sheeting until reaching the dirt. I'll paint and apply strips of non-skid tape to cover the screws. The old stairs were single pieces of solid 2 x 12, with no gaps anywhere, and water pooled during every rain, meaning half the year. They started rotting, and the screws were rusted out, in less than 15 years. If my new stairs can last 20 years, I'll be more than satisfied. I'm starting to realize that exposed wood in this climate is a consumable. Well, except the ipe stuff I guess.
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? Last edited by jyl; 04-28-2016 at 06:55 PM.. |
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The Unsettler
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This is why I call it homoanership.
I love me some old homes with character but after having my last two homes be brand new builds it's hard to think about something vintage again.
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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I've been amazingly lucky with this house. 105 year old house, lived here 10 years, total spending on fixing broken things has totaled about $9000. $5000 of that was a new range, $2000 was a new refrigerator, so aside from splurging on appliances, I've only spent about $2000!
My luck is about to end, because the house needs painting and that will be $10000-15000 is my guess. But hey, I don't need a $20000 sewer line, so I feel rich!
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? |
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Location: Los Angeles
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I am a little late to this. Been busy busting my chops a little.
I would have to talk you out of the plastic idea in an environment like you have up there. Lumber's ok if it gets wet, but that plastic may trap moisture and does not allow the lumber to dry or stay damp unnecessary. The more it air dries the better for the lumber. the plastic will work great the first year or two, then it will deteriorate thus allowing small amount of water penetration. This is like you out riding in a plastic rain cape but you have to wear it all day long until your body dries on its own with the plastic cape on. Old houses are great but they need maintenance like an old air cool 911. For some people, they go for the gusto and rebuild the hot motor (while you are in there) and be done with it. I am not sure about the concrete if that's going to work with what you have there? It has to match the house, aesthetics is important here for a historical home. Who knows, it might work very well but from the point of longevity and maintenance free, you can't beat it. Cedar will work and just paint it. Ipe is a great material, but will it match the house but it can always be painted to match. Normally its 1" to 1 1/4" thick. It might look off due to its thickness. Feeling rich? Start tearing into the home. You will always find something isn't "right" or sub- standard real fast. Old house in rainy climate? There will be something. Hey, what you don't see, and if its up and working like it should without issues, worry about it when the times comes. Enjoy the home. Its look like a beautiful home you have there. |
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Well, i can remove the plastic easy enough - that's why I use star drive screws, and did I mention how much I hate Phillips screws.
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Now in 993 land ...
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Wtf? Where is the "after" pic???
G |
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Still in progress!. And it started raining when I was working so no time to take pictures. Yup, that's life in the PNW. It really sucks here. Californians stay away!
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? |
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Now in 993 land ...
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Haha! Good excuse to slack off! I had thoughts about PNW recently ... i may join you one day!
![]() Progress pics are good too BTW! G |
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We will stay only if you tell them to stay away from CA., especially Socal. Let em' go up to Nor Cal. George don't mind.
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