Tell Me About the Audi A4...
 

May have the opportunity to get a 2006 with 130K on it. What should I look for in terns of issues?

That model is used a lot by Uber drivers here in the UK, and its sisster under the skin Skoda Octavia is used by many taxi drivers; they must think they are dependable.

Subscribed...I've been sort of looking at them...

DO NOT, I REPEAST DO NOT buy the 1.8 model. That engine is plagued with severe issues. I do not know when they moved to the 2.0, but the 1.8 is horrible due to oil coking problems.

I have a 2005 1.8T wagon to beat on in the winters. Love it. Super high maintenance car and quite complex compared to others at the time. Change the oil frequently and there will be no sludge issues (at least on mine anyways). 2006 is very similar and has the 2.0T that is a better engine from what I've heard. Get the special expensive Ross-Tech cable to diagnose and clear codes that you WILL be having. See if the belts/WP/Thermostat have been done. Every ~100k miles you'll have to do this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1469106889.jpg

I see a collection of DIY articles on the Audi a4 being published in the future....

I had a 2006 A3 w/ 2.0. no issues and traded it in at 170k miles.

I would pass. Nice car that's entering a very expensive stage of it's life

Run away

hmn an a4: is like a decent car, only worse

Not sure if I want the text to be green or not

I love Audis, but buying a 10 y old Audi with high miles is asking for trouble. Is it quattro at leat ? Otherwise if FWD you might as well buy a passat ;-(

Risk reward ratio seems way out of whack.

Kinda like getting offered a great job on the Titanic no?

It's like this IMHO. You can buy and drive some mundane reliable appliance, or something more entertaining that requires occasional work.


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I am due (2nd time) on my 2003 Passat 1.8L for the water pump/timing belt at 185k miles.

That whole front end thing tear out is sissy work (very, very do-able if time is not an issue). On the up side, after the sissy grunt work, you have outstanding access. I'll take that over tearing your forearms up on a 1.8L Turbo Beetle for the same job.

Buy the metal water pump from ECS Tuning. It ain't the timing belt that will go.

Now, coking. Yes, Sir. That probably will happen.

Switch to a heavier oil and at every oil change use a "flush" for a few minutes to start to break down the crud.

I have 30k of bonus miles since my first oil starvation warning.

When I say switch to a heavier oil, I mean like what you would use in your early 80's 911. Castrol 30W-50.

This is not based on science, it's based on experience.

+1

Remember this when you are in the trunk pulling the fuel pump because it crapped out. It will.

DO NOT buy the el-cheapo for $57.95. Buy the $200+ unit and be done with it for a while.

Also, you do not have to buy the Ross Tech diagnostic unit. You can, and it will serve you well.

There are $30 VW/Audi/Scoda code readers on ebay.

They point you in the right direction and have way more latitude than the basic OBD readers. ABS included.

Get used to the check engine light. Lot's of coolant temp sensor codes which include the thermostat.

Everything you always wanted to know about Direct Injection but didn't have the wallet to ask!

Is Carbon Buildup a Problem With Direct-Injection Engines? » AutoGuide.com News

Is the 1.8L coking issue related to direct injection?

When I had the first inkling of an issue, I let it ride and my lifters started clattering.

After heavier oil and "flush" product at oil changes, nothing more.

Did I do it the correct way? Doubt it. Still gets 33mpg if driven at 65mph. 80mph gets 28 mpg.

I may invest in a gallon of seafoam. I am serious. I see no reason why my car can't last until 250k. Some in the gas, some in the oil.

Not just no, F no. To quote my (former) A4 driving buddy, "it was like this bad relationship that I kept thinking would get better."

Every person I know who has owned an Audi ended up hating them.

Used ones (OK, outside of their warranty ones) are almost free here in New Zealand.