Car door locks

[JackDidley]

I am posting this here because, 1) there is no traffic in the Cayman forum. 2) the security system should be similar to the 911s. 3) lots of experienced guys in OT.
My '08 Cayman doors will not lock. They just click. push the button on the remote, they just click. Switch on the dash, same thing. The key will lock the drivers door. No way to lock the other one. I dont lock it anyway but I hate it when something does not work as it should. Ideas please ??

[wildthing]

Actuators?

[JackDidley]

They do a lot of clicking. Not so much locking.

[sc_rufctr]

Take a door trim off and have a look. (being careful not to break any plastic clips)

[JackDidley]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

Take a door trim off and have a look. (being careful not to break any plastic clips)

Thats the plan for Monday. Stuff going on today. Would like to have a clue what to look for.

[ossiblue]

The fact that they "click" makes me think there is a mechanical reason for the failure, something like a jammed/"frozen" door lock mechanism, or an actuator arm disconnected from the lock. Not sure exactly how the system works, but from a bit of searching it seems that even if one actuator is bad, that might compromise the whole system. Failure could be in anything that locks, including the trunk and gas flap, but the main suspect seems to be the driver's door as that is the one most often jarred due to its high usage. Good luck, and keep us posted. Anything you find out will help someone else with a similar problem, regardless of the car type.

[JackDidley]

I have a 55 Chevy to tune on today. Will come back to this later.

[sc_rufctr]

Is the Cayman central locking system electro/pneumatic? (like on an older VW Golf or Mercedes)

If it is it could just be one of the hoses has a leak. Most likely at one of the connectors (rubber hose to plastic hose)

The air pump motor in my MK3 took a dump. I replaced the whole system with an aftermarket electric central locking kit that cost less than a second hand pump from a breaking yard.

[JackDidley]

I "think" its electronic. Some control module somewhere.

[rusnak]

Durametric software would probably find a fault code and tell you which door or which door part was bad.

[JackDidley]

I have a left door code that says driver seat belt resistance is out of spec. Right door says passenger side front sensor. Doesnt seem like these codes would stop the locks from working.

[john70t]

Look carefully at the door frames for signs of mis-alignmnent.
Same with the lock plate loop or whatever it is called. Sometimes these can loosen up and shift. There will be scoring and strike marks when the mechanical parts are not lining up.
Get some lube in the lock and retry. It's probably just gummy.

Open the doors, hit the lock remote, and watch the actual locks click.
Do any move slowly?
You'll probably have to wedge the 'open door' button switches down first.
Most cars probably won't centrally-lock unless all doors are shut.

Same thing happened to me: Dors wouldn't lock.
I purchased a new Honda actuator but decided to play with the crappy one before installing.
Took off the panel, lubed it up and it started working slick as snot again. Like new again.
I still replaced it because it was a weak motor and didn't want anyone else to deal with it again.

[rusnak]

Originally Posted by JackDidley

I have a left door code that says driver seat belt resistance is out of spec. Right door says passenger side front sensor. Doesnt seem like these codes would stop the locks from working.

Can you check the rest of the modules too? I dunno, like instrument cluster, etc. Maybe there is something somewhere.

And does the remote unlock the driver's door once locked with the key?

Will the alarm go off if the lock button is pushed, and someone rocks the car back and forth to test the alarm?

Also, the door closed sensor (no button) may have a malfunction. You don't get a door open or trunk open alarm on the dash?

[JackDidley]

Originally Posted by john70t

Look carefully at the door frames for signs of mis-alignmnent.
Same with the lock plate loop or whatever it is called. Sometimes these can loosen up and shift. There will be scoring and strike marks when the mechanical parts are not lining up.
Get some lube in the lock and retry. It's probably just gummy.

Open the doors, hit the lock remote, and watch the actual locks click.
Do any move slowly?
You'll probably have to wedge the 'open door' button switches down first.
Most cars probably won't centrally-lock unless all doors are shut.

Same thing happened to me: Dors wouldn't lock.
I purchased a new Honda actuator but decided to play with the crappy one before installing.
Took off the panel, lubed it up and it started working slick as snot again. Like new again.
I still replaced it because it was a weak motor and didn't want anyone else to deal with it again.

Will do. Probably Monday. Still 55ing.

Originally Posted by rusnak

Can you check the rest of the modules too? I dunno, like instrument cluster, etc. Maybe there is something somewhere.

And does the remote unlock the driver's door once locked with the key?

Will the alarm go off if the lock button is pushed, and someone rocks the car back and forth to test the alarm?

Also, the door closed sensor (no button) may have a malfunction. You don't get a door open or trunk open alarm on the dash?

I have checked. No other codes.
Back to testing on Monday.

[rusnak]

Would it be the lock actuator if it is able to unlock with the remote?

[JackDidley]

Originally Posted by rusnak

Would it be the lock actuator if it is able to unlock with the remote?

Good question. I am going out to lock it with the key and try the remote unlock. Done with the 55 project for today.

[JackDidley]

I am sooo confused.
Driver door fuse out. Door locks with key. Opened with remote one time. No more
Driver door fuse in, door will not lock at all. Turn key to lock and it self unlocks.
Passenger door fuse seemed to have no effect. Going back out to try more stuff.

[john70t]

"Driver door fuse in, door will not lock at all. Turn key to lock and it self unlocks."
The computer thinks a door is still open, and so safety first?

Sounds like driver door sensor because the fuse is the changing variable.
Or maybe door wires/ground are kinked or broken.
You could OHM test with power off, or Volt test with power on.

That's my guess for now.

[JackDidley]

I hope to get time to take the panel off Monday. Really wish I knew what to look for. Watched a YT video on removal. That will help.

[rusnak]

Do the interior lights come on/ off normally?

Do the windows move to the down position when you pull on the door handle? Close after the door is shut?

Do you have an aftermarket alarm? Do you have PCM? Is the DME set to auto-lock and unlock the doors? Have you recently driven in deep water or a flooded driveway?