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Best synthetic decking?
Looking to redo my wood deck with a synthetic material this spring. Does anyone have knowledge of a long lasting brand that isn't stupid expensive?
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My neighbors are as I write replacing with this stuff:
https://timbertech.com Looks good so far. I'll report back when I've seen it up close. We're watching with interest as our back stairs / landing are scheduled for replacement this summer. |
My question would be...how bad is your current decking? Is it beyond refinishing?
There are products now that will fill in cracks and resurface to look like new, with long life. |
NOT TREX. No matter what. Weighs a ton and goes all wavy between support beams within a couple years... Got screwed once, and inhgerited it on another home, it's a curse..
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current decking is just ugly and i'm tired of spraying constantly. I've seen paint like finishes that look good when applied but appear to be a major hassle when it's time to refinish.
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I used this back in 2002. It still looks pretty darned good BUT it wasn't cheap back then. It might be cheaper now??
https://www.eonultra.com/ |
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It's easy to apply (must do 2 coats) and after 4 years, mine still looks like a new surface. It fills in the cracks and screw depressions so much that it's impossible to find the screws anymore (which can be a prob. if wanting to remove a deck board) |
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The laminated composites will delaminate, at least in Michigan.
If trying to save old wood, I've used Sikkens stain, the most solid color one for restoration. It has the qualities of oil and latex really seals and fills in the cracks - two coats of course. Power-wash preparation very important, and let it dry all the way. |
Went next door and looked at the Timber Tek. It's got that plastic sort of look - from 15' you wouldn't know, but up close it's clearly a composite. It seems to be an impregnated sawdust core with laminated faces and edges. What I'm curious to see is how the fasteners work. It's got a groove cut on all edges that a clip sort of deal slides into and blind screws to the framing. Will report when they're laying the field.
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I redid my deck 5 years ago with this:
TimberTech Terrain Collection 47/50 in. x 5-9/25 in. x 12 ft. Rustic Elm Grooved Capped Composite Decking Board-TCGV5412RE - The Home Depot It is T&G so all fasteners are hidden. Easy to cut and install. Looks great still with zero maintenance. I would do this again. The only downside I notice is that in the summer it gets quite hot. Not comfortable for bare feet in 100F outside temps so I always wear shoes or flops. |
For my projects with exterior "wood" applications, I've been using Resysta (branded Trugrain in the US) with great success. Planks are made with rice husks, salt and mineral oil and more importantly is free of ligin, which causes graying. On average its around $8/ft2.
Really nice product... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489082619.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489082438.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489082700.jpg |
great feedback all, thank you!
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For sure. There's a chart floating around out there comparing it to several other products (composites, hardwoods, etc) from a fading perspective and it holds its color very well.
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Different, but I used GacoDeck because I wanted the deck to be waterproof.
Cheap because the whole deck is 3/4" G1S exterior plywood. The GacoDeck coating was easy to apply and comes as a complete kit. 50 year limited warranty. https://gaco.com/product-details/gacodeck-kit/ Four years and no issues so far, the worst has been gum in one spot. I scrub it with soap and a broom then power wash it once a year. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTxp9iuT8tk |
I've become a fan of any deck you don't have to screw down through the planks. Either screw heads everywhere or those stupid plug things are a nope for me.
Several companies use a side clip to attach boards to the structure. Other than old school tongue and groove I'd go clip in a second |
^^^That's how the EON decking works....clips between the planks. This means that those planks can be re-used should you decide to add an addition to your deck. It also allows access to below your deck without destroying those expensive planks.....in the event YOU ACCIDENTALLY DROP YOUR KEYS and they fall through...ask me how I know!!:rolleyes:
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None are any good in my opinion. Trex being the worst from my experience. Stay with real wood and re-stain every few years as needed. Treated wood will be the least expensive and tend to shrink, warp and splinter due to the treating process and being crap wood but will last ten years or so and is inexpensive to replace. Replace bad pieces as needed. Cedar is a good stable naturally decay free wood. It will last and stay looking good for a long time. Stain if you like or let weather to silver gray. Redwood, Mahogany and Teak are a bit pricey but also very stable rot resistant and beautiful. They will last decades. Stay away from that waterproofing crap. A hint to preventing rot is to wash with salt water. Fresh water will promote rot.
Teak deck, internet photo not mine. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489097112.jpg |
^^^ very true! especially where extreme weather is a factor.
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