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I wear progressive bifocals, but do not like them at all for driving. For the past several years I have used cheapo 1.25-1.50 reader sunglasses for driving - they are perfect for me. If you shop them, make sure they are "full reader" sunglasses. 90% of reader sunglasses are just normal lenses with a small magnification strip at the bottom for reading.
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Thanks everyone for all of the input. Lots of good info for this glasses newbie.
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I have a few cheap sets for doing car work / yard work etc.. I have two sets of dailies, same manufacturer, Takumi, one set up as progressive one regular. They use rimless sun glasses that attach to the nose bridge with small magnets. You can barely tell I'm wearing glasses. They are not cheap but I've had one set 20+ years and the other 10 so you get bang for the buck. Similar to this with toothpick thin side pieces. http://cdn-i1.go-optic.com/w350%7Ch350%7Cf/AUSTJW40.jpg |
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQ5OJ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490389123.jpg |
Here's a very brief optics lesson for you guys....
First let's assume (a) you're an "absolute Presbyope"....i.e. you have virtually no "accommodation", the ability to focus up close....if you're mid to late 50s+, you're pretty much an absolute Presbyope. (b) You're distance correction in both eyes is zero (you wear no RX for distance): OD: Plano / OS: Plano. The RX of those readers is always in metric, being in Diopters, such that the focal length of +1.00DS (Diopter Sphere) is 1.0 Meter. To figure out the focal length just calculate the inverse....F=1/D. So a +1.00 should be used to focus at 1 meter; +1.50 @ 66.67 cm; +2.00 @ 50.00 cm; +2.50 @ 40.00 cm; +3.00 @ 33.33 cm, ...+5.00 @ 20 cm, etc. Let's take it 1 step further...if you're a low Myope (mildly nearsighted) with a distance correction of say: OD -1.00 / OS -1.00 your focal length is already @ 1.00 meter so you would subtract +1.00 D from the RX to obtain the desired focal length. So with a +1.00 reader you would focus at 50 cm; a +2.00 would focus at 33.33 cm; a +2.50 would focus at 28.57 cm, etc. It's the opposite if you're a low Hyperope (mildly farsighted). If you're distance correction is say: OD +1.00 / OS +1.00 you would need to add +1.00 to the reader to get the desired focal length. So in this case a +2.00 would focus in at 1.00 meter; a +3.25 at 44.44 cm, a +5.00 at 25 cm. Any questions?.........:D |
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Mrs WD can get by with readers (she calls them "cheaters"). I can use them if I'm in a pinch and don't have my glasses. My prescription costs $200 even at the discount places, and I need them if I really want to see up close.
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Reading glasses in the typical drug store start at +1.00 (weak) and go up to about +3.25 (strong).
The advantage to weak is a depth of focus, that is things are in focus for 1-2 feet so they have a long working range. The advantage to strong is more magnification, but the disadvantage is you have to hold things closer and can only move them a little or they go out of focus. We generally recommend using the weakest lenses you need, because of the advantage of a large working range. As we get older, most folks need stronger and stronger lenses, moving from +1.00 to +1.25 to +1.50,etc - usually up to about +2.50. Once we need +2.00 to see small print well, the focal point is too close for something further away like a computer. Most of us then use two pairs. +1.25 for the computer and +2.00 (+) for reading small print like a newspaper. Charles |
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Get down to 2" (5cm) and I need something as strong a 4.0 |
Not everyone knows you can also get cheaters for welding helmets. Particularly with TIG welding you really need to see the puddle and endure you're biting both edges of what you're welding.
I have some +2 cheater lenses that pop into the helmet... And sometimes I'll still wear a pair of 1.5 glasses under the helmet for delicate work. |
I've got several pair depending on what use. They range from 1.25 for computer stuff, to my default which is 1.5. I have 2.5's I use in the shop for up close detail work and then the headset mounted loupe magnifiers that you'll see watchmakers using that are 8x - 20x. Just use what power gives the clearest vision for any given task.
I use bi-focal sunglasses for driving so I can see long distances with out - and then look down to read a map or iPod. My favorite source is Lightweight Reading Glasses Online | Visualites Sun Readers & Accessories . They're lightweight and the temples are flexible. Their bifocal sunglasses are great too. |
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At 45, I have read, good close vision for those lucky to have it starts to decline as mentioned. |
Back in my 40's I used to say "you know you are getting old when you go to the store for some one point fives and they are reading glasses."
Now at 54 I'm in the 3.25-4.00 variety. |
My eyes are different, so my best reading glasses are prescription. Not that expensive online.
I use throw-aways for work, break/lose a few pairs a year. Worth seeing an ophthalmologist occasionally, I was upping the readers, and found out it was a cataract. |
When I first started needing to use reading glasses, I went the monocular contact lens route and was very happy with that for quite a few years. I kept cheap reading glasses scattered around for those times I did't have the contacts in.
Eventually the DMV told me if I wanted to continue to drive legally... then on to bi-focals. Now I have large framed reading glasses for the computer and both bifocal glasses and sunglasses for everyday use... glasses supplied by Costco. And then there are those times when working underneath a car or on something overhead and nothing works.. and if you ever use a dive mask, you can get stick on half-lens magnifiers so you can actually see close up stuff underwater !!! |
Lee Valley sells the stick ons...good for safety glasses in the shop.
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I've been skirting around bifocals for about 10 years at least. Somehow I have kept them at bay. |
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Reasons being, we all have iris' which react to total average light levels MUCH more quickly than do transition lenses, and that simply darkening the lens does little to attenuate the high dynamics (bright spots / glare) --whereas polarizing does. To answer your original Q, I've had good results with Zenni Optical. |
While running errands for other things today, I checked out the readers at a couple of places. I have tried some +1.50 that the missus had and they seemed surprisingly strong. I was able to try to +1.00 at a Walmart today and found that they are much better than the +1.50. I'm surprised at how big the difference is between +1.00, +1.25 and +1.50. The display was all Foster Grants. They were comfy and seemed much better made than the 3/$10 that the missus usually gets, so I bought two pair, plus I have 2 pair of +1.50 that the missus doesn't like. I think we'll end up getting some +1.25 for the missus too, but she didn't mention that until we had paid and left. She thinks having different glasses for different tasks (computer vs reading) is going to be helpful.
It's nice that the depth of field of the +1.00 is very deep. I was able to read the fine print in an HTML email on my phone as well as being able to still read the text on the items 10'-12' away without either causing discomfort. The +1.50s work but are uncomfortable or maybe disorienting for items that are across a room. Thanks for the tidbit about being able to "stack" them for greater effect. It'll be useful if she asks me to thread a needle or for other very fine work. Thanks for all of the help. |
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