building a man cave/garage need some advice
 

So the wife and I were all set in our current home , it met all that we wanted and more and it had a three car detached garage......... perfect . Until we got this wild idea to retire in the northern mountains of Georgia . Found our retirement house and closed on it the end of April . So now man cave II has to be designed/constructed . After doing lots of searching I decided to start with a pole barn as the structure.

Yesterday it was completed it is 24 ' wide x 28 ' deep with 12 ' tall poles. For now just a roof and enclosed gables . Next will be pouring the cement floor and here is where some help/advice is needed .

1.The garage door/s will be on one of the 24 ' wide ends so do I go with one 16 ' wide door ? Or do I go with a 10 ' and 12 ' ? Or two 10 ' ? One side will have a scissor lift the other a two post lift .

2.Any suggestions on how deep into the garage I install the two post lift ? I'm thinking of centering it so aprox. 14 ' in . I need to get that figured out before pouring the concrete . My plan is to pour a floor aprox. 5.5 " - 6 " thick but where the two post will go I will pour two 3 ' x 3 ' squares about 10 " - 12 " thick that should last my lifetime and beyond .

3. The vehicles that will be serviced on the lifts are an SUV , an extended cab pick up and the Boxster . So the longest vehicle is the pick up . If I set the lift centered at 14 ' in that would leave plenty of room forward and behind but maybe the lift should be closer to the garage doors ?

4.The walls will be 2 x 6 standard wood studs , for our climate the insulation value should be sufficient. I am going to heat/cool with a Mitsubishi mini split that I currently have in our other house . Exterior walls will be some type of OSB/plywood then house wrap and then whatever I decide for siding . Am thinking of installing two windows on each 28 ' side and one on the backwall . There will also be a 36 " entry door . Roof rafters will have radiant barrier stapled to the underside which will give a nice air gap to the metal roof . Ceiling insulation will be as much as I can get in there but I have no doubt I can get this building to be energy efficient .

5.Yes I am aware of the garage forums but there are a lot of smart Pelicans out there and I value their opinions . Oh there will be an 100 amp service installed already have a quote from an electrician. And the compressor will be installed on outside of building in it's own noise suppression room . Lighting will be some form of LED . So what suggestions do you guys have ? What have I not thought about ? I'm hoping to pour the concrete in the next 3 - 4 weeks .

For the lifts - consider allowing for hydraulic lines and power lines to be run via conduit in channels/PVC piping within the foundation. I did this for my woodworking section of my shop for power and dust collection to the center of the room for my table saw.

almost finished with my new garage: my .02

1) keep in mind the lift ramps will extend approximately 3 feet past the end of the lift or longer if you use race ramps.
2) Power - decide if you want 120 or 240 V motor for lift and plan on power accordingly. If you go 120- will need a 20amp breaker. I went 20amp on all my circuits, that is code in CA.
3) I went with the widest garage door possible for my space, I just didn't want to worry about navigating door edges when backing off a lift with cars that have poor visibility.
4) are you doing any heat or AC? radiant heated floors are awfully nice!!
5) Roof vent with Fan for summer heat of you don't do AC. I bought one from HD with thermostat. designed to be hardwired but I put mine on a wall switch so I can turn it off if I want.
6) I installed cans with LED's- I did not want want anything hanging past ceiling Sheetrock.
7) I built a small loft over garage door to store stuff and provides a nice finished area.
8) what kind of garage door opener are you using? if you use traditional center of door opener- will eat up ceiling space. I used a wall mount lift master. Mounts to wall with door spring/bar. also affects outlet placement to power unit.

I was going to post something like this - so I'll just +1 :)

I did mine over the last two years. It is 40 deep, 30 wide. My two post is inside the 10 foot door, I believe 12 feet in. Most of what goes on there is smaller (914's, 911's) My wife's Lexus SUV and my Tacoma I think would fit fine as well.

Everybody in my neighbourhood got 1 door garage. I wanted 2 and glad I did.

I end up with 2'+9'+4'+9'+2' for 26' everybody else end-up with 22'

The 4' between the two door can be use for a bench or hang an engine...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1496320595.jpg

All good so far. I'll try and not repeat.

- Run water for at least a sink. That is the last task I have for my converted tobacco barn. I will use bio soap or a catch basin.

- Two garage doors with at least one that is electric opening. That has saved me from getting wet dozens of times.

- If you haven't poured concrete yet, see if you can fit in a small floor drain in each bay.

- I like a lot of windows. They are all screened and I use window fans quite a bit.

- As many electric plugs as you think you will need plus a few more.

- Outdoor electric plug.

- We get a ton of field mice in the winter. I built in a few sliders so I can sprinkle mice poison in strategic places. I have never noticed a smell.

- Shelving and storage are personal choices but I have become fond of fold out work spaces and work benches on wheels. Everything I need to work on stuff rolls.

- Wifi repeater. I use my phone as a hot spot for my garage laptop but I am looking at a repeater.

Be nice if the post lift was close enough to the raised loft that the lift could be used like an elevator to raise awkward items into the loft.
I'd have the lift in line with a garage door so it is easy to get on and off.

How about adding a floor drain and having a small indoor car wash/detail area?

Sink the scissor lift in the ground so you can drive lower cars right on it with out ramps.
Also make a plywood cover for the scissor lift so it can disappear when not in use.
I'd think one lift is enough.
2 lifts sounds life too much work. ;)

Need a dedicated wall for the big screen too.
Add some skylights.
Nice window locations so you can work in the garage with the doors closed.
I'd have the garage doors face east so the afternoon hard sun is on the back of the building.
My 2 10x20 roll up doors face west and are hot as pizza ovens in the summer.

Thought of a few more items:

1) I pulled speaker wires so I can have a good sound system eventually ( make sure you use speaker wires that are rated for running inside walls.
2) Pulled cable - for an eventual flat screen TV.
3) Added blocks between rafters where I thought I would hang cabinets, tire rack, mount speakers, TV etc. I think it's easier to hang stuff after the fact especially if you are off .5 inches on framing as I am sure I was in a few spots.
4) GFI outlets outside- I tried to eliminate extension cords
5) Interior outlets about every 4 feet. code in CA requires outlets to be 48" from floor- if I could I would have done 48" and 18" from floor.
6) I bought a security system from Costco- installed cameras front and back of garage. Will also have a camera inside . Plan on having all wires terminate centrally located( speakers, cameras, recording unit, stereo receiver in a tall cabinet. Everything will be neatly placed and hidden in an enclosed cabinet.
7) Do not have compressor built in, but if I did I would run airlines in walls and have nipples every four feet eliminating air-hose tangles
8) I used Hardyboard siding outside- fireproof and termite proof. expensive but matched my house.
9) considering motion senser switches so lights come on when I walk into garage.

2 - 8' (or 10') overhead doors and a man door are more convenient than 1 - 16'.
Lift is accessible via 1 door and everything else goes through the other.

No windows in a garage. While the light is nice, security and temperature/humidity control are easier in an insulated, sealed up box in a moderate climate like Georgia. If you like the look, put fake windows on the exterior.

Insulate everything including the doors. Closed cell foam is awesome, but expensive.

Drop down, retractable air lines and extension cords from the ceiling are worth the effort.

All LED's.

Stain and seal the concrete floors- keeps it much cleaner and better for sliding around on your backhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1496332764.jpg

cbush, is that stained after it was poured?

Trying to figure out what to do with my floor and not 100% sold on epoxy.

Thanks

Looks like Acid Stain which is done after the Concrete hardens

That is correct- was even done after the building was built. Acid stain with an epoxy finish. Stands up very well to gasoline, oil, brake fluid, dirving on it, etc. Long term parking- like our boat trailer tires will leave marks, but that is about it.

Did you do it yourself? If so any guidance is appreciated- beautiful floor.

Slant the floor a wee bit...so water will run out the doors. Very handy for wash/wax jobs done in shade.

Had it done by a local concrete staining place. It is a pretty big, messy job, and getting the finish right took the professionals a few try's in places. But I suppose it is doable, and the actual products are pretty cheap.

I have a large squeegee that I use to get water off the floor. Less of a problem now that I put garage door seal on the floor on to keep water from coming in off the driveway.

Wow a lot of great ideas ! Yes I will make sure there are plenty of wall and ceiling outlets . I currently have two drop lights on cord reels hanging from the ceiling . I will also have one ceiling fan and three wall mounted fans . Yes to HVAC with a 24K Mitsubishi mini split . I may or may not sink the scissor lift into the floor . I'm still hung up on garage door sizes . Building a storage loft over the garage doors is an excellent idea . I will be transferring from my current garage many Gladiator metal wall cabinets and two large vertical cabinets so I'm pretty much set there . Also have a fold out Gladiator setup which currently is my office/TV area and that will be going also . The new garage will have cellphone/internet connection via the home WIFI if I can get it to work may have to have a repeater/booster . No sky lights the roof is done . Garage door opener will be the wall mount type vs. overhead type . Keep the ideas coming , this is why I posted here lots of tribal knowledge :D

"8) what kind of garage door opener are you using? if you use traditional center of door opener- will eat up ceiling space. I used a wall mount lift master. Mounts to wall with door spring/bar. also affects outlet placement to power unit."
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Excellent idea. Just ck'd mine...lots of wasted space between opened double door & ceiling.

Perhaps central air. Copper pipe from air compressor to a couple of points of use minimizing air hose across the floor. I have a slab with plants in containers & a bbq for the moment.