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Did you get the memo?
 
onewhippedpuppy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
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High Quality & Affordable Business Wear?

I am very casual in my social life, but in a customer facing business development role I prefer to look as professional as possible. Up to this point I have mostly bought from the typical retail type stores, like Dillard's and Men's Warehouse, and have overall felt fairly underwhelmed with the quality of the product. We are mostly talking about button up long sleeved shirts, pants, and sport jackets, I don't frequently have to wear a full suit and tie. So, am I looking in the wrong places? Are there some online options that can be tailored locally? I'm just trying to find a higher quality of product without spending a small fortune.

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Old 08-13-2017, 12:13 PM
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Old 08-13-2017, 12:21 PM
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Brooks Brothers. I have been buying their dress shirts since the mid seventy's. They hold up well IMO. They usually have sales and that is when I buy them. My entire wardrobe has changed over the years and I don't need the large number of dress shirts as in the past. The traditional stuff never goes out of style.
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Old 08-13-2017, 12:26 PM
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I can't help you with a small fortune part but I've always had the best luck with custom tailored clothing. You might start off with a few shirts and see how they do for you.
Old 08-13-2017, 01:06 PM
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Thanks so far. Jim, I've checked out Brooks Brothers and find them pretty similar to Men's Warehouse. JR, what's the ballpark in terms of price for a full tailored shirt or pant? I don't need a huge closet, but I'd like to own quality items.
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:09 PM
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A Man of Wealth and Taste
 
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Join Date: Dec 2002
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What size do you wear?

Shirt

Slacks

Sport Coat or Suit

Ties..color and pattern.

Shoes. What kind do ya like?


I have piles of Zenga, Brioni, Seffano Richi, Hermes, Ferragamo, Armani, RL Purple Label , Luis Vuitton, Vittali Pincaldi, Gucci Italian ties...I have lots of killer stuff.


I personally wear Zanella Italian wool slacks, Zenga shirts, Broni Sports shirts, Zenga sports coats...I have Churchs, McAfee, David Peal, RL, Zenga, Ferragamo, Bally, B Magli, Gravatti, vtg Footjoy street shoes & Golf, Par West Alligator Vintage Florsheim & Hannover, Tods, Prada, Dolce Gabbana, C Loubetain, Brooks Brothers (Alden), Mauri, Gucci, vtg Cole Hann, among others.
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:24 PM
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Shirt prices vary according to the fabric chosen and other details. Mine probably start out at about $125. Likewise, pants prices vary according to the fabric. Obviously they are much higher. You might try a few shirts and see if you like the feel of a custom shirt. You might find that the extra cost is worth it, because nothing off the rack will fit like a custom garment, not even the high-end designer crap.
Old 08-13-2017, 01:34 PM
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A Man of Wealth and Taste
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javadog View Post
Shirt prices vary according to the fabric chosen and other details. Mine probably start out at about $125. Likewise, pants prices vary according to the fabric. Obviously they are much higher. You might try a few shirts and see if you like the feel of a custom shirt. You might find that the extra cost is worth it, because nothing off the rack will fit like a custom garment, not even the high-end designer crap.
I was paying 125 for bespoke Swiss cotton shirts, 250 for Italia wool Gaberdine slacks...and 500 for sport coats back in 1990.

The quality depends upon the Taylor that you have?

And you have never worn Brioni....U know the brand the Trumpmeister wears. His suits cost 17K a pop. Suits start at 6K

Zanella slacks start at 325 at Nordstroms and at Neiman start at 395 and go to 535.

The quality is there...

It is material and finish (attention to details).
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:41 PM
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Last year I got some okay business shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt. Not the best, not the worst, but they had a good offer (I think it was 4 for $25 each or 3 for $33, or something like that)

The key is to wait for a good introductory offer. The current website offer is "meh"

They have a good return policy and smooth shipping. They wrinkle a little more than I like, but have held up. I can't say the same for some other shirts I've gotten. I bought several shirts of different cuts and sizes. When I found the one I liked, I returned the rest and reordered in the ideal size. It cost nothing extra to do that.

Everything seems to have taken a step down. JoS. Banks seems more like what Kohls used to be. Kohl's has turned into total crap. The fabric there is so wafer thin it's transparent. I've wipe my butt with toilet paper that has more strength than some of the fabrics they offered.


https://www.ctshirts.com/us/homepage
Old 08-13-2017, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabs View Post
I was paying 125 for bespoke Swiss cotton shirts
61 years old yesterday and have read this term hundreds of times across my life.

Finally googled it's meaning just now. It fits in the sentence just fine.
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Old 08-13-2017, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabs View Post
I was paying 125 for bespoke Swiss cotton shirts, 250 for Italia wool Gaberdine slacks...and 500 for sport coats back in 1990.

The quality depends upon the Taylor that you have?

And you have never worn Brioni....U know the brand the Trumpmeister wears. His suits cost 17K a pop. Suits start at 6K

Zanella slacks start at 325 at Nordstroms and at Neiman start at 395 and go to 535.

The quality is there...

It is material and finish (attention to details).
The word is spelled tailor...

I quite understand what goes into a nice garment. The problem with the designer crap is that I am not the same shape and size as the mythical man they use for their patterns. I don't care how much tailoring is done to a garment, if it starts off a mile off from your size and shape, you are just not going to get to the happy place.

I couldn't care less where Trump gets his clothing, I don't happen to think it fits him very well. Nor does he know it how to wear it properly, but that's another problem isn't it?
Old 08-13-2017, 02:14 PM
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A Man of Wealth and Taste
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEAKYSEALS951 View Post
Last year I got some okay business shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt. Not the best, not the worst, but they had a good offer (I think it was 4 for $25 each or 3 for $33, or something like that)

The key is to wait for a good introductory offer. The current website offer is "meh"

They have a good return policy and smooth shipping. They wrinkle a little more than I like, but have held up. I can't say the same for some other shirts I've gotten. I bought several shirts of different cuts and sizes. When I found the one I liked, I returned the rest and reordered in the ideal size. It cost nothing extra to do that.

Everything seems to have taken a step down. JoS. Banks seems more like what Kohls used to be. Kohl's has turned into total crap. The fabric there is so wafer thin it's transparent. I've wipe my butt with toilet paper that has more strength than some of the fabrics they offered

https://www.ctshirts.com/us/homepage
Have you noticed that they offer buy one get one, or two extra for FREE....

That = NO DEMAND CURVE...retailers have to ENTICE you to buy....

Beyond that have you noticed that the QUALITY is GOING DOWN HILL...

That = that the MFG has to maintain a PRICE POINT because people WILL NOT PAY MORE....So to to maintain price point QUALITY SUFFERS.

I have been watching this happen for YEARS...Chinese/Indian made dress shoes shoes in the early 2000's were decent.... NOW to maintain price point of about 150 to 200 for business or dress shoes the Soles are really shytie...they will last about 6 months before they are shot...and yo have to throw them away because they are glued...and not stitched.

Good dress shoes made in Spain start at about 275 for Mezlans (Blake Stitch), and 400 for American made Allen Edmonds (Goodyear Welt). Go better than that and you are talking 600 to 2000 a pair and with exotic skins well you can go to 15K for a pair of John Lobb's.

Good quality is still available it just costs money. Either people don't care, are not willing or can not afford really good quality goods. Take your choice..

MFG's like Broini don't cut costs they just charge more.

Quality clothing lasts longer, fits better and looks better...than the average schlock...
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Old 08-13-2017, 02:24 PM
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As you know with other things in life, quality and affordable don't often go hand in hand.
However, you might want to dip your toe into the world of MTM (made to measure), which can get close* to bridging the gap between the quality of a tailored garment with the somewhat reasonable price of and OTR (off the rack) piece.
Spend a few moments online with the various fashion oriented sites to get the names of a few vendors and start exploring. Hope that helps.

Personally, I've had much success with buying quality vintage pieces (OTR and bespoke) and having them tailored to fit my frame. I'm not talking Salvation Army stuff, rather quality finds at estate sales in the high end of town. Taking the OTR stuff you have from Men's Warehouse to a tailor will do wonders, "I guarantee it".

*close, but nothing replaces the quality fit and feel of a truly bespoke shirt.
Old 08-13-2017, 02:37 PM
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A Man of Wealth and Taste
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javadog View Post
The word is spelled tailor...

I quite understand what goes into a nice garment. The problem with the designer crap is that I am not the same shape and size as the mythical man they use for their patterns. I don't care how much tailoring is done to a garment, if it starts off a mile off from your size and shape, you are just not going to get to the happy place.

I couldn't care less where Trump gets his clothing, I don't happen to think it fits him very well. Nor does he know it how to wear it properly, but that's another problem isn't it?
I am sorry....

I am 6'5"...so I have difficulty with certain things...mostly sports coats and leather jackets...

Broini does mostly custom tailoring and has an off the rack line (a Cashmere sport coat is 6400) ..which is superlative. In my size there is no off the rack sport coats from Brioni nor a lot of the mfg's. Italian stuff is usually cut for da skinny euros.

Do you notice the clean line that Trumps suits cur on his shoulders? Do you notice the material.. It is sharp...I havn't seen him wear his suits buttoned so?

You either don't know anything or are being ornery?
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Old 08-13-2017, 02:44 PM
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I know plenty tabs, I've been wearing custom clothes for around 40 years.

Given your height and girth, there's no point in you shopping at an off the rack store. You know and I know that it's just not worth it.

There's usually nothing wrong with the way Trump's suit coats lay on his upper body, but I'm not fond of his penchant for wearing what amounts to an outer coat in place of a jacket. I wish he could learn to tie his ties to the proper length and to button his coats occasionally. I do wish that Melania would help him select his ties, as he seems to have no imagination.

Speaking of ties, where on earth do you find ties that are long enough for someone of your size?
Old 08-13-2017, 02:51 PM
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One more thing I will note about the skinny euros.... It used to be enough for them to cut their arm holes up so high they had to shave their pits to fit into the jacket. Now it seems the latest trend is to make the jacket two sizes too small in front, so it wrinkles like a mother****er when they button it.

Idiots, they are. I'm quite surprised with how many people I see nowadays that should know better but don't.
Old 08-13-2017, 02:54 PM
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A Man of Wealth and Taste
 
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Join Date: Dec 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarc View Post
As you know with other things in life, quality and affordable don't often go hand in hand.
However, you might want to dip your toe into the world of MTM (made to measure), which can get close* to bridging the gap between the quality of a tailored garment with the somewhat reasonable price of and OTR (off the rack) piece.
Spend a few moments online with the various fashion oriented sites to get the names of a few vendors and start exploring. Hope that helps.

Personally, I've had much success with buying quality vintage pieces (OTR and bespoke) and having them tailored to fit my frame. I'm not talking Salvation Army stuff, rather quality finds at estate sales in the high end of town. Taking the OTR stuff you have from Men's Warehouse to a tailor will do wonders, "I guarantee it".

*close, but nothing replaces the quality fit and feel of a truly bespoke shirt.
I have a friend that bought TWO Broini suits that were in perfect condition and in good colours for $60 (30 each) at a GoodWill. Those were 6K each suits...

He also found a 4 pairs of Tom Ford dress shoes one was a pair of Crocs that retailed for 12K.. (the other 3 were about 1200 each) .at a local Thrift for under 20 each.

So it depends upon the town that the Thrifts are in?
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Old 08-13-2017, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarc View Post
As you know with other things in life, quality and affordable don't often go hand in hand.
However, you might want to dip your toe into the world of MTM (made to measure), which can get close* to bridging the gap between the quality of a tailored garment with the somewhat reasonable price of and OTR (off the rack) piece.
Spend a few moments online with the various fashion oriented sites to get the names of a few vendors and start exploring. Hope that helps.

*close, but nothing replaces the quality fit and feel of a truly bespoke shirt.
I was just going to mention this. A good local shop will make a run of nice shirts. They will embroider your initials for you if you're into that sort of thing. It's a great option if you have odd dimensions such as long or short arms, wide neck, etc etc.
Old 08-13-2017, 03:01 PM
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A Man of Wealth and Taste
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javadog View Post
One more thing I will note about the skinny euros.... It used to be enough for them to cut their arm holes up so high they had to shave their pits to fit into the jacket. Now it seems the latest trend is to make the jacket two sizes too small in front, so it wrinkles like a mother****er when they button it.

Idiots, they are. I'm quite surprised with how many people I see nowadays that should know better but don't.
I am not going to argue too much with you there. Also the length of the Blue's is cut above the ankle...as in being high waters...That stuff is for the youngins...

Broini, is an old line Tailor who is not dedicated to the latest fashion craze...

Where Broini can get wild is in their ties.
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Old 08-13-2017, 03:03 PM
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A Man of Wealth and Taste
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusnak View Post
I was just going to mention this. A good local shop will make a run of nice shirts. They will embroider your initials for you if you're into that sort of thing. It's a great option if you have odd dimensions such as long or short arms, wide neck, etc etc.
Is that so that you can remember your name?

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Old 08-13-2017, 03:04 PM
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