framing nailers- clipped head vs. full

rfuerst911sc · 06-29-2017, 05:42 AM

So I have a fairly large framing project coming up and I want to buy a air framing nailer . Looks like basically looking at clipped head nails vs. full head nails regardless of the brand of air nailer . So what are the pro's and con's of both ? It would seem that the full head would be stronger just based on surface area . What about the availability of the nails ?
This is going to be for the most part a one time use as I am going to be framing up the pole barn/man cave I had installed a few weeks ago . So I am probably going to utilize a Harbor Freight 25 % off coupon on the 4th of July that I received in the mail . Both styles of nailer are $79.99 before the coupon .

VincentVega · 06-29-2017, 05:45 AM

Does your local code allow clipped nails?

I went for a hitachi gun, seems like a go to pro tool and it just works. Nails from HD/lowes. I dont know if I'll ever use the entire box but I do use it more than I thought I would.

javadog · 06-29-2017, 06:02 AM

I wouldn't use anything other than a full head nail and I would not buy a nailer, or nails, at Harbor freight. I'm sure you can rent a nailer that's a better quality, so that you don't have to own it forever.

If this is your first venture into framing, you ought to buy a book on the subject and study it a little bit beforehand.

JR

rfuerst911sc · 06-29-2017, 06:18 AM

Sounds like the full head is the way to go which is what I thought . I am just an avid DIYer and have done a fair amount of framing so smart enough to be dangerous !
This is not that difficult of a project , just framing between the 6 x 6 posts of the pole barn . I just don't feel like swinging a hammer for hours on end . Renting one is out of the equation as I have limited time for the project so it will be spread out over a few weeks will be too costly to rent . Thanks for the feedback guys .

javadog · 06-29-2017, 06:28 AM

I have no idea what you intend to frame, but having been around a while, I would suggest that you might break the project into several phases. First phase would be to calculate the dimensions of everything you need to frame and get all of the wood cut and organized. You might find that you could do all of the nailing over single weekend.

JR

Mark Henry · 06-29-2017, 06:31 AM

If framing a pole barn are the posts pressure treated?
If so I believe (IIRC) you have to use zinc nails.

If you are just strapping the poles for steel cladding you could use deck screws and a cordless drill.

drcoastline · 06-29-2017, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Sounds like the full head is the way to go which is what I thought . I am just an avid DIYer and have done a fair amount of framing so smart enough to be dangerous !
This is not that difficult of a project , just framing between the 6 x 6 posts of the pole barn . I just don't feel like swinging a hammer for hours on end . Renting one is out of the equation as I have limited time for the project so it will be spread out over a few weeks will be too costly to rent . Thanks for the feedback guys .

Either is fine, The holding power is in the shank and the glue on the shank not so much the head. The glue heats up as it penetrates due to friction and then quickly cools. The head is personal preference as is the nailer angled vs straight. For a framing nailer I generally go with an angled nailer as it gets into corners better than a staright nailer.

MRM · 06-29-2017, 08:04 AM

A couple of thoughts. First, if this is a one time project, don't buy a cheap nail gun. Go to a professional construction distributor and rent a professional quality machine. It will make a huge difference.

Second, as was mentioned earlier, you will need to consider the materials you're using when selecting the right nail. A professional fastener distributor will be able to match you up with the right product. The last thing you need is a nail or coating that has an adverse chemical reaction with your building materials.

Third, don't worry about coatings on the nail. They don't really do anything. There is a case to be made for vinyl coated 16d sinker nails, but those are hand driven. The reason for the coating is that the vinyl melts under the friction of the hammer blow and makes the nail sink faster and easier. That isn't an issue with a nail gun. They will try to tell you that coatings make the nail stick more firmly once it's in, but that's just a myth. The nail isn't going anywhere regardless of the coating.

Fourth, there are specific nails for specific applications. Calling a manufacturer and getting the perfect nail for the application can be a life saver. One of the best nail manufacturers is Tree Island Industries. They have an excellent customer service department. Ask them for their catalog and ask their rep which nail to use. Here's a link to their site. Customer Service | Tree Island Steel

Finally, for generic framing, it doesn't matter what type of head you use. The nail is in once it's in. If it's going to pop it will do it one way if it has a head or the other way if it doesn't. The nail gets its strength from the length that is driven into the wood. Friction keeps it in. That's why sinker nails are the specific dimensions they are - they're the perfect length to fasten two 2x4s together without sticking out the other end and without splitting the wood. The nail gun equivalent is the 151 nail which is actually a tiny bit smaller than the 16d but it doesn't matter. The size of the nail you need depends on the framing you're fastening and how thick the pieces are.

sammyg2 · 06-29-2017, 08:33 AM

I don't have a full sized nailer but I have a pneumatic brad gun and stapler, both are from harbor freight and both work just fine.
I wouldn't try to make a living with them but they are more than adequate for projects.

If anyone is worried that they only get what they pay for, i'd be willing to sell both of them for .......

look 171 · 06-29-2017, 08:36 AM

We use a clipped head nail gun, a Hitachi gun and usually use their nails. That gun will shoot almost anything and DOES NOT jam. Some project around here requires full head nails. If we get a slightly larger framing job, I just call in a framer. For all the residential remodel jobs, they will accept clipped head nails.

URY914 · URY914's Garage

Getting good head will make a huge difference in your day.

rusnak · 06-29-2017, 10:32 AM

If you have a quality lumber yard near you, the kind that's been in business 100 years, sells all kinds of stuff, glue lam beams, custom wood, etc to framers, then go there. Ask them all of your questions, and then ask them what you forgot to ask. They'll be a great help to you.

rfuerst911sc · 06-29-2017, 12:13 PM

A lot of good suggestions thank you . Yes the poles are pressure treated but only an end board will contact them if that makes sense . I am going to build conventional studded walls to fit between the poles . I will probably use galvanized screws for attaching to the poles . I am going to use either plywood or OSB for both the exterior sheathing and the interior walls . It will be a very strong sandwich that won't go anywhere in my lifetime . Have not made up my mind on what the final exterior finish will be may go vinyl so no painting .

chapo · 06-29-2017, 12:34 PM

Only one gun to use really,Hitachi NR83. Used mine for 15lus years now . Full head great gun , everyone carries nails for it.

McLovin · 06-29-2017, 12:36 PM

Before starting, just realize that a 2x4 isn't really 2x4.

rfuerst911sc · 06-29-2017, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McLovin

Before starting, just realize that a 2x4 isn't really 2x4.

Haha yes I saw that thread ! I will either go 2x6 or 2x8 for the wall studs . Plenty of room for insulation .

MRM · 06-29-2017, 01:21 PM

Use plywood rather than OSB for the sheathing. OSB is a great product but it melts in water. You just can't let it get wet ever. Plywood holds up much better.

DanielDudley · 06-29-2017, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by URY914

Getting good head will make a huge difference in your day.

OK, Woodbury.

cabmandone · cabmandone's Garage

For what you're doing, Harbor Freight will be just fine. If you're worried about it, buy the cheap extra replacement insurance. The notched vs full is a minimal consideration for me. I have a Bostitch that uses the notched nails and have framed several garages with it. I guess it boils down to which nail type is more accessible. The Bostitch nails are more expensive and I've found that the nailer doesn't like many of the no name nails out there.
The way it sounds, you're framing interior walls in an already built pole barn? If so, don't spend the money on 2x6. You can get a decent R value out of an interior 2x4 wall. I have my heated and unheated space separated by a 2x4 wall lined with 7/16 OSB on both sides and the heated side stays above freezing here all winter except on the very coldest days with no heat turned on.

rfuerst911sc · 06-29-2017, 02:46 PM

cabmando I am framing the walls for the interior and exterior . All I currently have is six posts in the ground each 6x6 supporting 4/12 pitch rafters with metal roof and gable ends . I am next going to pour the concrete floor which will encompass the 6x6 posts. Then I will frame the walls they will be on top of the concrete and will be tied into the posts and the headers .

MRM yeah that's probably a good suggestion , I'll use plywood on the exterior and OSB on the interior . Exterior will get house wrap then whatever I choose as the final finish .