Another project.... a boat with soft floor
 

Bought a 1995 Larson 214 LXI from an old college friend's parents this summer. They were the original owners and in their late 70's, were no longer using the boat that much. When I showed up to buy it, I quickly realized it was going to need some floor work eventually. Starboard captain's chair mount and floor directly behind it was soft. Other than that the rest of boat was pretty nice. About 400 hours total time. 5.7 Mercruiser Alpha 2. Have not had a boat for over 20 years, but with young grandkids, it seemed like it would be fun to use when they came to visit. We had fun with it this summer after replacing the rusted trailer with a used Shorelandr. Looks like I am in for a project this winter.

Went to Lake James in Indiana a couple times.... kids loved it.
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Had to dump it into the pond to swap trailers
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Started tearing it apart a couple weeks ago.... This job is gonna suck, but the deck and stringers will be better than new when finished.
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Is that Marine plywood?

Pretty sure it is just ACX plywood.... I am likely going to use epoxy for the rebuild and do a much better job encapsulating everything regardless of what type of wood I use. All screw holes will be sealed also. I am confident I will never have to do it again. I intend to keep this boat as I like the seating arrangement and it can legally haul 13 people.

My favorite boat sight, might not help you as I know you have skills but i like to put it up for the pure enjoyment of it. Very expensive boats and how they're constructed ....He ( David) goes to hurricanes and looks at boats that have been torn apart to see what they're made of. One story is of a Bertram that went through a restaurant and came out the other side unscathed, Ha! Boats, Yachts: Preventing Rot in Encaplulated Wood Structures

The Larson is a good boat. It's not a Cadillac, but it's a Buick or Lincoln. Very solid. You have the desirable optional engine. The hallmark of the Larson is the quality of their fiberglass. It has some technology to make it more slippery in the water. They are very solid boats and the rot you found is unusual. Glad you could make it like new.

Couple of cans of Flex Seal and a roll of duct tape, mebbe two :)....

I already fixed a thing or two when I first got it..... Buffed boat. Repaired trim position switches. Took drive off to install new boots. Re-screwed loose rubrail. Took rear seats to upholstery shop. Power-washed and treated all canvas. Modified/repaired new used trailer. Repaired trim pump mount. Replaced horn.






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This is gonna suck some serious @ss. :D
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Just be careful.

https://youtu.be/EYX1rIe3SaQ

Boat project update.... been busy this winter with life, but I need to get this boat done soon.

Tore out starboard side rotted floor and bulkheads.
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New starboard stringers and bulkheads now glassed in with epoxy.
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Last night I added began adding some cleats to secure new decking to. Hopefully will have deck installed within a few weeks and then start the cleaning and re-assembly.

Nice job!

Nice project Tim! As you've gathered by my recent thread, I love boating. For us at least, there is no better family activity. Pretty hard for your kids (or grandkids) to be playing on a device when they are swimming or tubing.

Yep - that's for us too - until they get older and take your boat with all their friends..........

Nice work Tim.
It's so nice once all the funk and corruption is removed and the fresh material is going in.
Your glass work does look good, the time epoxy gives really helps with getting layup done well.

One concern is the ply bulkhead in the bilge. I would want to soak many applications of penetrating epoxy into that piece to prevent water getting to it in use.

Penetrating epoxy is much thinner than the laminating epoxy, and does a good job of soaking in to making wood more impervious to water.

That job will be so satisfying to get done. And get the boat back together for more family fun.

Cheers Richard

I pre soak the bottom raw edges of all parts prior to bedding them in place. All joints then are filleted and will receive a minimum of 3 layers of 17oz biax cloth with the final layer completely covering both sides of all stringers and bulkheads. Bilge will receive additional layers of cloth and epoxy over existing factory joints.

Excellent plan Tim, not surprising, knowing the work standard you persue.

With epoxy being so superior to polyester, some folk take shortcuts in layup counting on the resin to make up for the lack of effort and material.

It's allways fun watching your projects unfold.
Is this going to be your championship racing season?

Cheers Richard

Gonna take the racing one race at a time.... Until I have a bad night, the goal must be to win the championship. If I have a bad night and don't make an A-main, I will likely start looking at lakefront condo rentals for several weekends this summer and allow myself to skip some races.

You probably know this - but sherwin williams makes a great product that works in the bilge (paint) called Tile-clad. When ever I do wok like this - I like to put another layer of protection - and make it look nice .......... :)

Looks like you are doing it right.
My guess is that this boat has been sitting in the water uncovered.
Hopefully fiberglass rot has not set in.

It was a trailered boat its whole life. The water entered through screw holes in the deck then rot spread. While this type of repair is not rocket science, I will never buy another boat that was made prior to about 2000 by which time most manufacturers quit using plywood for stringers and bulkheads. My epoxy encapsulated repair will last much longer the factory's sloppy original polyester coated crappy joints so I am not too worried about ever doing it again on this particular boat.