What took me so long....sharpening chainsaws...
 

I've always sharpened chainsaws by hand...dad would occasionally take his to have 'em ground...poorly (I might add....wrong angle, too much ground, or uneven L vs R side)....no mas!

Picked up an Oregon chain grinder at Northern Tool recently....why didn't I do this 30 years ago ;)

Best $180 I've spent lately...

i just buy a new chain. don't use it enough anyway.

I did use my saw to cut railroad ties. might be worth it then. sharpen after each cut

I have 5 saws now....last chain I bought was like 23 bucks....just made sense for me. Key is to keep 'em sharp and never let them get dull...yep, RR ties would put a hurt on one...

At $20-$60 per chain, sounds like a good investment. I’ve got a Northern gift card from Christmas yet, I’ll look into it! Thanks KC.

Have you tried the WorkSharp knife sharpener yet?!?! Amazing tool there as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have 5 chains......I can cut a few cords each before dull enough to change.......Then I take them all to my saw shop about every 5 years and pay $4 each for a professional sharp............Works for me......

You have a better guy than dad had ;).

That's what he did too....but it was up to 8$/chain, and the guy sucked....I think he was either intentionally mucking up the chains or just clueless The last time one of my dad's Stihls had an issue starting (coil), a few years ago, he chastised us for being picky about only using non-ethanol and said 93 octane burned to hot and would destroy the motors...I never let my dad go back....I vote for clueless :).

I don't use my chain saw very often. I wear leather gloves and use a rat tail file on it for about ten minutes. Every two years or so I take my chain saw in and get a new chain put on for about $30 cdn. No charge for labor. Easy peasy.:)

I just can't do that....I don't have $30 cdn ;)

Life's hard down here in the south.....

i pay $5. i also have the files, but i suck at it.

anyone ever use a carbide tipped chain? i watched a man plunge his saw into the earth..it was unnerving to to watch.

I have one of the cheap HF electric sharpeners. It takes me (it seems like an eternity) 15 minutes or more to get a chain sharpened. It feels like 30 min. I dunno.

Then I found a guy who will sharpen them for $7 a chain.
Done deal- let me put this one in "a thing where you got your money's worth" thread.

You need to touch them up with a saw file when the chips start getting small and the cutting is slow. Don’t wait too long. Every few hours of use take it to someone who knows what he’s doing with a sharpening machine to sharpen the teeth, even them out, and lower the drags. You have to REALY be good to do that by hand.

I do just one stroke of the chain file every time I fuel up. The machines seem to take too much off. The angles are easy, Oregon chains have the angle marked on them and hold the file on a 15 degree angle downwards each side.

Yep, I always hit the chain a stroke or two every tank....got to. I'd never been a fan of the grinders...just as you state....but no mas ;)

It's under my control now...with finesse however...way more precise and consistent....hard to do by hand, particularly L vs R side....one side is always heavy handed over time it seems.

I dont use my saws that much but like most tools, when needed they better work. I was fighting a dull chain the other day and its just so frustrating. Went from big chips to almost powder in less than a tank. I dont think its too tough to manually sharpen but it takes some time. Does the 'lectric version do a better job or is just faster? Or maybe its up to the operator? I'm interested but for now I like the pferd 'magic' tool.

I bought a Harbor Freight chain sharpener to deal with my 5 chains, for my 20" Stihl MS310. I got really tired of $6-$7 per sharpening per chain from the local small engine mechanic.

This units works kind of like a chop say that grinds the angle you want when you pull it down. It has a brake to hold the chain in place, and multiple adjustments for depth, and angle.

The SE mechanic was grinding the chains too far (probably in an effort to warrant me buying new chains) so I started doing them myself. I find it almost theraputic to sit on my shop stool, and watch each link get sharpened for next to nothing $$. I suppose at some time, I will need to replace the thin grinding wheel, but I haven't ran out of adjustment yet.

Too much angle will get you an absolute chip throwing beast, but will dull quickly, and risk being chipped easily.
Too little angle will get you a chain that stays relatively sharp for a longer period, but may take more effort to make long cuts.

My dad has had one of the electric chain sharpeners for several years. I have about 5 or 6 chains that I sharpen, rotate and then sharpen when I'm on the last sharp chain. Oh man are those things nice!

My uncle has one of those he picked up really cheap....maybe half off for $25...sounds just like yours....he too has an arsenal of saws with multiple chains each...like I do. It's the proverbial, you get what you pay for imo. The entry level Oregon is a nice step up...we will both use mine from now on...

well - let me ask a question.

I only have experience with the 2 flea power HF sharpener. I have never seen an experienced chain sharpener do their thing. I also recognized the HF tool is probably a POS and not so hot.

That being said- the HF took (to me) seemed underpowered. The plastic body also seemed flexy and cheap...

However, I liked the flexible aspect in the sense I could just grab the motor/saw assembly and kant it like I preferred against the chain.

so.... How is the better sharpener better? Faster? easier alignment? As a HF customer, I am sure there is only one way to go from the bottom- up. But how is a good tool better?

(ps..I'm still going to send off my chains for $7 sharpenings:D my chain sharpener guy hate me- I drop off about 10-15 chains at a time).

The electric ones are better IF they are the kind that hold the cutter in a jig and vise and cut each one to the same size and angle. Filing by hand is imprecise and eventually the right and left cutters end up different angles and sizes. Plus it’s very time consuming to try to file all the drags to exactly the same height. Touch up the cutting edge frequently with the right file and have the cutters and drags reshaped occasionally by machine. When you’re using a machine it’s important to keep the right profile on the grinding wheel. As it wears the profile goes off.

I used to struggle with this too until I discovered this thing.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/

It is simply amazing and was way cheaper than $180. I use my saw all the time and I'm always cutting dirty wood that is tough on chains. I've had the same chain for three years now and my saw stays razor sharp.

It is a little hungry in this video because I filed the rakers low but I like it that way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TR4zIPvjHq0

I've got a sharpening stone (cylinder shaped) that I pop in my Dremel and go to town. Sharpening a dull chain takes no more than 2 or 3 minutes.

I have a Harbor Freight sharpener too. You have to know how to use it. Perhaps the more expensive ones do better, but the HF model can do the job.

The goal is to get the point sharp. The saw cuts with the TIP of the blade, not the flat part. The corner, not the edge.

I like to keep my Stihl chainsaw in good condition so I clean and sharpen it after every use. I bought the dremel attachment and some diamond bit for sharpening the chain. It’s pretty foolproof and takes just a few minutes I do use a hand file to keep the depth gauges at the right height.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-A679-02-Attachment-Sharpening-Gardening/dp/B003BIFMK6

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1516862831.png

I am trying to reduce tools that I don't use often. The chain saw may even qualify, but I sure don't need any sharpener!

It is $8 to sharpen the chain (well done) at the local Stihl dealer. I have 2 chains, so always one on hand ready to go on sharp. A new chain is 30 bucks or less.

So, for $180 I can have my chains sharpened 15 times and buy a couple new ones on top of it. Yes, I have to run to the store but it is close by, next to the post office and my wife knows what to do. :)

G

Dremel attachment tool is $15 though...
Hopefully you have the dremel already.

Can't "justify" the $180....don't have to ;). I did it really 'cause I wanted one...no regrets. This was an entry level Oregon....can't imagine what the ones 2x+ are like. Differences between the HF....more options on the adjustments (like the side-to-side on the tooth stop, etc.), and a firm clamp instead of the hand brake...but I never used the HF....just a glance. Some of my tiny Stihl chains dull fast (13' pole saw and little powerhouse TC....though I don't climb). I'm out in the woods, clearing storm damage, etc. on lots of acreage....I tote my 14" TC the most. Then move up to the beasts with longer bars if a larger tree....up to 20". Sorta like purchasing a log splitter a couple of decades ago after splitting manually for years....ain't going back....nosirreebob :).

I think I got my HF chain sharpener for $30 on one of their super sales....it works better than hand filing, and don't have to drive the 8 miles (and again to pick them up) to the small engine shop to have the chains done. One trip taking 4 chains paid for the HF unit.

There are very likely much better units out there, but I wanted to try it out to see if it were something I could, and was willing to do.

Ditto on the dremel. Any of you guys use full chisel chains? I won't go back to semi chisel. MS 270, 20 inch.

I usually sharpen the chains on the saw with a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder. If you have a good eye, this is the fastest and very sharp. I started doing this when I was replacing the oak sills on my 200 YO farm house. I cut all the joints with a chainsaw, but it was hell on the chains, working over a stone foundation.

I do this all the time now, and I don't suggest it to anyone, but it works for me, It is very fast if you use a chainsaw for demo work, or hit a lot of rocks. My chains come out very sharp, better than when I sent them out. I also have an electric bench sharpener in teh shop, but I rarely use it anymore. That is the best for most people.

Exclusively...several of my smaller Stihls came with "safe chains".... total crap, and a couple of dealers even said "won't work"....BS. Stihl has the green and yellow codes on bars and chains these daze....all my "green" bars wear "yellow" chains ;). If you have a "green" link on yer chain...well, that just won't make the cut in my world. Never had a kickback of note in my life....ever...technique is key.

Once...only once...didn't bother trying to remove the stain in my pants, just threw them out.

LOL...details man, details ;).

I saw a "rookie" tree service guy years ago...fresh out of the military....I just shook my head...

I remember reading the Reader's Digests magazines my parents got when I was much younger (teenager.) They always had those gross stories of life threatening events where the victim miraculously survives and retells the story.
One involved a young man with an injury around the PTO of a farm tractor. Yanked both arms off and he ran into the house and got in a bathtub so the floors wouldn't be stained from all the blood.
Another involved a chain saw injury. The victim was somewhat remote in a wooded area and experienced a kickback. He didn't think much of it other than being startled from it. Bent back down to continue the cut and realized blood was gushing out all over. It had cut up his neck near his shoulder blade and he was bleeding profusely. He was able to get through the woods to a nearby road and tried to flag down someone to help. I think he ended up getting in his own truck and driving himself to the hospital while applying pressure on the wound using his grubby t-shirt covered in blood and wood chips.

our landscape dept, saves a few bucks and dumps quality wood into our parking lot.

it just happened. free firewood. i bet there is 50-cords of wood right now. i am gonna pull some chunks within my chainsaw skills and season it for campfire wood.

it's on!! there is oak the size of my toyota tacoma in there!!

I have the pferd version of that, great tool. Still some room for error but pretty simple and consistent.

That would be a dream. I need some white oak for the boat and am running low on firewood, too damn cold here this winter!

My Mom made me promise I'd never use a chainsaw without taking a course.

The two day course was safety, how to use the chainsaw, and basic maintenance including sharpening (using a simple chainsaw file correctly - nothing gimmicky).

To summarize the safety side of it. Don't ever be looking straight down at the chain. No if, but when, you get a kickback it will cut your face or throat wide open. Always stand to the left of it, using the left side of the front handle. So the kickback will go harmlessly over your right shoulder.

yup. when i bought my chainsaw, the owner of the shop asked,"do you want the safety presentation?"
"yes"
"okay, have a nice..wait! did you say YES!?"
he dug around and found a video to play for me. uncovered a tube TV. i watched the video and took notes. hahah..about 30minutes long.
after the video, the owner asked if i had questions. he answered a few. i got a great homeowner saw, and i left the anti kickback guard on the front in place.

he showed me a few tricks. how to hold it to start,..it was time well spent!!

I've been cutting/splitting/stacking/burning about 4-5 honest 4'x4'x8' cords per year for 25 years now, and still respect a running chainsaw. I only once had a sprung limb come back and hit me in the head....didn't drop the saw, but rather bloody. The thing I have learned recently is to work in small segments, and rest in between. Getting fatigued is dangerous.

I've been using chainsaws for 45 of my 58 years....hell, I ain't even read the instructions, much less take a course on safety. I plan to get 'round2it one of these daze though...mebbe.

Then again, I've been shooting since I was 6....same, same.

But I've never eaten a pod of Tide....I took a two day course on that though ;)

I keed.....just the last sentence though.....gotta be safe....second nature to me with some stuff...

signed....

Lefty