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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Valencia Pa.
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Best way to cut formica/laminate counter tops
I have to make a bunch of complicated cuts to fit a used kitchen into one of our rental houses. Just wondering what the best way is to cut laminate counter tops. I have done a couple , and they turned out O.K. but, not perfect. I have used a laminate blade, with tape on the surface to keep from chipping, but this wont work on the backsplash, it is hard to make a nice straight cut with a sawzall( I have to join two pieces ). Any advice appreciated. Sometimes, I miss Milt
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,149
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Copeing saw might work for the back splash. Cut it long and finish it out with a sander to clean up any roughness.
I have uses a Roto Zip with great success cutting through old tops to install sinks. They make a special bit for plastics and laminates and you can adjust the depth of the blade to help you reach the radius in the backsplash. Much more versitle than a router for this job. Try cutting the backsplash and top from the backside.
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Parrothead member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Monmouth county, NJ USA
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Deeply score the laminate where you want to cut it with a utility knife first. Then use a circular saw with a very fine blade to cut just outside the score line. That will eliminate or reduce the chipping. Ive used this method for years with much success.
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I used a table saw with a carbide blade. Sounds like for some of your cuts, you can use a circular saw and do "plunge" cuts.....I think a sazall would chip the edges?
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Non Compos Mentis
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Off the grid- Almost
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Stick it on top of a scrap of plywood, use a router along with a strait edge.
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one of gods prototypes
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Yep...router all the way
![]() I've used lots of formica in custom audio instals with weird shapes and such. Harbor freight sells a decent little 1/4" router for 20-30 bucks, then get a decent flush bit, do the sides first, then the top piece. Glue it then router it.... Use a rubber roller and the right glue (let it get tacky before you stick the formica).....but you probably know that part ![]() On places the router doesn't fit I'll use a metal jig saw blade with the formica real close to a table edge and go real slow to keep it from chipping.
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You do not have permissi
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: midwest
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Glue it and wait a day for it to harden. Tape along the top where the edge is to mark the danger zone. Put something heavy on top to reduce vibration. Cut an inch away with cutoff wheel(carefully), and router the rest.
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: St Louis
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Flush trim bits
edge bevel bits WHITESIDE Laminate Trim Bits - Woodcraft.com Edit: to get in the corners I use a file.
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Rick 88 Cab Last edited by rick-l; 10-05-2009 at 12:24 PM.. |
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Can you cut the piece upside down with the circular saw? Use a 40 tooth carbide blade(if its a 7 1/4" saw?) and start with the splash first then the conterThe blow out will be on the underside and it will eliminate chipping. A good 14 or 20 tpi jig saw(I like Bosch) blade is also ok from the top side taped.
To joint them together, try a product call Joint Fastener by Knape and Vogt or Draw Bolts. They are made for jointing P-lam counters together. Don't worry about the seam chipping too much if its a rental? If not, try a little Seam fill at your local cabinet maker's supply house. Like wood putty for P-lam. Clean up with lacquer thinner. Forget biscits. It will never line up. With the Draw bolts, you can dial it in so close that its perfect. Jeff |
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Table saw.
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Brew Master
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Brew Master
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Fred,
Are you joining in a corner or on a straight run where two would butt together? A miter saw with a high tooth count and paying attention to the way the carbide teeth pass through the laminate works well. |
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Did you get the memo?
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wichita, KS
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Don't use a sawzall, it will chip the hell out of it.
A circular saw with a good sharp fine toothed blade or a sabre saw with a good blade will do it. To help prevent chipping put masking tape over the cutlines, mark on top of the masking tape, and then cut, it will help limit any chipping. If you are cutting an already made top it can be a challenge unless you have a good tablesaw with a big table. I've done it with a circular saw per the above and it has come out ok but not perfect. Mitre saw would work, but most don't have the reach to cut the width of a countertop, even sliding saws. If your cuts are going to be exposed or will be a seam between two pieces of countertop, it will be very difficult to get a straight enough cut that makes for a clean seam. Ideally your cut end would butt up against a cabinet or wall and you could hide the seam with caulking, trim, tile, etc. Maybe you could take it to a local lumberyard and pay them a little bit to cut it? They typically have a tablesaw or radial arm saw that would be up to the task.
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Fred - I hate working with formica so much, that I'd throw on 2 layers of 1/2" plywood(stagger the seams) and use a large tile so there are only a few grout lines. 1x2 oak on the faces, rounded over with a router, stained or painted to match cabs.
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If you are contouring the back splash to the wall, use a belt sander. Belt sanders are very handy for making fine adjustments of a counter top. Cutting an end from the back side with a circular saw and a 40 plus tooth carbide blade will prevent chipping, particularly if you use a straight edge saw guide of the type that the saw can't slip under. You can finish the backs pash cut with a speed square and the same saw.
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abides.
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Cold Steel katana.
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