Very few loaders will stay in place with the engine off...
Seals are no big deal though. Just keep your area CLEAN when doing them.

Does it look like the hydraulic cylinder was designed to be rebuilt ? What I mean by that are both ends or one end have some type of screw cap ? Many are built at the factory and then both ends are welded on . That type of cylinder can still be rebuilt but not as easily . One end has to be cut off , pull out the guts . Install new guts then reweld the end back on . Generally more of a pro job than a DIYer but if you can get a clean cut and can weld you can do it .

These can be rebuilt for sure.

Loaders will stay up unless the seals leak (most common issue), the valve leaks (this happens on the boom of my JD400), or you have a leak at a fitting.

I had a friends John Deere 4240 while my M7060 was at the dealer and the front loader arms stayed up for 2 months while my bale buster was connected to the rear remotes.

I get a catalog from Surplus Center. I love looking through it. I refurbished my home made log splitter (made with an inverted railroad rail and a 13 hp. HF engine) a couple of years ago by ordering a new cylinder and valve from them. Prices were decent, and they have a huge selection of different sized cylinders & valves, along with tons of other stuff.

So this one isn’t all that compact... I got my Case 2670 stuck this afternoon trying to relocate some snow piles...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1522025379.jpg

And here’s how it looked a few weeks ago pushing snow when it wasn’t stuck...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1522025445.jpg

The cylinders on the New Holland loader are the rebuild able type. I've found the part numbers and will look for a source today.

I used the tractor again yesterday to remove The last of tires, then parked it in the shop and found a leak in the right front axel, in the steering knuckle. and in looking closely found a couple of oil hoses going to the radiators that need replacement.

So the list grows which is not a surprise in this old of a machine. Still I feel that once these issues are worked thru that this will be a very usefull tool to have around.

I've also come to realize that good old country folks are just as able to lie to you straight faced as any one else. In both tractor deals the sellers clearly mis represented the condition of their rigs. And being so clueless myself about these machines I was ill prepared to clearly evaluate them. So tended to accept their clear statements about the condition of the tractors.
My mistake. But I do feel that this New Holland can be put into good serviceable condition with out too much effort, I hope.
I've got to track down a service and owners manual to guide my efforts. There is a bit to learn about the care and use of tractors for a newbie like me.

I do appreciate the knowledgeable support with you guys here, thanks.

Wow Unclebilly, That is a lot of snow! And clearly not a compact, what a beast!
What do you use to get something like that unstuck?

And I thought buying a set of tires for my motorhome was a chunk of change, wow!

Cheers Richard

A New Holland dealer ought to be able to supply the manuals. A place called Jensales may also have what you need.

After perusing CL off and on for about a year now and never finding exactly what I was looking for, I had started checking out dealers. I actually went to my local JD dealer last Friday and was going to get them to quote a new 1025R. Saturday morning I'm doing my almost daily CL check and something promising pops up. I went and checked it out yesterday and ended up buying it. 2010 John Deere 2305. 237 hours. Lightly used and in like-new condition. Essentially the same - spec-wise - as a 1025R but it comes with a few attachments and I got it for a fraction of what a new one would cost. Not nearly the hardcore stuff you guys have, but for my uses, this will work out great...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1522062797.JPG

Tevake good to hear the cylinders are rebuildable that should keep the cost down . Chasing hydraulic leaks on older equipment is part of the game . But once you get them solved that should be a good machine for you .

To get unclebilly's tractor out I think you need " spring thaw " !!! That is a big boy tractor . IROC nice score on the JD .

IROC - you will like that machine. My friend has one very similar and we use it all the time for light stuff. My son has driven it a few times going back to when he was 6.

Great score.

Mike, That's is one cherry looking J D you found, good hunting!

Cheers Richard

Very nice, IROC.

Since I have four trailers of various types and like to park them in the barn, I use the FEL and attached a hitch ball with one of these:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1522067304.gif

Same principle here (not my pic).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1522067304.jpg

It makes moving trailers around an absolute breeze - I put them in places I really wouldn't feel comfortable doing otherwise.

You can also get a perforated bar with pins on each end that go into the rear lift arms to which you can bolt a trailer ball for towing various trailers. The lift arms allow the trailer tongue to be raised a bit. I found this method to be useful as you are driving forward and other implements can be towed such as sprayers, rollers, etc.

That is key and why I do it!

The one I bought actually comes with an attachment that does this. I'm not sure if it's an actual JD part, but it's a weldment that interfaces with the 3-point via the JD quick-attach system and has a trailer ball on it. The guy I bought it from used it to move his boat trailer around.

I made something like that for my Yanmar.....http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1522082478.jpg

I bought something similar for $50. Mine also has an upper receiver for moving goose neck trailers. The issue is that you need to watch the clearance on the top link depending on the diameter of the eye on the top link (my factory one binds on my top link).

Mike, that's a beautiful piece of machinery. With only around 250 hrs. on it, you essentially bought a new tractor. Congrats!

I bought a very similar piece of steel as in Steve's pic above from Tractor Supply. The one I bought does not have a receiver but rather a plate with a hole thru which the ball stud goes.

The negative is using more than one size ball means unscrewing and replacing the ball. I said F-it and use the wrong size ball for simply dragging a small trailer around the spread.

That looks nice, it still has paint on the bucket edge.

Now you need some accessories!
Artillian Tractor Attachments - Light-Weight Heavy-Duty Attachments for Subcompact & Compact Tractors
https://heavyhitch.com/shop/
Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Home>>