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Fix a poorly molded DP tail?
Anyone ever "fix" a poorly molded DP tail?
This tail was on the car 6 or 7 years ago when I bought the car and has always bothered me. The reason for my delay in finding a solutionis the paint is nice and I'm about the only one that notices it. If I don't fix it i'm sure it will hurt resale some day..... So is there a choice? repair or replace? Either way it will have to be painted. Maybe a better pic is needed but the poorly molded area runs along the left side around the hinge to the top edge where the curve is high on the left side. I have spent quite a bit of time adjusting and this is as good as it gets. What do you recommend? ![]() ![]()
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Steve 1981 SC Steel Widebody Outlaw in Pacific Blue and Artic White, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, BLwur, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, DOD, DP Lid, 044 pump, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters. |
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,638
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question?
do you only have one strut mounted to the engine lid? I have seen this many times with customers bring us there car after a composite lid was installed on the car. using the wrong lift strut and only on one side twists the lid and doesn't let it sit properly. disconnect the lifting strut and readjust the way the lid fits. when you reconnect the strut and it sits wrong again you know the problem is caused from the strut. most every time a 2nd strut has to be added to the other side and two new lower pressure struts are required. adding a 2nd lift strut to the other side could be a hell job to do with the engine in the car. |
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Yes I have only one strut on the left and early on I thought that was the problem. Some cars actually have a mount for the right but not this one and yes I think the motor would have to be out to add one. After a lot of adjustments and even considering different hinges I tried setting the lid in place without the strut or hinges and saw the obvious problem. with the lid open looking toward the front at the left hinge the fiberglass is molded at an angle maybe 30* upward from left to right and includes where the hinge mounts. The right side is reasonably flat. The left front corner of the lid has a more severe curve on the left and then flattens toward the right causing the left corner to sit high and the right rear hit the stop early. I guess my best option is another lid since I think one could put a lot of work into this one and it still may have problems.
I have one of the old RUF intercoolers on this car and need to determine if a (normal) tea tray lid will even fit. ![]()
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Steve 1981 SC Steel Widebody Outlaw in Pacific Blue and Artic White, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, BLwur, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, DOD, DP Lid, 044 pump, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters. |
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,638
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I have been to the Fiberglass panel/s don't fit party so many times I can't count them all.
have you tried and place a washer/ shim between the rear most hinge bolt ( hinge and engine lid? ) this will often pull the lid down at the rear cowl area. you will still need to remove the lid strut as it always puts pressure on the hinge to open the lid. |
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With much experimentation I have found that a 1/2" spacer on both right hand hinge bolts is necessary to be able to close and latch the lid and keep the lid from hitting the right rear corner of the body, whether the strut is in place or not.
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__________________
Steve 1981 SC Steel Widebody Outlaw in Pacific Blue and Artic White, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, BLwur, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, DOD, DP Lid, 044 pump, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters. |
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