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Rennch on YouTube
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What should I spray on the car after welding?
While I'm working on my blasphemy build project (rennch.com/youtube) I'm attacking diferent sections of the car (drip rails, rust repair, lead filler, etc...).
Currently the car is essentially in bare metal, but I'd love to get a head start on whatever the next step is. At the moment, I'm finishing the section and spraying on some green rustoleum self etching primer. Is there something else I could (or should) be spraying on (with a can) as I go section to section repairing this thing?
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Michael O'Neal - 69 RSR Clone(ish) - The build: http://bit.ly/69porschersr 69 911S Blasphemy Build on YouTube Rennch Youtube Channel: http://rennch.com/Youtube Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_rennch_/ |
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You’re going to have to paint the backsides of all the welds and body cavities to prevent rust.
Spray the cavities with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. It is a very zinc heavy penetrating spray that seeps into cracks very well. Comes with a long wand to reach into palaces. Just make sure to put some covering on your floor, it will seep out. Then for an extra protection, after it dries, spray cavity wax in there. For the outside visible surface, any etching primer will work fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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I Second the Eastwood cavity primer. I have sprayed it in every hole I find...
Also, if something is going to be bare metal for a while I have been using eastwoods fast etch, I think there are a lot of these types of products out there that will kill any rust and put a protective coating on it. You just spray it on, and work it into the are with a red scotch brite pad for 15 minutes or so keeping it wet, and then dry it off with a towel. Then you are good to go for a long time until your ready to lay down the good primer, not the can stuff. I've only been using the can weld through primer when I am welding an area and I need to spray behind where I am welding and can't access it anymore. I did use some good 2K can etch primer when I first started on my project but now I just use the fast etch that way I can put down the high quality stuff when I'm ready.
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Rodney Nelson - '72 911T (Undergoing Full Resto), '82 SC (Grand Prix White) Gone for 20 yrs and now back, '86 951 (Guards Red) Caught Fire, '71 911T (Tangerine) Sold, '72 911E (Grand Prix White) Sold, '86 951 (Black) Sold, '79 SC (Grand Prix White) Sold, '71 911T (Irish Green) Sold |
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Don’t use rust oleum on your car especially out of a rattle can, do it once and do it right. Use a 2k epoxy or 2k etching primer followed by a 2k build primer. It’s easier and better in my opinion to use a chemical bond rather than mechanical. Shoot the epoxy let it flash then spray 2 or 3 coats of build primer. If you just shoot epoxy then let it sit your going to have to sand every inch so the build primer will adhere properly.
You can leave the car in bare metal and use some Hold tight 102 to keep it from rusting while you finish up body work then paint all at once. I’m doing a coupe conversion myself. |
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
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there are many ways to skin a cat so you have many options for protecting bare metal as your working on your car.
on many of our cars after stripping down to bare metal we will just spray one coat of epoxy over the hole car. like stated a 2K product is best to use. as for using an etch product this has some down sides to using it. the big one is many products can not be applied over the top or at least for a long ass time. you can do body filler work over an epoxy primer as long as the body filler you are using is appropriate to do so. not all body fillers are designed to be applied over paints and primers. I do not believe in the use of any bare metal protective coating in it's uses for protecting bare metals as a car its. the reason is if your stepping outside of the product line you have picked for your car than it could lead to problems with compatibility down the road. the corporations that make metal protectant products often are not CO's that also make a product line of automotive paint products. this gets into the mixing and miss matching of product lines and the loss of any coating warranty you may have. |
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Mike..."Blasphemy build"... poetic.
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Karl ~~~ Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2. 964 cams, SSI, Dansk 2 in 1 out muf, custom fuel feed with spin on filter Prior: '77 Copper 924. '73 Black 914. '74 White Carrera. '79 Silver, Black, Anthracite 930s. |
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Would like to add on to this question...
What is the correct order to do this with epoxy primer? Many cars I see get stripped, then immediately epoxy primed, then the body work starts which many times means the car gets sanded again and in spots, through the epoxy...or cutting happens and replacement patches need epoxied in again. Is it acceptable to strip the car, do as much metalwork as possible and then epoxy the entire thing at that point? |
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,641
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Quote:
you only need one coat of an epoxy primer to protect the bare metal so it's not like your applying lots of product back on the car. when it comes to doing your body filler work many of the body fillers today you can go right over a cured under coating like epoxy primer. the thing to may sure of is that you pick a primer you can go over with a body filler and the body filler you pick you can also use over a primer. there is no need to apply more epoxy primer over the body filler just the bare metal areas around your body filler work. there is also no need to spray more epoxy over areas that are already covered on the car you did not disturb. you would only need to scuff the previously applied epoxy to give it the proper tooth for your filler primer to bite into after your body work is finished. |
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Great advice, subscribe.
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Its easier asking dumb questions than fixing dumb mistakes 1974 Porsche 911 Coupe, RSR Project 1976 Porsche 911 Targa, Black 1986 Porsche 911 Carrera, Black 2006 Porsche Cayenne S, Black |
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Nice customization !!!
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I am doing something similar. However, I returned the self etch primer as the primer manufacturer lab advised me that it is not the way to go. I am advised to wash the car with a metal conditioner. I am using POR15 as in Canada that is find locally. Then I will prime the entire car with 2K epoxy primer as advised. Sheet metal patching and replacing to follow.............
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Good day All,
For those who use the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, is there any real issue with dirty/dusty surfaces inside of the frame rails? I am wondering if it is OK just to try to blow out the areas with compressed air before application or to try to wash them out with a power washer. |
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