Rolling Restoration - What Primer to use????

[Robs72T]

So I think I am going to be doing a rolling restoration for awhile. Meaning repair a panel, prime it, drive it, strip something, prime it, drive it.


So the question is what type of primer should one use that will standup without paint (anytime soon).

Or...... do people prime something, drive for year(s), and then when it's "go" time do they strip, reprime, and shoot paint?


Just trying to figure this out, because I know this is going to be a L...O...N...G process.


Thanks

[Axiom]

Do you have a plan as to how are gonna attack this beast, that quarter panel looks challenging.

A good epoxy primer is good to protect the bear metal areas.

Keep us posted.

[haycait911]

as soon as possible after bodywork is done, etch primer lightly on bare metal areas, then 2 coats of epoxy over entire panel. I like black, makes it easy to see through the high-build when blocking. I drove my car for almost two years in various (and changing) combinations of black epoxy, grey highbuild, and the original yellow. the epoxy will chalk/fade when exposed to the elements but no harm. 2 GOOD coats, don't skimp. when ready for high-build, soap and water wash, dry, degrease, sand in 280 grit to cut the suface only, degrease, and put on the high-build (primer-surfacer).

[sballard]

Would it be OK to just use rattle can primers like Speis Hecker or even 3M weld-thru to prevent flash rusting when working relatively small areas and remove it later when you are ready to prep the whole body for painting?

[haycait911]

no. to prevent moisture penetration you need an activated product. it's really not worth using rattle cans and having rust getting to the surface underneath. can you ever be absolutely sure you have perfectly clean metal again before painting?

ppg primer has a week pot life and a cheapy spray gun is less than $50. etch primer does come in a spray can for underneath the epoxy.