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Rennch on YouTube
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Block Sanding a 911: Tools and methods?
Hi guys,
I'm about at the time where I need to start sanding to prep for paint. I've heard that "regular" blocks are about useless for us. Can a pro share some secret tricks and tools (Homemade, store bought, etc...) that can help point us in the right direction? Thanks! Mike
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Michael O'Neal - 69 RSR Clone(ish) - The build: http://bit.ly/69porschersr 69 911S Blasphemy Build on YouTube Rennch Youtube Channel: http://rennch.com/Youtube Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_rennch_/ |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Louisville, Ky
Posts: 73
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I bought a set of Dura Blocks to use on my 911. They make several different style of blocks that are made of thick rubber that contour better than convential blocks. The set I have came with a tubular shaped block that works really well with curvy panels.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: north america
Posts: 2,228
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Great topic.
I have been sanding my 911 with normal 11inch +6inch sanding block and been having a heck of a time on the rear quarters. I have tried probably 4-5 times to get rid of a small bump that my hand can feel and I just cant do it and and the cars is going to be BLACK.... makes me feel like I should have chosen a lighter color. Any trick tools out there? |
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Rennch on YouTube
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I've heard of people using foam tubes cut to length, or even really thin plywood that flexes...almost veneer.
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Michael O'Neal - 69 RSR Clone(ish) - The build: http://bit.ly/69porschersr 69 911S Blasphemy Build on YouTube Rennch Youtube Channel: http://rennch.com/Youtube Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_rennch_/ |
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When dry blocking with 80 a regular paint stick should help you. Primer and more blocking is is often in order. The trick is how astute you are to feeling and sanding smooth.
Good luck. Regards,
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Bernard |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 912
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Dura-Blocks work very well for those tuff contours like the quarter panels. I like to use a plane flat block on quarters. Be very careful though that you DO NOT loose sanding with the contour. I make long strokes that follow the contour so as not to dig into the panel solely with the edge. If it sound hard that's because it it.
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VINTAGE SPORTSCAR RESTORATIONS www.vsrestorations.com freddie@vsrestorations.com Freddie Hernandez (541) 535-3304 |
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Rennch on YouTube
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Thanks Freddie, et al. Where do I get Dura-Blocks?
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Michael O'Neal - 69 RSR Clone(ish) - The build: http://bit.ly/69porschersr 69 911S Blasphemy Build on YouTube Rennch Youtube Channel: http://rennch.com/Youtube Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_rennch_/ |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: MS.
Posts: 2,322
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Herman, what is the primer/paint color of the area that you are sanding, that has the bump? Is it body filler color, does it have primer already applied, if so what color? If you can feel it, it is still there. Regardless of what color it is where the bump is located, apply a very light guide coat, in a contrasting color, to that area. You don't want to have anything more than just a light dusting effect, so you can see the offending bumps contour, with just a few light passes with the sanding block. Once again, DO NOT apply more than just a light dusting or fogging effect, of a contrasting color paint. Pretty much any rattle can, in your preference of color is fine. I use flat paints when I spray a guide coat, so I have several different colors of flat on hand. Also, you say you are using a 11"x6" sanding block? do you have any smaller? If so, try one of them. You should be able to knock out that bump quickly. Good luck!! Tony.
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84' Steelslantnose Cab. 1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles 1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles 1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY 1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK* 1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow Newest additions- Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!! 1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles others... |
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The guide coat product I use is the 3M powder. Very easy to work with. I'm using the durablock and one long (18 in or so green foam rubber block I got from Eastwoods). You can very the flexability of it by removing or inserting steel rods. I have also used 1.5 inch foam pipe insulation cut in various lengths for the contour areas. Also for small paces where I need to use a body filler (Rage) or putty to fill a depression, I use a wooden tongue depressor wrapped in 400 or 600 grit.
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Robert Williams 70' 911T |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: MS.
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Oh yeah! There is one tool box in my shop that is just for the body tools. I keep everything in there from grit sheets and pads to various finishing blocks and the air/electric body tools. I even made some very small silica dusted popsicle sticks. Some time, you just can't go buy just what you need, so I have a lot of different type blocks that I have been made over the years.
Doing bodywork, is really a very effective stress reliever, not that I go and smack things around, just to have something to work on...
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84' Steelslantnose Cab. 1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles 1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles 1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY 1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK* 1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow Newest additions- Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!! 1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles others... |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 912
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emptyo, I got my set of Dura-Blocks from these folks. Use the guide coat the other guys have mention...it works wonders and keeps your blocking honest no dips or dings. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com
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VINTAGE SPORTSCAR RESTORATIONS www.vsrestorations.com freddie@vsrestorations.com Freddie Hernandez (541) 535-3304 |
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