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Mark Wilson
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How do I treat this surface rust?

This hood was stripped many years ago and left. Good thing is that it was dry west Texas. Sanding the surface rust is easy, but getting into the millions of rust pits are the problem. Restoration guy that looked at it said the only way to do it right is have it dipped. I hate doing that cuz the factory paint on the inside is perfect.

What I'm looking for is step by step to get through the epoxy primer step. I read Fhernandez threads, but I think this surface rust is some worse than his was. thx



Old 05-17-2009, 02:08 PM
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if that hood came into my shop i would put it in the metal dumpster ! your not restoring a car that hoods are rear so find a good used one or better yet get a new one .
Old 05-17-2009, 04:34 PM
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why would you take a chance on that?
there are plenty of rust free hoods out there.
+1 dumpster.
Old 05-17-2009, 04:46 PM
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Mark Wilson
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It's the original lid on a low mile 73S. Like I said, the factory paint and undercoat on the bottom is perfect. I really want to save it if at all possible. I don't mind elbow grease. Just looking for tried and true method.
Old 05-22-2009, 05:00 PM
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i think your nuts ! its not like its a hand formed hood to an old Bugatti or stutz . its a mass-produced stamped hood to a 1973 porsche . by getting another hood in better shape . you will be making you car worth more . its not like hoods have matching numbers . you could dip the hood . it will cost you more to do that then getting a used one . you could media blast it . that could warp it ? then you will be doing even more plastic work on the hood . is it sits now with all the pits you will be doing plastic work from front to back and side to side . now think about this . just one little rust spot the size of a pencil point will come back . how if you sand the hood you can sand off all the rust from the top of the substraight but how are you going to get the rust out of all the little pin holes ? your hoping there is some thing to do that ? no there isn't ! not a long lasting way ! the hood you have is a P.O.S. !!! it was a good hood but now is junk !!! your painting the car so you will have the paint to shoot the under side of a new hood . so what will that cost ? a red sanding pad , sealer and top coat . and then gess what ???? you will still have a hood with the under side in good shape ! i just did a search for a used hood on my LKQ parts look up . the cheapest one was 225.00 with 2 dings some chips and far paint in tan . out of the 12 hoods i found it toped out at 480.00 for a AAA grade hood .

Last edited by 962porsche; 05-22-2009 at 09:53 PM..
Old 05-22-2009, 09:46 PM
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i'd rather have a perfect top and a rusty underside.
don't let originality get in the way of practicality.
Old 05-23-2009, 05:56 AM
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With all due respect to '962porsche', I don't think that your hood is beyond saving with proper chemical treatment which YOU can do. Do you think that every Hot Rodder who pulls an old heap out of a barn sees the rust shrugs their shoulders and pushes it back in again? I'm not saying that it doesn't require any effort and I'm also not saying that everyone with a shiny hot rod dealt with the rust properly. In the end, what's your free time worth? It it worth your while?

Tim K
Old 05-25-2009, 10:50 AM
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tim i have owned a restoration shop for 16 years now and have been in the biz for over 30 years . and yes ! if need be the hood could be repaired with proper chemical treatment its called (dipping) ! thats just one of the things we do to the panels that you can't get . the other is make the panel . and thats what we did to the old stutz we just restored . so why don't you tell mark how to remove the rust with just some elbow grease . the thing is that the cost of the supplys will cost more than just getting a used hood . the old cars that your talking about that get pulled out of the barns . eather need to be sand blasted or dipped . now if you want to try to repair the hood get some metal prep wash and rust-mort with some chromated primers and have at it ! and in 2 or 3 years when the rust starts coming back after you spent all that time and money to repair a hood that was junk from the start . i won't say i told you so !!!

Last edited by 962porsche; 05-25-2009 at 06:32 PM..
Old 05-25-2009, 06:29 PM
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First of all, don't put words in my mouth. Who said that "elbow grease" was all that is necessary to remove the oxidation from his hood? Instead of trying to get into a pissing match, why not draw on your 30 years in the "biz" and get our friend a good straight, rust free hood to his front door for less than the cost of the supplies.

Fhernandez has put together some fantastic DIY threads. He is always very helpful. I hope you find some answers you are comfortable with.

Tim K
Old 05-25-2009, 08:31 PM
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tim my apologys ! i'm not trying to get into a pissing match with you ! knowing what this hood looks like its alot more than just oxidation . its pitted and pitted badly. and no you never said elbow grease but you did state about spending time and worth of your time . but in the body repair business your using materials as you spend time working on something . if your spending time sanding then your using sand paper that cost money for the paper . if you spending time working on a panel like that hood than your spending money on the products your using to repair it . and it would be cheaper in the long run to just find a good used hood .

Last edited by 962porsche; 05-26-2009 at 07:26 PM..
Old 05-26-2009, 04:52 AM
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get a hood, they're clearly saying.

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Old 05-26-2009, 03:26 PM
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Yeah, that hood is pitted too badly man.. sucks because its gonna fit perfect when you put it back together and with a new hood its not and its gonna be a little work.. but much less work that if you did the following to fix it:

Pour acid on it until the rust is gone.
Wipe it with a baking soda solution and then wipe it with pure water.
Paint it with an acid etch primer.. a good one (one coat is enough)
4 coats of high build primer
sand smooth


Done.

In reality the above does not cost you much more in materials.. not really anyway.. acid is cheap enough.. and you should use a build primer anyway on any car that is down to metal like yours needs to be..

You might need to skim some deep rust before you prime with a quick sand body filler but I cant tell from the photos.. probably though.. just a quick skim and sand it smooth.. not much time really. I would acid etch prime it FIRST though in this case.


So its a money vs. time thing.. in a body shop time is more expensive than buying body panels and thats why you are hearing what you are hearing.


EDIT: something to consider.. the experts here can align a hood to the fenders and so on quickly.. can you? I can't.. takes hours.. if that hood is original it will align quickly even if you r&r it back on the car. Assuming its aligned now??? if not.. get a new hood. lol.

Edit again: aligned means consitent approx 3mm gaps all around and the height is good everywhere.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:48 AM
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Osfo. DA. Osfo. skim coat of filler. sand. prime etc.... If you REALLY wanted to save it...but used would be better as they are easy to find and heck, you might find one for a 73 in that color w/ a perfect underside! You never know....
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:19 PM
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Surface rust is only part of it.
The fact that it has deeper pinhole size rust craters all over, means the hood is in bad shape.

Through the shiny metal of the sanded surface, you see the brown glow from the rust in those holes; you wont get to that.

This is a straightforward scrap item, or hang it on the wall as piece of art.

Alternatively you could sand it, prime it, coat it; and watch the bubbles show up over time...
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Old 06-06-2009, 01:38 AM
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how do you fix a car like this i pick 1 up some ass sand blasted then let sit the car is all like that (and its got a good body shell so its not geting tosed)
help me
Old 06-27-2009, 05:58 AM
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