'67 912 Type 4 Body Work Thread

9magazine · 02-08-2009, 03:55 PM

Okay, this weekend I started to sand down my '67 912 coupe. I picked the left rear fender to start with. I found bondo as thick as 1/4 inch towards the end of the fender where it meets the tail light. I kept thinking I would find rust, or big dents.. Nothing!

I then worked my way to the area below the quarter window, there again on the edge near the door, I found bondo built up to well over 1/4 inch. The whole fender had some degree of bondo on it.

Next I find two holes, looks like gun shots!!! And then some odd dimples, like a bunch of BB's where shot at the fender. Last, I found these weld holes, or at least that is what I think they are.

What do you guys think???

Brian
www.9magazine.com
CLASSIC AND TUNER PORSCHES MAGAZINE

KevinP73 · 02-10-2009, 10:24 AM

The verticle row of holes are from the old style dent puller, also known as a "morgan knocker". The little BB llike dents are from the body guy trying to"shrink" the metal back down to it's original shape.
Not pretty !!

9magazine · 02-10-2009, 01:25 PM

Kevin,

Should I cut this out and weld in a another piece?

Brian
www.9magazine.com

KevinP73 · 02-10-2009, 01:29 PM

If it were mine I think I'd consider replacing the quarter completly. Although one of those quarters may be hard to find.

Iowa911 · 02-12-2009, 06:37 AM

Brian
I have rear quarters in very good condition if you are interested. Send me an email if you are.
primage1@mchsi.com

Dean

KevinP73 · 02-12-2009, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iowa911

Brian
I have rear quarters in very good condition if you are interested. Send me an email if you are.
primage1@mchsi.com

Dean

Sounds like a great deal if you two can agree on a price.

9magazine · 02-16-2009, 05:59 PM

This weekend I had the opportunity to sand down the right side rear fender. What a relief that this panel is almost perfect. It has the same 1/4 inch build up on bondo on the back of the fender by the tail light... but just a skim coat of bondo most every were else.

Am going to have my body guy this week to see how to handle the left side rear fender damage.

Might be taking Dean up on his offer.

Brian
www.9magazine.com

Iowa911 · 02-16-2009, 06:10 PM

No hurry on my end. They're here if you need them. Glad to hear you had good news on the other side.

9magazine · 02-16-2009, 06:20 PM

Dean,

You rock, looks like 5 to 8 inches of snow tonight, so might be end of week.

Brian
www.9magazine.com

9magazine · 02-17-2009, 06:39 AM

Here is a photo of the right side rear fender, not the best photo due to the angle, but you get the idea.

Also took time to clean up the lower corners of the rear window and package shelf, OH BROTHER!!! Ok body shop GODS... ideas for this?

Brian
www.9magazine.com

Iowa911 · 02-17-2009, 09:27 AM

It's hard to tell in these photos how is the parcel shelf?

9magazine · 02-17-2009, 10:02 AM

Dean,

The package shelf is also swiss cheese, hell it has several holes in it...

Brian
www.9magazine.com

Iowa911 · 02-17-2009, 10:20 AM

I have one of those too.

Classic · 02-17-2009, 11:46 AM

I'd go a donor cut for the parcel shelf.

If you have access to a roller or even a large diameter pipe to form the shape of the engine lid and get or make EZ EDGE
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=EZF&Category _Code=MWH
to form the inside.

Not that hard, just slow if your like me and learning as you go.

Option B would be see if you can get a clip for the whole area.

KevinP73 · 02-17-2009, 12:40 PM

I just went thru this on a '70 that I restored. Making this area really isn't too hard providing you have the right tools.

9magazine · 02-25-2009, 10:00 AM

Kevin,

What is the best tool to use to cut out the metal around the rear window? I have a sawsall or should I use something else!???

Brian
www.9magazine.com

KevinP73 · 02-25-2009, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9magazine

Kevin,

What is the best tool to use to cut out the metal around the rear window? I have a sawsall or should I use something else!???

Brian
www.9magazine.com

I use a small panel saw. It's easier to get into those tight places and make precise cut.

Tim K · 02-25-2009, 08:29 PM

+1. I think we're talking about the same thing (i.e. a pneumatic body saw).

I use hack saw blades cut into sections as they're much cheaper than the replacement blades. I use blades with 32tpi for a thin clean cut.

However, for the repair below I used a regular hack saw so I could cut clear through in one pass. I needed to remove a section of the outer window frame to more easily repair damage underneath. The same repair was done on both sides. It's difficult to see, but I welded a temporary support to the under side of the package tray as it becomes very flimsy when these pieces are removed. It can be difficult find where the lower window frame 'belongs' when you've lost it's alignment. The thin cut created by the fine tooted blade made it easy to weld the piece back in. I also use thin blades (0.045") in my pneumatic angle grinder and zip saw where it's convenient.

The rust damage you've got is obviously much worse. Have you tried sourcing a section from a donor car?

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Tim K

9magazine · 02-26-2009, 05:17 AM

Tim,

Dean has a package shelf that he has cut out of a doner car, should I cut out the shelf first, weld it in, then tackle the lower rear window corners?

Brian
www.9magazine.com

PS: Will visit Sears this weekend and pick up one of those tools! More power tools!

Tim K · 02-26-2009, 08:56 PM

Brian,

Maybe I should explain my rationale for what I did. The area of the package shelf that was damaged (rust) was directly over the deck lid hinge bracket. I could have temporarily removed the bracket and done the repair from underneath. It may have been easier. However, the section of the lower window frame which was removed also required rust repair. If I was to do it again I may have done the repair from the underside and left the window frame intact. What if...

For your window frame/package tray I’d try and get a replacement package shelf and the complete lower window frame (from drip rail to drip rail) from a donor car and replace this lower frame section in one piece. Can you confirm that Deans parcel shelf section is big enough to replace all (or most) rust damaged areas?

For the repair process my feeling is this: Considering the rust damage, I would ensure that the existing frame is rigid enough to maintain it’s shape while replacing / repairing the package tray. Brace it if necessary from above. When the package tray is offered up to the existing window frame, brace it from underneath so that it’s alignment is maintained while the window frame is being replaced. I hope that made sense.

Also, my tendency is to avoid fully welding stuff like this until proper alignment with all surrounding panels is verified:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim K

Hope this helped. Keep asking questions where you need some opinions / direction.

Tim K