High Build Primer preferences

mcaterino · 12-01-2009, 08:20 PM

Hi folks,

As I near the end of the bodywork phase of my 1970 targa restoration, I'm faced with all kinds of questions. First I'll say that I have some, but minimal experience with serious body work, and am learning as I go. More details on my whole project are available here: Restoring a 1970 911T and here: My restoraton blog.

So I've just about finished with the body filler work (Evercoat Rage Extreme) which is going on over Eastwood's Epoxy Primer. I'm planning on sealing all the filler with an additional coat of Epoxy Primer, and then on to high build primer. I'm interested in opinions and guidance on this.

I'm aware that I should be thinking in terms of a 'paint system', and I'm more than likely going to go with PPG 2 stage Envirobase (and am leaning strongly toward doing my own paint, but that's a thread for another time), as this is all I can get here (Southern California) in Tangerine. My local supplier is pushing PPG NCP280, as is suggested in Freddie Hernandez's 101 series. I have no doubt that this is excellent primer, but it's also $380.00/gallon.

So my question really boils down to - what makes this so vastly superior to the wide range of $50-80 high build urethane primers out there (all of which claim to be compatible with all top coats)? Are these claims of compatibility optimistic or outright untrue? I'm really not that cheap, but that seems like a lot to spend on something that's mostly going to be sanded off.

Thanks,
Mike

laire · laire's Garage

Hi mike , Putting the epoxy primer on what I guess was bare metal is a excellent thing to do . At this time if it were me,I would only be concerned with too much build up of materials when it's all done . [how will that coat of epoxy primer help later} The high build primer that you use should have no problem adhering to the body work and you will most likely sand thru most of it at least once when you are blocking . Dont make it thicker than you must!
As far as the price of primer you may not always get what you expect ,some primers get so hard you can hardly sand it ,it's like concrete , Any way I've been using a primer called Gen Tec for a few years /I've had good results as far as scratch hold out and no shrinkage I live in the sacramento valley in nor.cal and I know that Calif regs. make it hard to get and use some of these materials depending where you are this Gen Tec is around $150. per gallon W/ hardener here is a phone number for this company 1-888-374-7944 hope this number still works

, laire

962porsche · 12-02-2009, 06:18 PM

you will at this time only need EP primer on bare metal that are in sizes bigger than a quarter . becouse with most ep primers you only need one or at most 2 medium coats mill biuld is not an issue . as for using high build primers . YES do so . just follow the manufactures guide lines for tip size on the gun, number of coats, flash times and so on . the only time things don't come out right are when peaple don't follow the guide lines . there are many things that make primers cost deferent amounts . the quality and grade of the talcs , resins and binders used . its not what lands on the floor that matters its all about hold down and srinking in . becouse in the body business it's put it on and sand it off . right from the first coat of plastic body filler to the compond before the car goes out the door . what you don't want are things coming back from under the color coats and clear . with lesser primers you have to make dam sure there are NO sanding marks from sand paper grits heavier than a 120 grit cut .

GradyM · 12-03-2009, 06:47 AM

You might want to consider the amount of work you have gone through to get to this point.Does it make sense to worry about cost on the final and almost most important stage? Porsches were and I believe still are finished with Glasurit at the factory.German,high quality paint. European cars were using a base clear two stage paint long long before anyone else,they have it dialed and in my opinion being a tradesman for 20 plus years Glasurit is the best product PERIOD!
They have many different primers and a very good California compliant basecoat called 90 line.

robmog · 12-03-2009, 11:09 AM

i used ppg prima k36 as my high build primer sealer.
it was reasonably priced, sprayed well and sanded easy.
and i used ppg paint for my finish paint too.
re glasurit paint, i agree its the best however i think its a waste of money if you diy.
as a beginner, have realistic expectations about your painting ability.
you will use(waste) much more paint than a pro and the results probably won't be any better than with less expensive paint.

whiskyb · 12-03-2009, 03:03 PM

I am roughly at the same point in my restoration. I have done a huge amount of research and questioning on these same questions. One of the best primer/paint/clear companies you will ever deal with is a company called Southern Polyurethanes.
Their product is found at http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product%20lines.htm Their is an excellent write up for a perfect paint job here http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm and a users forum here SPI Users Forum :: Index If all else fails and you need any advice or help the owner himself has his phone number and cell number listed at their site. he is a great guy and is their to help all he can. You will find their products on many high end custom jobs and restorations.

I have no affiliation just a happy customer

mcaterino · 12-03-2009, 07:43 PM

Laire, Bob, 962, and Grady,

I deeply appreciate all your suggestions and insights. I'll look into all those options. I wonder why my PPG guy hasn't mentioned the K36. I'll have to ask. Southern Polyurethanes does have a very nice web site. I may pay them a visit when visiting the folks in Atlanta in a few weeks.

It's going to be a tough call in the end. I do want this to end up presentable. But if at every 'you get what you pay for' moment I said screw it and went for the top, I'd be, well, 10 times deeper in debt from this project than I already am. If this was really the end I'd be more inclined to go for it, but I've got an engine rebuild still ahead of me, and the truth is a car that's fun to drive is more important to me than one that looks perfect.

Decisions, decisions.. My girlfriend wonders why I lose sleep over this project.

Cheers,
Mike