yes it has gone school yard and for that i'm sorry . i don't mind a good debate and i see no reason to have to add sarcasm to posts . for some reason people think sarcasm is ok to do on forums when they would not do it face to face in person . its just wrong !

You know what strikes me as funny? Everybody has so much to say BUT, only 962 has given any sort of coherent detail to their reasoning. Right or wrong (but I'm going with right) he has referenced diameters, sizes, grades, strengths, etc. Given reasons why he stated those size etc.

He did in-fact answer the posters original question(s)

which was about moisture between the mounting plate and the body of the car. He advised using a weld through primer and gives a reason why.

The next question the poster posed was. does he need to weld the circumference or just tack. 962's answer was to weld around. and asks the bars intended purpose and asks about a harness.

The original poster replies and says yes the bars primary purpose is to anchor a harness. 962 then explains the issues that he sees with the recommended issues.

No one else has given any input to why he is wrong or they are correct. Only attacked him for his answers.

Hey Esquire, You should take your time and re-read the "instructions". You missed the whole point of the post. It asks none of what you state.

I hope esquire isn't referencing lawyer? Because if it is, your clients are in deep doo, doo.

yeah he's my hero too, mostly because of all his prestigious claims.
apologies to Wayne for mucking up his board, and to the OP and the manufacturer (also a prominent Pelican, and trusted Pelican supplier) for getting to the point where his $900 roll bar is considered a piece of trash by a self-proclaimed expert.
unsubscribed
Bob S.

I guess you re-read and found you were in fact wrong.

its not the cost that makes a roll bar good its how its made and then how its mounted ! all the DOM seamless tubing cost the same !so most roll bars cost about the same . you should not have any animosity toward me for not liking a design of a roll bar . the bar its self is ok its the mounting that i don't like and could be much better . autopower , OG , and others make good bars with better mounting points . when your looking to install a roll bar you have to ask your self just what i want it for . if it is to do some time trials and DE events then 1st never shop for the lowest cost one . look at the mounting and what tubing is used to build it . then am i going to hook my belts to it . if so then look for one that has the best cross bar for belts and the best mounting points . remember it has to do with safety !!!! my friend rob does not have his belts hooked to the roll bar they run to the back of the car to welded plates . he like i feal that the bar would not hold up in a real bad crach with the extra load of a driver . think safety ! the same goes for your helmet . i my self never go to an event with no less than 3 helmets most of the time i will take 4 or 5 . is it over kill maybe ? i don't wear a wet helmet there not as safe . i also don't buy cheap helmets if you have a 200 dollar head then get a 200 dollar helmet . last year one of my helmets rolled off the top of the car . it was a 1400 dollar helmet . i never will wear it again . it has a real nice airbrushing on it but once a helmet takes an impact it becomes no good . what it comes down to is safety ! so you have to look at all safety gear the same way . its not about cost or it good enough it has to do with your life and just what that cost is . do you love your kids ? would you like to be there for them ?

I know I shouldn't post this and should just let this thread die the slow agonizing death it has but... I just came across these photos on an IROC build. It appears to be a bar of similar design as the OP's bar. The plate is welded all the way around. I am not saying this is right or wrong I just came across it and thought I would post for reference.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301081883.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301081899.jpg