1986 single stage or 2 stage

Ruflife · 06:21 PM

This may be covered somewhere else in the forum but I can't find it. I am getting ready to do a repaint on my Black 1986 911 TL Cabriolet ( non metallic ). Car has been through a previous repaint with base coat/clear coat 2-stage system. Was the original factory paint a single or 2-stage system. I would prefer to use a single stage system for ease of operation but want to stay true to factory as possible. Any thoughts on durability. Thanks.

rickharrison · 03-22-2011, 11:04 AM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but solid colours were single stage paints...very tough and durable finish.

ROW911SC · 03-23-2011, 04:15 AM

I've been researching a repaint for my '81 SC (GP White); the overwhelming majority of shops I've spoken with concur that its much easier to spot repair and color match a base coat/clear paint job, especially with metallics. So the choice seems to be between originality (single stage) or maintenance (two stage).

Ruflife · 03-23-2011, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LenS

I've been researching a repaint for my '81 SC (GP White); the overwhelming majority of shops I've spoken with concur that its much easier to spot repair and color match a base coat/clear paint job, especially with metallics. So the choice seems to be between originality (single stage) or maintenance (two stage).

If my 911 was white , I would definitely go with a single stage. My 951 is Alpine white and it is easy to touch up. White just hides almost everything. I am more concerned about durability on a daily basis.

Bob Kontak · Bob Kontak's Garage

My jobber says single stage is much easier to maintain. It's six of one and a half dozen of another. I think it has to do with what they (painters) are used to. I bet my jobber cut his teeth on single stage.

I am real real happy with the durability of the single stage 22 Line I applied seven years ago.

How many buyers out of 1,000 who want a "driver" Porsche will freak out about a nice looking BC / CC paint job? About three.

However, original is original,and for an SC a very good (not stunning) complete professional paint job will cost 2/3s of what the car is worth so I would want to maximize my return (minimize my loss) and use Glasurit single stage.

962porsche · 03-28-2011, 06:26 PM

your 1986 porsche was a single stage color . from 1991 on porsche started to use on most of there solid color cars base clear system . whether its a B/C or single stage there is good and bad with eather . when your talking about the finish being durable in what way are you referring to it ? they will both chip and scratch just as ez . as for sun damage the single stage color will not hold up as good as a B/C finish . but with a single stage color if it does fade you can at times buff a shine back to it . were a B/C system once the finish dies thats it its time for a re paint . now i'm not saying you can't to some degree buff a damaged B/C finish back up . but when the clear yellows or starts to look bad thats it its done . as for doing spot repairs one is no easier than the other . its a matter of just knowing how to repair the deferent types of finishes . with B/C most sprayers (not painters) will blend out the color over the repair area and then clear the hole panel . were with a solid color you can just do a spot blend mid panel . now as i stated not painter . that comes down to whether the person is a sprayer or painter most shop now a days only hire sprayers and not painters . there paint skills are much lower as is the cost to imploy them . they can't match colors all that well and if the paint repair is not in the every day routine they are lost . they would tell you that a mid panel spot repair blend can't be done all that ez . on the down side of a mid panel solid color blend is that if some time down the road you want to buff up the finish you could buff the blend that was done . but the same could also be true on a B/C repaint on the roof of a 911 were if the painter did a clear coat blend down the A-pillers and around the rear glass . what i do in my shop is if the cars OE finish was single stage then thats what goes back on the car just as if the cars oe finish was B/C then thats the finish we will use for that . its ez to tell just what the finish is . all you do is take a piece of 1500 or 2000 grit paper dry and sand a little spot if its say a black car the sand paper will have black on it and if its a base clear then the paper will have white from the clear on it .