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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 159
Let the disassembly begin (tips appreciated)

Hello - I'm beginning the process of disassembling my 72T. I've never done this before. I've been told it's not too difficult. I'm wondering if there are any manuals or threads that show how to remove bumpers, trim, etc. Take lots of pictures, I know

Here's my thread on my progress to date. Thanks for any tips or leads.

Mike

restoring my new 72 -- as told by an amateur

Old 04-06-2011, 10:40 AM
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Location: Deep South
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Taking a car apart..........

Very important, use zip lock bags to put the small parts into for each assembly that you remove (left headlight, etc.). Be certain to lable the bag with a marking pen. Also, have some boxes ready to store the parts that you have removed. Probably the most difficult thing will be removing the front fenders so that you can remove the beading between the fender and the cowl. The right fender is not too bad, but the left fender with the gas filler will take some work. Once the fenders are off, I recommend cleaning all of the old sealer off the fender and the body. The sealing tape is somewhat expensive ($53 for 5 meters) but one roll shoud do both fenders. If your car has a/c, you will have to remove the clamp on the dryer to get to some of the bolts in the fender well. Be sure to note any spacers between the fender and body so that you can get them back in place later. I wimped out on the glass and got a glass company to come to the body shop to remove the windshield and rear window. When ready, I will get them to come back and install all of the glass. Your car will be in the shop for several weeks. Put some fresh gas in the tank and add some gas stabilizer. That way, you should not have any starting/running issues when the car is reassembled. Good luck with your project.
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FEC3
1980 911SC coupe "Zeus" 3.3SS
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:15 PM
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Fred's put you on the right path... Lots of bags and a marker pen. I also went out and bought a cheap ($20) Dymo electronic label maker and "tagged and bagged" everything! I also bought lots of plastic stackable storage boxes to store everything.

Go totally wild with the digital camera BEFORE you disassemble complicated items and make yourself print out key photos to put in the ziplock bags.

If you get stuck, don't worry - plenty of us have screwed up enough to help put you right
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 04-06-2011, 04:12 PM
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Great. Thanks

Was hoping I didn't have to remove the fenders. I heard you can remove a screw in the jamb area and pull out the strip. we'll see.

thanks. you'll be hearing from me soon. mike
Old 04-06-2011, 05:41 PM
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like fred and john said . also in my shop we will draw a pitcher of a panel on a 2' x 2' peice of cardbord then poke small holes in it to just were the nuts and bolts go . you then can push the bolt into the cardbord if its a nut and bolt with washers combo you can set the nuts and bolts up as they would be on the panel its self with the washers and nuts on the back side of the cardbord as it would be on the car . a thin piece of wire will hold the nuts and washers in place on the cardbord if there is not bolt that accompanys it . by doing it that way every nut and bolt can go right back in the same spot it was in when it was taken a part .

Last edited by 962porsche; 04-07-2011 at 06:34 PM..
Old 04-07-2011, 06:28 PM
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Fender Beading.........

is usually hard to remove. The plastic/rubber kind of grows to the metal. Also, you will probably find some surface rust in there that you will want to treat and prime. The old sealer will break and crumble and usually won't reseal. I pulled the fenders, cleaned the mating surfaces, treated the surface rust and primed. By the way, those two bolts at the back end of the fender are very difficult to put back into place with the door bolted to the body. I got around that problem by cutting two short pieces of threaded rod, put them into place with the fender off and used them as "holders" when putting the fender back into place. It is much easier to put a washer and nut on the threaded rod pieces than to get the 6mm bolts started in their respective holes. The threaded rods don't have to be screwed in a perfect amount as a little of it poking thru the nut won't interfere with anything.
Hope this helps.

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FEC3
1980 911SC coupe "Zeus" 3.3SS
god of thunder and lightning
Old 04-07-2011, 06:37 PM
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