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Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 6,136
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![]() ![]() I have a 73 911 with some small spots of surface rust I would like to remove by Sandblasting and/or Sodablasting. I can't afford a restoration now, but want to stop this from getting worse. I would follow up with Metal Prep and then some Self-Etching Primer. 1st, is this the correct procedure? 2nd, must I cover this primer w a sealer of some sort on a temp basis until I can afford to paint the car? Thanks for any & all experienced advice. Len ![]() |
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Yes, primer is porous, so it does not provide protection against rust starting again.
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Robert Currently Porsche less (but the wife has 2) |
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,638
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soad blasting does not remove rust . so you will need to pick a blasting abrasive that will remove the rust . the down side to just priming is that primers are not made to hold out weather . thats what the top coats are for . you should use an etch type primer over any bare metals . there should be no reason to metal treat the rust spot if you sand blast the area . but if you feal you need to then go ahead . over a etch primer most paint co's want you to use a filler primer over it . you can use a sealer then wet on wet top coat it. because MOST but not all etch primers have chromates (zink) pick a etch primer that has chromates when ever your priming over a rusted area .
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I don't know about Metal Ready, but I found this on Picklex20 website concerning self etching primer.
16) Can any primer be used? Most of the primers can be used except Self Etching Primer.
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Ed 1973.5 T |
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Porsche Nut
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It has been a while, but I was told not to use these rust converters or flash rust preventers before priming. Something to do with etching and the primer not biting properly. Though I was using Epoxy primer so that could have had something to do with it. I was told to media blast, clean the metal and hose it with Epoxy primer. Do not sand blast and then let your car sit for even one night, rust will form. Check around bc after all the work I did, after the fact, I found people who would sand blast and prime and in some cases powder coat primer for a very reasonable fee. If you have not ever sand blasted before, it is soooo much fun and once you do it you never want to do it again.
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I was told that sand blasting leaves a residue that must be removed before priming. With that said, I had my car bead-blasted then DA-ed with 80 grit, then epoxy primed. Some old schoolers don't like self-etching primer, due to the acid effecting other layers of paint later on. Not sure if it's true....
Once again.... listen to 962!!!!
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74' 911 w/3.2L (sold) 95' 993 C2 Triple Blk Cab. 02 Honda Superhawk (sold) 2018 Toyota Tundra Limited 2004 CRF250X |
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,638
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you should not have epoxy primed over a 80 grit cut . you should have stepped it down to a 180 or 220 grit before using a e-primer . no there is no acid that will effect the other layers in e-primers . any time your priming with a filler type primer over a bare metal you need to lay down a coat of e-primer 1st . most filler type primers will not stick to bare metals . there are DTM (direct to metal ) high build filler primers that can be used but i has to be a DTM primer for it to stick to bare metals .
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962, like I said, the guy that 80 grit and epoxy primed my car was an old schooler, that had a truck load of opinions. That was back in 1997.
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74' 911 w/3.2L (sold) 95' 993 C2 Triple Blk Cab. 02 Honda Superhawk (sold) 2018 Toyota Tundra Limited 2004 CRF250X |
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,638
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old school not willing to change with the times ?????
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