PPG single stage paint

[armandodiaz]

I will be painting my project in the next couple of months. Its a race car so I don't need a showroom quality job. For ease of painting, I'm planning on using a single stage process. The car is a mix of sheetmetal and fiberglass.

My local supply store only has PPG paint. I've looked in the PPG website at all their products and noticed a few single stage product lines; Shop-Line, Omni, Deltron, Value-Pro.

Now my question:
Does anyone have any experience with any of these products? I will be painting in my garage in a home-made paint booth (1x2 and plastic). This will also be my first Full paint job (I've done a little patch work in the past), so I need something very forgiving. The supply store suggested the Omni line but I'm hoping to hear from someone not trying to sell me anything.

Thanks,

[cnielsen]

I used PPG on my 67 and was very happy with it. Omni works well too but it's not supposed to be the quality of the Glasurit and PPG paints. Although I've often wondered if it really matters with our cars as they don't see prolonged periods of UV light exposure...makes you wonder if the $800+ difference in materials is really worth it.

[armandodiaz]

Omni is PPG. In fact all the ones I mentioned are PPG. They are different lines, I guess quality is the difference.

[962porsche]

Glasurit is a paint line not a paint co. the maker of glasurit is BASF and they also make lower cost paints . like RM and LIMCO paint lines . you will get the same color matching and the same user friendly paints .
so just like PPG offers deferent lines and grades so does BASF .

[armandodiaz]

Thanks, my supplier only carries PPG. I was just curious if anyone had any experience with any of their product lines.

[962porsche]

i have used omni it's a ok product and is user friendly . if your doing an over all paint job you will be just fine with it . if your looking to just do a spot repair in a car with a OE finish you may want to think about using the same paint CO that the car maker uses . that way all the tints and amounts of tints are the same making you spot repair color match much better .

[armandodiaz]

Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear.... I think.

The car is bare metal/fiberglass (no paint). Metal is sandblasted.

Have you used any of the other PPG lines? Would you recommend one over the other? I am kind of torn. I would like to use the best products, but then I have to keep in mind that this will be a track car and will more than likely get beat up a lot.

Thanks.....

[962porsche]

you should pick a paint system and stay with in that paint system . try not to mix and match products . so if your going with the omni line try and use all the materials from there product line right from primers to there top coats .

[armandodiaz]

Thanks,

I downloaded their tech sheet with all the compatible product #s.

Thanks again.

[armandodiaz]

Originally Posted by 962porsche

you should pick a paint system and stay with in that paint system . try not to mix and match products . so if your going with the omni line try and use all the materials from there product line right from primers to there top coats .

Should this include the prep wash and rust inhibitor? They recommended using a different company: POR15

Thanks

[arkitect]

POR15 is a rust encapsulator.

I have not used the product but have read alot of opinions on it, which is kind of a mixed bag. Some love it and others will never use it again. It seems like it's all in the preparation.

The one negative is that it is UV sensitive when exposed to the sun and has to be painted with another product over it. Good luck with your project.

Dave

[D911SC]

You have to be very careful with POR15. Some doesn't like it claiming it doesn't let anything stick to it but if you follow their instructions you should be OK. Others don't like it because it is relatively costly and the drying time is longer than other products. I think the drying time would limit the use by shops.

There are other products, search for 962's posts and you'll find the one he recommends. It's an SEM product I believe.

Another rust option is Wurth's rust converter. It looks like milk and you brush on then watch the rusted area turn black/purple. This approach will reply on your removing as much rust as possible with a wire wheel. I don't think it would be the best for heavy rust. You might want to make sure it looks like the rust is gone then apply the product. Excess cleans off with acetone and then you can prep for paint as normal. I would be thoroughly cleaning the area.

I would be interested in other experiences of The Wurth's product but I have found it to be very good. I was recommended it by 3 other shops here.

[armandodiaz]

My car does not have any actual rust spots;

Maybe just some surface rust, from sitting, this will be removed once I send it in to get sand blasted.

I was referring to part 2 of the spray process....

As per everyone's suggestions the process goes as follows:
1. Metal Cleaner
2. Metal Conditioner
3. Epoxy Primer
4. High Build Primer
5. Single Stage Coat

For process 1 & 2, my supplier suggested using POR15 (its not that expensive):
1. Marine-Cleaner - $23 Gal
2. Metal-Ready - $34 Gal

Preparation Products-POR-15 Inc.

Then PPG Omni for the rest..

[D911SC]

Yeah - I was referring to the actual POR15 top coat - the messy black stuff!

An expert can comment on Marine Cleaner and Metal Ready although I have done what you are suggesting with no issue.

If the shop is reputable and they are suggesting the POR15 metal prep process under PPG products then you'd hope that it is 100% compatible. It may be worth contacting PPG directly to see what products they suggest under their primer and top coats. I cant imagine they wouldnt have a solution for you, whether it be POR15 brand or something else.

Perhaps read through Freddie Hernandez' metal conditioning thread - link is here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/381243-links-freddie-hernandez-101-series.html

[armandodiaz]

Thanks, Feddie's post is what gave me the krazy idea to do my own paint. My original plan was to completely prep then send it to a paint shop.

I download the paint tech sheet, which list all of the products to use, including the prep products. I think I'm going to stick with that, then take a chance on 1 persons suggestion. After all, in the end, I will be the one spraying. If something goes bad, the supply store will only blame me and say they are not responsible. Then I will be stuck redoing, or even worse, get pissed off and send it to a paint shop.

[962porsche]

i am not a fan of the por 15 product line . it's way over priced and is just an ok product for what you pay for . there are many other reasons i don't like it but i care not to talk about them .
for the most part people over use metal wash cleaners . this too i will not get into .

[MJHanna]

I have used their Deltron line and have had good results with it. As with you it's on a race car and have not seen any issues with this line.

[Fishcop]

Armando, if you click my signature you can see the resto and home paint job I performed on my car. I took a lot of 962's advice and am very pleased with the result. I went with Glasurit and there is no doubt it's great to work with; however like Chris I wonder about the extra $$ when the cars are garaged and well cared for...

Pick and stick with one manufacturer's product line - that way you can't go wrong and you can rely on the advice and back up of the supplier. Given it's a race car and likely to cop the odd bit of damage, it won't hurt to to buy everything and only use a little as you will then be equipped to do the repairs yourself for years to come.

Regarding the home painting, I constructed a plastic sheeted tent within my garage and used a fresh air supplied mask. ALL this stuff is toxic and you need to look after yourself!

[962porsche]

you know John is 100% right about looking after your self . we tend to talk about products and nothing is said about our health .
this crap can kill you !

when it comes to painting the race cars we build most of the time we will use a lesser grade product . we use the limco line for them . when it's all said and done the finish looks the same but because of cost and the fact that there is a big chance the car is going to get balled up it just makes more sense to use limco .

when it comes to metal prep wash and products like that we only use BASF products . you can use things like the RM pre cleaners with glasurit and with the limco line .
we do not how ever use things like ppg pre cleaners when we are spraying BASF products over them or BASF cleaners if we spray PPG over the top of BASF products .
would it work if we did mix and match things like pre cleaners . it should but i'm not going to take that chance .

not to long ago i tried the duplicolor system on this old 944 track beater i loan out to friends .
the car came out dam good for what it was . i used there hole system the only thing i did not realy like was the coverage . but at some thing like 22 dollars a QT who cares we are just going to beat the hell out of the car !

all paint systems will work if you stay with the system and do what they want you to do .

[armandodiaz]

I found a local supplier that sells BASF. The limco line is $50 less a gallon than the omni. So the question becomes; Is the omni worth $50 more?

decisions, decisions....