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Discseven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Miami, FL
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Grey Undercoating in Can

I noticed others looking for grey undercoating in a spray can like myself and it's not as easy to find compared to black.

Here's grey from 3M in a 23 oz can. NAPA carries it (but my local store does not shelf it --- they have to bring it in.)

3M Rocker Panel Coating, 23 ounce Net Wt / 600g, Grey, 08889

According to the data sheet (link below) the "Color" is "Light grey."

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTtOXMEMXM6EVuQE cuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

Just picked up one can... $44.

Below is a test --- I want to see if I can skip the sanding and special priming and what 3M considered to be "light grey." Product goes on nicely with texture controlled by the distance the nozzle is from the painted surface. What you're looking at is a very thin coat shot close to the surface because I want a base coat going on that's very wet. The thinking is that's better for adhesion.

The color looks good for inside the trunk but I would stick with black for under-body.

I've inserted photos before but now... I can't! The "Insert Photo" only has a URL option. Help a newbie out if you will!


Last edited by Discseven; 01-29-2013 at 12:26 PM.. Reason: New info ~
Old 01-29-2013, 06:13 AM
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Would like to see your pic.
Click on Go Advanced rather than Post Quick Reply.
Below the Spell Check Button there is a box called Attach a Photo. Should work.
Cheers....
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:56 AM
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It appears there's no attaching a photo from a file when "editing" one's original post. " I do see the "attach" when "replying" as you mentioned Uwon --- thank you ~

Here's the "Light grey" applied near the spare tire area. I would call this color Very Light Grey.



I think this color would do really well on a Concourse maintained 911. It has a very "new car" appearance to it. But I'm not a Concourse guy. A year down the road... this color's not going to look good in my trunk because I'm not maintaining it. Dark grey would be a more practical color in my case. Alas... no dark grey to be found and I'm not going to have it mixed and I do not want to paint over the undercoat layer. So I'm back to black.

The 3M black undercoat is not as expensive as their light grey. I tested (roughly to check the finish only) some 3M black and there is a difference between it and the grey finish. The light grey has a slightly semi-gloss finish to it. The black has a flat mat finish. I also tested the Bondo brand black. Came out identical to the 3M. What I do not like is I just dragged my finger nail through the black and material is coming off. It also scuffs easily. The light grey does NOT do either.

Old 01-31-2013, 12:19 PM
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Try U-Pol Gravitex it comes in black and gray. You can mix the two to derive the color you wish. I know you are not going for the Concourse look but for reference the the gray is off from the Wurth OEM gray. The Wurth gray has a beige tint the U-Pol is more of a battle ship gray. The texture is very close to the Wurth product and has a nice build similar to the gray in your photo. My jobber in NJ sells the U-Pol for about $22.00 per quart.

Hope this helps.
Old 01-31-2013, 05:53 PM
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when your talking about gray chip guard and black under coating they are two totally deferent products .
chip guards are ez to find in any color you just go to your area jobber ( auto paint store )
and buy it . they come in deferent colors like white , light gray , dark gray and black .
chip guard is what you would use on a car .

undercoat only comes in one color black and really only has one use well maybe two .
the 1st is it's for trash cans then from there it's into the dumpster .
you should not in any way use rubberized undercoating on a car .
1st it's does nothing to protect the cars chassis .
2nd it never really hardens so it's always a mess and any thing that touches it for a year or
two the crap will come off on it .
even then if the crap gets hot it's still sticky and soft .
3rd you can not paint any thing over it .
4th if you ever have to do a repair were that crap was sprayed it's hell to remove .
you will go thru a roll of paper towels and wash thinner like crazy just to remove that
crap off the panel you sprayed it on .
it's just oily slimy tar if auto makers don't spray that crap in a car maybe you should not either

i could keep going on on how much i hate undercoating but i think you got my point .
Old 01-31-2013, 06:03 PM
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^ yip like he says think there is a bit of product confusion, unfortunately not a concours product imo.

3m do a much better product shot from a schultz gun with better protection properties if you are looking for that sort of finish.

Its all in the prep avoiding sanding & panel prep is the best way to a rubbish finish and poor adhesion.

Best bet is spend a little money and get a compressor, out the can products are rubbish, they are over thinned to get through the small nozzle, propel, and dry quickly - means they are so thin in depth on the panel.

Also these finishes are designed to have a top coat.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:39 AM
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Let me also say. The info I posted was originally provided to me by 962. Listen to 962 beofre me. He is the authority.
Old 02-03-2013, 12:29 PM
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if i were looking to do what discseven wants to do i 1st would feather edge out the pealing crap .
then blow the area down and wipe it down with a pre paint cleaner then tack the area off .
mask off any part that you could get some over spray on then tack it off again .
then wet on wet i would spot E-prime over any bare metal areas .
after the primer flashes off i would spray on 3 coats of spray can chip guard letting it flash off between coats .
you can get a very oe look out of spray can chip guard if you know how to use it . is it going to be a dead nuts match well no but it will be close . once you get the trunk liner back in the car you will never see if the texture is a 100% match .
my guess would be the car owner is not looking for a conourse job and just wants to fix it up a little and not have it look like crap .

Old 02-03-2013, 06:51 PM
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