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1st time body and paint diy project with many questions

ok, ive never paint anything other than rattle can but gonna attempt to do some things for first time. i dont think this is rocket science but have a cpl of questions:
one ive got fenders and doors blasted and look straight but an area that got a few drops of water and started to flash rust, can i just hit that with a paddle sand pad and prime everything? also what kind of primer do i need that allows welding? is there a huge difference in primers? ive heard etching primers, is this what i need for full fenders that are bare metal? any help appreciated.
Old 04-11-2013, 12:09 PM
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after you have a panel or panels blasted you should then sand the hole panel any way with 180 or 220 grit sand paper . you could do it by hand but a DA will be much quicker and give a better finish . after you sand every thing wipe the bare matel panels down with a metal wash /cleaner .
then spray a coat or two at most of a E-primer that could be a etch or epoxy primer .
then you can do your if any body work over the top of the E-primer .
you can or should not weld the area were E-primers are used so grind or sand if off in that area were you will be doing any welding . once your finished weld and grinding the area spray another light coat or two over your welded area . then do your body work over that .

when it comes to primers there are differences .
i could go thru all of them but just what primer are you talking about ?
you will want to stay away from any primers in spray cans the reason is you want to add a hardener to you primers . they do how ever offer primers in spray can that you can add a hardener to by hitting the bottom of the can and shaking it up good but they will cost more in the long run and not worth it if you need more than one can of primer .
Old 04-12-2013, 06:47 AM
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I don't want to be one of the jerks that tells you to do a search but right at the top of the forum is some superb info:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/381243-links-freddie-hernandez-101-series.html

Also listen to 962. He is giving you the exact info you need.
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:56 AM
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though the link to freddie 101 is ok that is all it is it was not from a person that does it for a living and has no real experience of repairing cars .
there are many things he tells you to do and are BIG NO NO's just one simple one like adding dish washing soap when your wet sanding your primer for paint . that is just not a never do it's a good god hell no never do !
Old 04-13-2013, 06:36 PM
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What 962porsche says is right on. I'll add to that a panel that "looks straight" and actually being straight in final paint is two different things. A good high build primer with guide coat and the right blocks will show you what needs more work.
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:57 PM
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962 whats your thoughts on removing the galvinisation layer? What would you normally do?

If the car was known to be good and accident free would you try and preserve the coating or are you not fussed?

Also I saw weld through etch primer is this any good?
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
If the car was known to be good and accident free would you try and preserve the coating
Yes. If your sure the car doesn't have multiple coats of paint, the factory primer would be the best. If your doing a respray over factory paint, I would sand with 220 or so, to the paint/primer level, trying not to get to bare metal. If sanding by hand, always use a block!!
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strath44 View Post
962 whats your thoughts on removing the galvinisation layer? What would you normally do?

If the car was known to be good and accident free would you try and preserve the coating or are you not fussed?

Also I saw weld through etch primer is this any good?
there is more than one answer to this often asked question .
it the galvanized coating important ?
well yes it is but more so when the car is built because is also between the seams of all the panels .
you can replace the protection with E-primers and weld thru primers so it's not the end of the world if for repair reasons you remove the ganvanized coating .

when it comes to having to strip a cars finish down to bare metal you will end up removing the galvanized coating then but again you are not stripping the coating off between the panel seams .

when it comes to people stripping the finish off there cars thinking it's best because they want to just refinish the car because of an old dead OE finish .
this is not the best idea at all !
you only want to strip a finish that is chipped up so bad that you can't feather edge it out with out making the substraight wavy .
other reason to do a total strip to bare metal is when the finish is checked ,cracking or pealing along with a finish that has more than 14 mills of paint on it . 14 mills is about the thickness of the oe finish and one to two repaints over it .
i have stated this many times about more coatings of any kind is never better
. this is why it just adds mills to the cars substraight that is not needed or wanted in any way .
some of the reasons is it does nothing to protect the cars substraight at all in fact it does more damage than good . when a cars finish is to thick it chips very ez and will want to lift and peal . if you get a little door ding the metal will move but the finish will not so later on down the road you will get the finish starting to delam from the substraight .
when people tell you they have 10 plus coats of clear on the custom paint job they unknowingly ruined all the work that went into the cars repaint .
it does not add depth to a finish it only makes the clear look thick and on some colors it will ruin the look of the way the finish/color should look .
Old 05-14-2013, 11:31 AM
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