When to use All Metal filler?

cary · 01-27-2014, 06:50 AM

I was wondering when you can/should you use All Metal rather than conventional body filler.
USC All-Metal Premium Aluminum Filled Auto Body Filler

962porsche · 01-27-2014, 07:44 AM

many many years ago I had the USC per in the shop about all metal .
we had a problem with it and now we will only us it over aluminum panels never over a steel or any other type substrate .
it's aluminum based so the expansion and contraction rates are not the same as steel is so many years later you may see it ring out in the areas were it was used .
that was the problem we had when we 1st used it and why the per had to come down .
plastic body filler has the same expansion and contraction rate as steel does so you can use it with out the same headache's as you could have with all metal .
they say it could be used on steel but think about this they say you can use fiberglass on steel right on the can also but it will give you problems .
all you need for body filler on steel panels is a quality body filler and you will be more then fine !

TC911e · 01-27-2014, 02:26 PM

Does that hold true for the places where they originally used lead filler (like at the join from the rocker to the rear quarter and lock post panel at door opening)? The only clear justification I've seen for it is for the places you can't be certain won't be exposed to moisture from the back side (like where the rocker and rear quarter come together), but I'm certainly no expert and just going on what I've read.

Iciclehead · 01-27-2014, 06:21 PM

Personally I always use metal filler.....but the metal is lead. Starting using the stuff a few years back, I do wear proper PPE whilst using it, but I find it easy to do, wonderful to work with and the advantage of pretty well being permanent.

Eastwood can sell you all the stuff you need, a good propane torch with feather nozzle is good enough to do the job. To be fair, for the very small pits and stuff that is left, I will be using a good polyester filler (in my case Sikkens), so I have no particular aversion to it.

Dennis

962porsche · 01-28-2014, 04:33 AM

lead filler is no longer real lead as there is no lead in it .
we have some real old time lead filler in our shop and no one will ever touch it !
the new non lead filler works just fine and is not close to being as deadly as the old lead .
if your looking to replace the lead they used it's best to use the new lead filler .
lead is good because there is no thickness boundary's like there is with all metal and plastic body fillers .
if your gong to exceed the thickness limits if the other fillers on a seam were lead was used then you would have to use a lead filler true name is body solder .
lead fillers do nothing to hold moisture out !
the expansion and contraction rate of lead is close to what it is with steel so you tend not to have any thing ring out years down the road if you apply a thick amount of it .

it still comes down to stay away for using aluminum based filler products over steel .
it's not that you will have a problem with it but you could .
like I said we did for many years when I 1st opened my shops and only had one car with a problem but even one problem after all the work that's put into a cars resto is to much .

Iciclehead · 01-28-2014, 04:35 PM

962, not sure what happens in US of A, but the lead I get here in Canada is real lead....well 70/30 anyway. I know there are alternatives out there, Eastwood sells it as well, but I am using the real McCoy.

As for hazard, yes, like many of the things in our car hobbies are pretty nasty, certainly I would not do leadwork as a career and more than I would like to paint with isocyanates all day...but once in a while with PPE (double nitrile gloves, mask, shower/rinsedown right after, from what I have read I am not in any great danger.

And yes, it is most excellent I had a couple of spots on my drip rail removal where I wanted to sculpt a nice shape for water (bottom of A pillar) and lead worked very nicely.

Rust proofing...yes, a worry, particularly with the heat that you need to apply to melt the stuff...takes the paint off pretty well.

Always enjoy your perspective....thanks again for sharing it.

Dennis

962porsche · 01-29-2014, 03:51 AM

you can still buy lead here also but lead and body solder are not the same .
the new body solder is much better then the old lead that was used . easier to work with better for your health all and all just a better product so there is no reason to use lead any more .

cnielsen · 01-29-2014, 04:43 PM

I've mentioned it before and it is worth mentioning again... 962, your posts are always soooo informative! I know it takes time to write a reply and trying to teach those of us that are newbies, but I just want you to know that it is greatly appreciated!

Chris

962porsche · 01-30-2014, 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cnielsen

I've mentioned it before and it is worth mentioning again... 962, your posts are always soooo informative! I know it takes time to write a reply and trying to teach those of us that are newbies, but I just want you to know that it is greatly appreciated!

Chris

Chris thanks I do appreciate that !
if I can help just one person do a job easier or better it's worth it for me !