Painting Fan

[Ferrino]

Let's say I didn't want to powder-coat my fan. What is the best paint to use instead, after prep'ing the surface? I know a lot of people use a rattle can of 1K engine enamel, and that's what I was thinking. But I also see complaints about durability and chipping/flaking after some time. What would be a more durable solution - epoxy primer + 2K urethane?

[962porsche]

what color are you painting it ?

but yes screw any single component product even the best are not as good as the worst 2 part product out there on the market .

sand it all nicey nice getting all the surfaces . use 320 grit .
after your finished sanding blow it off and wipe it down with pre paint cleaner .
then tack it off and spray a coat or two of a E -primer . I would use epoxy for that .
then if the surface is to your liking (smooth) you could spray a coat of sealer on it then go right to your top coat color SS or BC .
just give proper flash times between all coats .

[Ferrino]

Thanks. The color I am after is an anthracite/charcoal/dark grey. Something like the one below, which I think is actually a ceramic coating. Where could I find a gray urethane with a satin finish like that?

[chris_seven]

Two Pack - Direct onto Magnesium

Defense Paint High Temperature Aircraft Engine Coating Indestructible

Available with varying gloss units - This one is 70 units and we may try 50 next.

[962porsche]

if your doing it in a metallic base clear you would just need a mat clear .
if you wanted to do a single stage solid color you would add matting paste to the color or the jobber your buying it from could do it for you .

for motor parts there is no need to use a high heat paint . motors should never get hotter then what the good old automotive paint can handle . if it does you have much bigger problems then if the paint will burn off .

[chris_seven]

Low VOC Rockhard Protection Magnesium and Aluminium (Aluminum)

We bought it mostly because it is tough and has great adhesion.

[962porsche]

chris it looks like a good product !
the thing about it is I'm not seeing a big advantage if any over automotive based products of the same 2 part epoxy based non chromated products used on the market now .
automotive based products can handle the same temp of 400F are of the same base component .
the adhesion should be no different as long as you prep the substrate properly .

for chip resistance what would you need over a OE finish for that ?
just what kind of conditions is the fan seeing on your Porsche ?

[Ferrino]

Thanks, it's cool that I could have a specific color mixed in one of the auto paint lines. I had a couple more questions:

So a regular auto 2-part paint will be OK on the valve covers too (with e-primer underneath)?

Why do you suggest shooting sealer in between e-primer and topcoat - does that just speed up the process? Can you not go straight from e-primer to topcoat?

[962porsche]

some epoxy and etch primers you can not just go to a top coat .

this is what and how I would paint a fan for the 911's .
1st clean the hell out of the part using RM's 900 pre body work cleaner .
2nd I would media blast the part in my cabinet using a medium fine grit .always wearing rubber gloves after this point.
3rd sand the part with 320 .
4th clean with RM 901 pre paint cleaner .
5th tack the part off .
6th spray one medium or 2 light coats of RM's EP789 black (epoxy primer ) mixed as there Polyuroxy setup let flash off for 20 minutes.
7th spray color you like in RM' Diamont line Base coat . applying 3 medium coats or to cover .
let flash .
8th spray 3 coats of a matted clear waiting a little longer between coats each time .
I would use RM's clear and matting agent mixed 50 % clear 50% matting agent for a matte gloss .
for a more satin gloss you would add more flatting /matting agent .

now let it cure and install it .

[962porsche]

SBC 350 motor from my 948 .
it was painted 2 years ago and just pulled out this past fall for a freshening up as the car only does endurance racing .
still looks good with it's paint .




1986 VW GTI motor painted in 1996
this car gets about 10 track days a year and gets driven to about 7 or 8 cruse nights a year .
the finish is just fine .

good old auto paint will hold up with out any trouble if you prep the parts as they need to be and you use the right products in the right way .

the only other paint used was heat paint on the exhaust headers and they are wrapped so I have no idea if that paint even held up ?

the clear made for bare aluminum also is holding up after many years with out troubles .

a big part of keeping a motor looking new is like the out side finish of your car you keep it clean and it will last .
I hate a dirty motor if it gets a oil leak you fix it ASAP if it get dirty you clean it .

[abisel]

Another product for consideration would be the firearm coatings.

Two that I know of are:
Cerakote Cerakote Coatings
and Duracoat DuraCoat Firearm Finishes

Both claim to be very durable finishes. Cerakote is a bake-on finish whereas Duracoat is air dry although they do offer a bake-on product. I used the air-dry Duracoat on a restoration project of a model electric train locomotive. It turned out pretty nice and seems to be standing up well to handling on the track layout. I haven't tried the Cerakote but plan to do so.

Cerakote does seem to provide opportunities for a durable finish on just about anything. This page from their website shows applications on stuff other than guns.
Cerakote Coatings: Not Just Guns - Page 1 - Gallery

[chris_seven]

Originally Posted by 962porsche

chris it looks like a good product !
the thing about it is I'm not seeing a big advantage if any over automotive based products of the same 2 part epoxy based non chromated products used on the market now .
automotive based products can handle the same temp of 400F are of the same base component .
the adhesion should be no different as long as you prep the substrate properly .

for chip resistance what would you need over a OE finish for that ?
just what kind of conditions is the fan seeing on your Porsche ?

We painted a couple of fans in an Automotive 2k and they did show some marking after year on our rally car which does pick up some crud when driven at speed along a forest track.

Indestructible Paints are only a few miles away from our premises and I know them from the days I used be involved with Military Helicopter Engine and Gearbox Testing and was aware of their speciality in making paints to suit Magnesium castings.

We didn't have any grand design it was just convenient and easy to get hold of a paint that could give a good result.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by Ferrino

Thanks. The color I am after is an anthracite/charcoal/dark grey. Something like the one below, which I think is actually a ceramic coating. Where could I find a gray urethane with a satin finish like that?

FERRINO... you may recall the VHT satin coating I last coated my fan with. VHT is not holding up---turning darker and darker opaque grey. I have yet to update thread regarding this transition. Am thinking next "test" will be to get the VHT off the metal, polish slightly, and clear powder coat with satin finish. (Will be month or two before I get to that.)

Below... just after VHT was applied. Looked good for a few months then started to change as mentioned above. Cannot recommend VHT. (Curing instructions were followed.)

[Ferrino]

OK, next question is: how do I find a find a paint code for the color I'd like, so I can get some base coat mixed? I'm thinking of doing the wheels in the same color - do manufacturer's typically give paint codes for their wheel finishes? Was thinking I could find a factory wheel paint I like and then use that code? I'm tending towards towards something with a little metallic if I'm going to paint wheels with it too. Something along the lines of "gun metal" or "anthracite".

[962porsche]

if it's a oe finish on the wheels then most of the time they offer a color code for the wheels .
if it's a color you like out of a color chip book it will have the paint manufactures color code so it can be mixed in there paint line .

[962porsche]

see with the chip in the color deck there is a number for that chip .
with the color decks you look up the paint code from the car .
in the formula for the cars color code it will have chip numbers to look at to match the shade of color to the cars color.
if you just look at the chips you can also just bring up the color formula for that chip you like and mix that .
with BASF the chips are real paint so what you see is what you will get .
some other paint CO's use ink for there color chips doing so does not always make for what you see is what you will get color wise .