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Question for all the guys setting panel gaps on a bare chassis restoration.

I have a bare 993 chassis, unfortunately the door hinges where completely removed and shims lost and the fenders are off as well.

How are people setting gaps on bare chassis?

When the car is on its suspension and everything is back in, don't they dramatically change?

Do I need to build this car and set panel gaps following a complete tare down again??


Last edited by CalvinC4S; 04-02-2017 at 05:44 PM..
Old 04-02-2017, 05:42 PM
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I take it you are painting the car?

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Old 04-02-2017, 10:11 PM
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Yes, the prior owner has it in thick unknown primer. I plan to take it to metal and do paint.

Everything is out including door hinges. I just don't know if its a bad idea to set panel gaps on a empty shell.

I see people do it all the time here, I'm just curious if there is enough adjustment in the shims and hinges.

I have pulled engines more than a few times on 911's and have always noticed when jacked or empty the doors don't open or close well.

Last edited by CalvinC4S; 04-02-2017 at 10:19 PM..
Old 04-02-2017, 10:12 PM
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If i was doing the job i would pre fit everything even though the motor &trans are out especially if i did not take it apart,yest the gaps will probably change but you can make small adjustments.Its better to know what you got before paint.

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Old 04-03-2017, 11:53 AM
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Thanks Kevin, I think I'm going to throw the suspension, engine and trans back in the car so I can block out the doors to fenders/rear quarter.

I just don't know how much chassis sag there really is and hate to introduce greasy drive train components into my primer; due to me just over thinking it.
Old 04-03-2017, 05:15 PM
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Fit everything before you paint. I did not to this BIG MISTAKE. It's my understanding the sequence for gaps is strike side of the door to body first. Then the fender to the front of door. Some of the fitting originally used lead to establish the correct gap on SWB cars. The lead could be gone due to previous repair events. I'm not an expert but have paid for the knowledge through trial and error...........mostly error.
I was told by expert advice that doors don't sag.
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Last edited by xsurfer; 04-04-2017 at 05:59 AM..
Old 04-04-2017, 05:56 AM
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Thank you that's great advice.

Do you think panel fitting on a bare chassis is a waist of time or is there enough adjustment to correct the panel gap changes when the car is fitted with engine/trans/suspension on its own feet?

The thing that causes me so much concern is any time I have a complete 911 on jack stands and need to open the door it feels out of alignment.

I can only imagine how out of alignment a bare tub is and how pointless it would be to set gaps on a chassis dolly.
Old 04-04-2017, 06:07 AM
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CalvinC4S, I have always test fitted all the panels when doing a restoration. I use a blackhawk bench with dedicated fixtures to insure the tub is correctly aligned. As long as your chassis dolley is square and level, once the parts are fitted, they should only need minor adjustments when reassembled. i always mark the bolt location and note how many shims are needed. This makes realigning much easier. I recently was brought a 1974 911 that was modified with turbo flares and a sunroof. The car arrived completely disassembled. The owner swore all the parts fit well before he disassembled. I foolishly believed him and proceeded to do the metal work and bodywork without refitting the hood and fenders. needless to say once i did prior to painting i ended up redoing some of my work. Trust me, the time spent to fit all the parts is worth it. Having to redo anything, especially after painting is too expensive. Bob
Old 04-04-2017, 06:28 AM
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Thanks Bob,

Just so I understand.

If I set my panels exactly how I would like them on the bare shell, I should be able to make minor adjustments after paint to get it back when its loaded down on its own suspension with engine/trans in?

Last edited by CalvinC4S; 04-04-2017 at 06:43 AM..
Old 04-04-2017, 06:41 AM
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Yes, fit all the panels to the bare tub. Align each part to achieve the proper gaps and flushness to adjacent panels. I even have put the hood weatherstrip, door weatherstrips, latches and stickers in to make sure the alignment is correct. You can use 3-4 dimes to check gaps. If any areas had been repaired, i check the fit of the trim or lights as well. taking the time before you paint will make final assemble easier, less likely to scratch anything and with just minor tweaking. Good Luck, Bob
Old 04-04-2017, 06:59 AM
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Thank you!

I have been wrenching on these things my whole life.

Never painted anything.

I'm stoked... researching the 55 line system. So much to learn..
Old 04-04-2017, 07:01 AM
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PS... Have patience and take the time and effort to fit everything. even if it means taking the part off and on a few times. It can be frustrating,but the final result is rewarding when you do.
Old 04-04-2017, 07:03 AM
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I am a body man by trade. I have been working on Porsches for nearly 30 years. Collision work and restoration mainly. About the only thing i haven't done is rebuild an engine or transmission.
A good friend was a Porsche dealership lead mechanic. He doesn't like body work and i don't care to get greasy. I always said you make them go fast, I make them look great.
Old 04-04-2017, 07:15 AM
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So true, I have probably met your buddy in Reno. I used to work as a tech at the Porsche dealership here in Scottsdale AZ, long time ago. When water cooled 911's came out I didn't evolve..

I found a 96 that has been sitting for over 15 years that was an abandoned project. I'll give it my best shot to bring it back.
Old 04-04-2017, 07:47 AM
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Calvin that is sound advice.

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Old 04-04-2017, 07:25 PM
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