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Rust repair - Does this plan sound correct?
I've been reading through the many different postings on repair and paint and I appreciate all the excellent guidance in this forum. Bodywork, welding, painting is a art and a skill that I respect. I am a beginner in this area.
Unfortunately I had a rust issue that I did not catch when purchasing my baby and I recently finished welding in s patch panel for the front left bumper.  I finished welding in the patch and sanded down the spot welds. I got a bit carried away on the sanding and thinned out the metal in a couple of areas and have some pin holes. (not many and I know the metal is thin as when I go to fill them I am blowing through the metal - so I'm done sanding and welding)  My plan moving forward is to POR-15 over the enter bumper bare areas (bare metal) and then use a light coat of body putty over the por-15 to smooth out the rough welds (It shouldn't be even and 1/8 of an inch) - I will then epoxy primer (self etching) over the por-15 (and the body puddy) - then use the Wurth (or Upol) stone chip and then finally some Guards Red paint to attempt to match the current inner fender paint. I'm hoping to protect against rust, fill any pin holes, and make it look as factory as possible (I know -this isn't really possible - but I have time to sand to make it look better than without.). I checked with POR-15 and buddy putty can be used AFTER treatment as long as I apply it at the point it becomes dry to the touch. I have used POR-15 on Strut towers (BMW E30) and it can take a beating if done correctly. My question is - does this sound like a good plan? Am I missing anything?
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08-14-2017, 07:39 PM
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
Posts: 3,637
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forget the idea of pro15 it's crap !
use an epoxy primer over your bare metal and once dry you can spread body filler over it . just sand the epoxy 1st before you go and spread your filler over the top of it . a red scuff pad or 220 grit sanding will do . |
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08-15-2017, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
I read a few of your posts on Wurth and U-Pol - so Im searching for the U-Pol product - but what is the name of the product - Is it Gravitex? If so is it much different than the aerosol version - Gravi-Guard?
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1981 911SC |
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08-15-2017, 07:42 AM
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If Por-15 is crap - how about SEM - rust guard? Several posts have people using that. Is that a similar type rust guard (just better?)
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1981 911SC |
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08-16-2017, 06:16 AM
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
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do not use products like that you use a two part epoxy primer .
it offers more rust protection then products like por and the sem rust shield . you could go over the rust shield with body fillers if you add in the hardener to it ( 8 to 1 mix) but there is not a need . the epoxy is the better way to go . one problem with por is it's a single part product ( it offers no hardener ) this make it reversible meaning if you take a rag soaked with a thinner and place it on the por it will soften it . they say chemicals don't effect por . this is a load of crap ! it looks like to me you have good clean metal in your repair areas . there is no need to apply products to hold out rust if there is no rust there . this is why you use a two part epoxy primer then after it's dry you scuff it with some 220 or a red scuff pad then do your body filler work over the top of that . when your finished with your body filler work you spray one more coat of the epoxy primer over any bare metal stops you have then spray 3 coats of a filler primer . sand your filler primer then top coat or spray your gravitex . what rust shield and pro are made for is areas that have rust on them or things like a chassis / frame . they hold down rust and make a good direct to metal and top coat all in one .well the sem does any way the por will fade in a few months having no UV protection in it . |
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08-16-2017, 08:37 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: wisconsin
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Totally respect your opinion...
I gotta say, don't know what I am doing wrong, but I have used 2 part epoxy primer on rust areas hat had been sandblasted clean, and rust came right back within a couple years... Took some motor tins, sandblasted and powder coated... within 3 years rust started bubbling up. This is on cars not driven in rain or in the winter... On the flip side... my ford van was rusting. Swiped it with some sandpaper, slopped on some rustoleum... driven in salt. 5 years later looks fine... Have some steel car ramps. Covered in rust. Slopped on some por 15. 10 years later, sitting outside, completely rust free... |
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08-16-2017, 04:57 PM
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for peace of mind use something w/acid in it to treat the panels that were rusted even if you feel like you've removed the problem . I spray on "rust seal ",then wipe it down so its not running down the panel.I have been using a sem product,and after it turns most everything black ( a sure sign that you've treated it as good as you could hope for) then use epoxy primer sealer after that use your plastic filler as needed
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08-17-2017, 11:27 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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I see so many set ups with the moisture traps right at the compressor outlet which will do nothing. Compressed air gets extremely hot it needs to cool before being sent through moisture traps otherwise you can't extract the moisture. |
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08-18-2017, 05:41 AM
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dkbautosports.com
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: branford ct
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even simple things like touching bare metal with bare hands will end up rusting the metal after your all done and it's painted . bare metal sitting to long in open air .even a few hours is to long at times , there are countless reasons as to why you could or couldn't have some thing rust out later . |
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08-18-2017, 11:29 AM
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1981 Porsche 911SC
