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Seahawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 31,456
Engine Drop Help

Also posted at Samba and the 356 Registry:

One of my winter projects for my '62 Notch is to drop the engine to repair some very minor rust that is in a hard to get location with the engine in.

I also want to address some other, minor stuff.

While I have dropped VW motors, 911 engines, etc., I am soliciting any one with experience in 356's to lend me a hand!

I know it is not that hard but this will be my first drop after almost three years of ownership and I have always found experience at hand is better than a thousand photos and "how to's".

My shop is heated (and air conditioned!) and I will pay for gas, food, etc. My farm is located on the Potomac River in Southern Maryland and I know all the local roads!

PM if interested...no set schedule.

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Old 10-08-2012, 06:53 AM
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Process is the exact same as a VW engine. Disconnect fuel line, heater control rods, etc. Undo the 4 bolts. Out it comes.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:15 AM
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There's a few differences but you'll get the idea.

Pulling a Porsche 912 engine
I've used this technique several times with no problems, 356 and 912. It's authored by Green912 out of Church Falls.



Pulling a Porsche 912 engine

It is real easy to pull the motor. All you need are the usual tools, one person, one full size floor jack, a 4 foot tie down strap, one 4 foot 2X4 and 2 jack stands.
1 Disconnect the battery and only then disconnect all wiring to the motor from the body. Senders, ignition, generator and such. No need to disconnect the starter.

2 Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel pump.

3 Remove the rear pan.

4 Disconnect the shift linkage connector that is under the cover between the rear seats. Donít forget this part or you will really damage things later.

5 Loosen the rear wheel lugs. I like to remove the rear wheels as it makes it easer to move around under the car but it isnít required.

6 Lift the car. To do so, jack the car up as high as you can with a floor jack using the tranny center at the differential box as a lifting point. I use a disk of plywood and a patch of old carpet in the jack cup to protect the cases. Use 2 jack stands and a 2X4 as long as the car is wide support the car by putting the 2X4 under the rear floor pan seam. (The seam NOT the pan. The point where the rear seat pan ends) Now remove the floor jack from the transmission and jack the car higher using the center of the 2X4. You will be able to get the car nice and high this way. Raise the floor stands up to meet the 2X4 and remove the floor jack. The car is stable, high enough, you only need one jack and never had to get under the car while lifting it.

7 Remove the rear wheels.

8 Remove the sheet metal that the license plate is on. You will need to remove the rear chrome bumpers to do this.

9 Loosen the front transmission bolts. Do not remove them; just back them out 3 turns or so.

10 Disconnect all the heater stuff, hoses, control wires and anything else you see that runs from the car to the motor. Check to see if there are any mounting straps to the tail pipes ect. (Remove nothing off the transmission, as it will stay. No need to remove the CV joints or starter ether)

11 Put the floor jack under the center of the motor case and put a little upward pressure on it, then remove the rear motor mount bolts.

12 Lower the motor about 3 inches. (You remembered to disconnect the transmission didnít you?)

13 Remove the front most piece of motor tin. This is the one that sticks up over the top of the transmission. It is held in place with 4 cheese heads.

14 Get a flat cargo strap that is about 1 inch wide, run it under the transmission right behind the bell housing. Tie it off on the top of the rear strut towers inside the motor compartment and cinch it up tight. This will support the transmission after you remove the motor.

15 Lower the motor until SOME of the weight is off the jack. The strap will stretch some thus giving you some more room to work with. Now slide under the car and remove the 2 lower motor/trans nuts. Then remove the 2 bolts on top. One is a starter-mounting bolt as well.

16 Jack the motor up or down until the motor isnít lifting the trans and the trans isnít lifting the motor.

16 Now you can pull the motor gently off the trans and lower it to the floor and then roll it right out the back. Use the tail pipes as handles. Bolt on the motor stand bracket and only now do you need to get a friend to help you lift the bugger into the stand.

One jack, one person and the second time you do it you can do it in about 40 min. 
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Thank you, Your Welcome! and Best of Luck....
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:02 AM
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I'll jump in there and say it is simple and I'm no mechanic.
Old 10-08-2012, 11:36 AM
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if i was a bit closer i would come by and help just to meet you and chat
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lane912 View Post
if i was a bit closer i would come by and help just to meet you and chat
Thanks for that...Portland Maine would have been a stretch

As for the PMs and other links, thanks to all.

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1996 FJ80.
Old 10-10-2012, 10:02 AM
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