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Sump plate torque specs
I can't find a torque spec for the sump plate nuts. I've searched the Haynes book, 101 Projects, two different sets of workshop manuals, the spec booklet and Bentleys. Help!
Anyone know?
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Greg |
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It's an M6 stud, I believe, and that has a standard torque value that should be used for it - don't remember it off the top of my head though - it's listed in the new book...
-Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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Porsche shop manual says 7 ft/lbs
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Thanks Marc.
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Carefull. I got flamed by Charlie cds72911 for asking this exact question six months ago. Gulp.
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Gulp....
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Greg |
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7 ft. lbs will be below what most torque wrenches can measure at all accurately. So just wighten slightly snug and don't have an iron wrench. Or invest in an accurate 1/4" torque wrench if you are really anal.
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Agree w/ Randy, on tiny studs/fasteners like this I use "common sense" torque: a very small wrench, (I use my 1/4" ratchet), and a very small turn after threads bottom out.
Believe me, you would rather have one of these come loose than to strip/break it. ![]() Edit: Just to clarify, snug them w/ very little leverage and small tool.
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Navin Johnson
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you dont need a torque spec for the sump plate nuts.......
Yes I know there is a Porsche specified torque....... This is one instance where having the "feel" might be more appropriate
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IMHO one can only aquire feel after comparing it to a standard or by trial and error. The latter is the hard way, and not all of us are blessed with feel !!
Randy/Denis great explainations if the torque wrench is not available.
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True...hell, I thought I was being cool when I bought a torque wrench for wheel lugs. I can see the need for a pro, like John Walker, to have an inch pounds torque wrench. Do most of us garage wrencher/owners need to go that far??? I wonder when it would stop? Only after you have more $ spent on tools than your car is worth? There should be a line somewhere. I know we all need tools in order to work on our cars, but how far do we need, or want, to go?
Last edited by pwd72s; 03-02-2003 at 06:06 PM.. |
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Try Harbor Frieght
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I have a Craftsman 250-lb-in torque wrench. When I originally removed/installed the plate (with new gaskets) I torqued to 10 nm (or about 7 lb-ft). There's a table of default torque specs in the Bentley book and this was the spec for a mid-grade (?) M6 nut. But it leaked. 7 lb-ft felt like nothing at all. I loosened, retorqued and it still leaks. This "feel" must be more than 10 nm. I retorqued today at 12 nm, which still "feels" light. If it doesn't work, I'll drain and check for warpage.
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Yeah Greg, the plate may be warped...around where the nuts are tightened... Then the next process of flattening begins.. I did that by going to a local machine shop, explaining my problem.
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Anyone using these?
Or course, in today's dollars ![]()
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Marc - you want to chime in on your thoughts about that product which you picked up at Hershey last year
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Greg:
I had one on the 2.7. It was great. No leaking. You have to be careful with the studs that they give you, but a quality product and leak free. Dougs lead in was due to me snapping one of the studs, and having one of the nuts leak. I was not a happy camper. I bought the plate from the owner of the company that makes them, and he sent me a new stud, gaskets and nuts. When I sold the engine it was dry.
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The machine shop I used also did the head work on my old MOPAR, so maybe they did me a favor...but the cost of making the original plate as flat as new was $25. I think they just put it in a press, flattened out the dimples that had developed over the years. I've seen the ads for the billet aluminum plates...these plates look good to me. But evidently, you also need to R&R all the studs for them to work??? Plus, I dunno...I just like looking at the plate the factory installed.
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"Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have a radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. '73) (I, Paul D. have loved this quote since 1973. It will remain as long as I post here.) |
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IF I bought a torque wrench for this, I would get a beam type. The click type are not very accurate, and when the local PCA club rented a tester all the ones tested were way off. I definitely would NOT get a precision instrument like this at Harbor Freight. Sears Crapsman would be my low choice. One of the few things that is worthwhile at Giot's Garage arethe torque wrenches, which come with free calibrations forever. Or you can get a Snap-Off. Google on torque wrench calibration for a place that will do it for about $25 each time.
Torquing a screw itself is not the most accurate thing to do -- hence the use of stretch type conn. rod bolts. Check out a high quality fastener manf.s web site or catalog for info on torque, & etc. |
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