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JED
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Advice on repairing a stripped points screw on a 2.7 Distributor
I have been having fun but struggling with the ignition system on my 74 Targa.
When I first got her running again the motor would cut out /bog only at full throttle at the top of the rev range a issue that was present 5 years prior the last time she ran. A PO had removed the 3 pin CDI all together, to my understanding the condenser on the side of the distributor was doing its job. I was advised that a MSD 6A box would be a wise move. I sourced what I assume was a good used MSD and Blaster coil. I installed per directions and could only get the motor to fire but not run. Read trouble shooting guided ect. Still not luck, reinstalled old coil set up and the issue was gone. Pulled strong all the way. I possible attribute this to fresh connectors I used on the coil wires. Then she started running very rough and then failed to start at all. Chased the issue down to a stripped points screw. Did a search could not find any threads on this particular fix. Was thinking of converting the a Pretonics Ignitor and using JB weld to attach the fixture as it does not need to adjust. Tap to next screw size up? I have heard the metal used in that plate is very hard making a simple tap fix tricky. Can that piece be easily replaced with a part from a core dizzy? Frustrating to be dead in the water after resurrecting the 74. Thank you for your thoughts. ![]() ![]() Last edited by ARCSinAK; 08-19-2018 at 11:07 AM.. |
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JED
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Registered
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I'd prepare to pull the dizzy so you can deal with this nice and precisely on your work bench. Turn the engine till the ignition rotor is at #1 position; soak the dizzy clamp nut with some penetrant. No way epoxy would be appropriate to attach a pick-up arm or re-attach the points. I wouldn't be too quick to get rid of the points set-up; a fresh set incl. condensor installed and adjusted properly will be just fine. Electronic is easier but aftermarket conversions can be flaky IMO. While your dizzy is on the bench you can give it a good once-over (bearings/bushings, advance mechanism) or send it out to get it overhauled by a specialist. Best of luck, John
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JED
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Thinking of trying a short sheet metal screw.
How difficult it is to get the sub plate where the screw attaches out of the assembly? Last edited by ARCSinAK; 08-19-2018 at 12:42 PM.. |
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'73 911 T Targa
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I think a sheet metal screw is going to take things from bad to worse.
I'd try a helicoil or send it to somebody like ************.com |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: mt. vernon Wa. USA
Posts: 8,702
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Ah....so it's not the screw that is stripped, but the hole in the plate. I'll see if I have a spare in my distributor parts stash.
regards, al
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[B]Current projects: 69-911.5, Previous:73 911X (off to SanFrancisco/racing in Germany).77 911S (NY), 71E (France/Corsica), 66-912 ( France), 1970 914X (Wisconsin) 76 911S roller..off to Florida/Germany RGruppe #669 http://www.x-faktory.com/ |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: mt. vernon Wa. USA
Posts: 8,702
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Just checked the stash...some 3.2 dizzy parts, but no 2.7 dizzy parts. I do have a complete 2.7S dizzy, if interested.
regards, al
__________________
[B]Current projects: 69-911.5, Previous:73 911X (off to SanFrancisco/racing in Germany).77 911S (NY), 71E (France/Corsica), 66-912 ( France), 1970 914X (Wisconsin) 76 911S roller..off to Florida/Germany RGruppe #669 http://www.x-faktory.com/ |
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JED
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Thanks AL
Sent you a PM |
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