Anyone have a clever idea on fixing this?
 

Not that uncommon of an issue but with how far down the bolt snapped it isn't going to be easy.

And tips to pass along?

Thanks!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1533743898.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1533743898.JPG

drill and use an easy out

weld a nut on top,

oh wait, you said clever, then no

Does the bolt go straight through? Looks like it might, if so, use a centerpunch to make a divot and start drilling with a regular drill bit that's smaller than the shaft of the bolt. As it heats / weakens the threads it may grab the bolt and turn it right through.

Ha, thanks for the response.

Will try to get a drill to get purchase on top of the bolt

...or you could try a left-handed drill bit. Sometimes that'll back the broken part right out.

Soak with PB blaster to start with for sure.

Discussed on this forum in many places is the use of ATF/acetone as penetrating oil. It is certainly the best I have used. Paint it onto the bolt remnant with a small paint brush. Let soak, at least overnight, then use a left hand drill. Are you feeling lucky?

Is it flush with the metal? If you’ve even got a *little* to bite into, I’ve had some great luck with the Irwin bolt extractors.

if drilling, first grind bolt flat, then hit centre with centre punch, you need to give your drill a chance to start off close to the middle.

Is there only one spot weld on each end of the nut plate? If so could you drill out each spot weld? Might be easier to work on

David

I had some luck with a Milwaukee Cobalt drill bit (Home Depot) and a Irwin bolt extractor (Lowes). Certainly not clever, I only mention as I'm pretty sure my success removing a broken strut mount bolt on a daily driver was due to the specific drill bit and easy-out. It was my own Christmas Miracle in July.

I also let a soldering iron sit in the hole for five/six minutes to free-up the Loctite however dubious any actual effect.

Thanks you for all the ideas and suggestions, I'm going to try to drill it tomorrow and see where I get to.

A classic issue. I suggest you heat it up first, MAPP or Acet, as well as you can esp. if it is a through bolt (both ends), then take a punch and hammer and tap it sharply, This serves to break some parts of the corrosion. With the bolt still warm, douse with penetrating oil (I like Acetone and ATF), and tap a few more times. Heat it up later just for fun

Now get a good quality new drill bit and quality easy out kit and have at it. The overall philosophy here is to loosen the item as much as you can before applying the final solution. Heat is always your friend and perversely it seems applying a tightening torque to snapped bolts helps. I assume it just lets the penetrating oil get into more surface area.

Good luck you will pull this thing out.

Find a piece of thin walled tube or the like slightly larger than the bolt about 1-2 inches long and use it as a guide for a drill bit that just fits inside the tube. Drill a nice divot dead center of the bolt. Then start with a 1/8 drill bit and drill it through, repeat with the next larger size until you can pick the threads out or clean it with a tap. Use oil so you don't ruin your bits and go slowly.

My non dexterous ass has done this procedure numerous times and yours looks like an excellent candidate for this procedure. Worst case you use a helicoil, but I've never had to.

Ez outs suck IMO... a great tool to replace a soft broken bolt with hardened steel!

Where is that? - chassis seat rails?
Bill K

looks like a parcel shelf screw bracket, good luck drilling without pulling the back window

do this.

Holy cats if that's the parcel shelf bracket forget what I told you.

Again, good luck!

Whatever you do, do not break the bit off in the bolt. It happens all the time for first timers. Take it slow steady pressure but don’t push so hard you start bending and break off the bit. It’s get really hard after that.