Originally Posted by mrrolleyes (Post 10169492)

car has permatune

Originally Posted by mrrolleyes (Post 10169492)

points were done about 6 months ago but might of gotten wet?

Originally Posted by mysocal911 (Post 10169614)

And who put that in?



And you checked that the points' signal varies from 12V to ground with a test light, right? If so,
the box is bad, since you changed the coil and you have 12V on the middle pin to the box.

Originally Posted by HarryD (Post 4395758)

To get a spark to the spark plug in the engine. Several things need to happen. First, you need power to the CDI. Next you need to have a way to trigger the CDI (the points do this by opening and closing). Then the CDI will then send a pulse to the coil which will increase the voltage and send it through the high tension lead to the rotor and to the selected spark plug. You need to verify that each step in this chain is working.

1) Verify that the CDI is getting power. Do you hear it wining (if it is a Bosch unit)? If so, you are good to go.

2) Verify that the CDI is producing power to make a spark. You can do this with a "telegraph" test. Take the high tension lead off of the center of the distributor and put a spark plug on it. Ground the threaded part. With your plug attached to the center lead, open the distributor, remove the rotor, place your key in the run position, and manually open and close the points. Each time you cycle, you should see a spark from the plug. If you do not, you may have a bad CDI.

3) Verify that the coil gets a signal when you crank. Replace the rotor and distributor cap. Leave the plug on the center high tension lead. Crank the engine. Do you see a spark? If so, you are getting spark to the distributor. If not, your point gap may be off or there is some other problem with the connections.

4) Verify that the spark goes to the spark plug wires. Reattach the center lead to the distributor. Attach you spark plug to one of the leads going to the cylinder spark plugs and ground. Crank engine. If you see a spark you may have a timing problem. If no spark, you have a problem with your rotor or distributor cap or your wires are improperly seated.

Do a search here as there are many threads on this topic. Look especially for the ones by early_s_man. Warren (RIP) left a great deal of knowledge on troubleshooting this problem.

Originally Posted by timmy2 (Post 10169908)

BTW power to CDI comes to the back from a switched power fuse at the front fuse panel, not from the 14 pin connector. It then goes to one of the 3 rear fuses.
Power from engine harness 14 pin is constant power from alt, via starter, via battery and runs to a different fuse on the rear fuse panel.

Originally Posted by obscene (Post 10170034)

I could try to find time to come up and help if you don't resolve this soon.

I'd throw a test light on the points signal then work backwards from there. My car had a similar issue before, and it just turned out to be bad points.

Originally Posted by jimtweet (Post 10169981)

I learn new stuff everyday. Thank you Timmy. I thought power wire split off alternator and that’s what went through the 14 pin to power CDI. Then there was a ignition signal wire.

Is this different from 3pin to 6pin CDI boxes ?

Originally Posted by mrrolleyes (Post 10169980)

well according to this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IblZtEmM26E

with wire on coil negative i get nothing "positive" on the test light when turning the motor by hand.

Originally Posted by mrrolleyes (Post 10169980)

well according to this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IblZtEmM26E

with wire on coil negative i get nothing "positive" on the test light when turning the motor by hand.

Originally Posted by mrrolleyes (Post 10171654)

car is running. thank you everyone.

i got a crash corse last night on points.

we needed to clean the points and pickup it seems like the rotor was not making a solid connection with the cap in the center. so we raised it up a tiny bit to get it to fire. new cap and rotor are ordered.

Originally Posted by mrrolleyes (Post 10171654)

car is running. thank you everyone.

i got a crash corse last night on points.

we needed to clean the points and pickup it seems like the rotor was not making a solid connection with the cap in the center. so we raised it up a tiny bit to get it to fire. new cap and rotor are ordered.

Originally Posted by mrrolleyes (Post 10173029)

side note, or question..

car had plug wires with grounds. is it ok to switch to the non grounded wires? aka magnacore

also it has a bosch rotor, i think i ordered the the porsche oem one.

Originally Posted by 75 911s (Post 10173044)

I did a little more research after our conversation.

I found Peter Zimmerman noted this in an old thread "Yep, the grounded shields on CIS cars were to divert any stray sparks from plug wires to ground, rather than have those sparks travel to the plenum chamber of the airbox."

Reading on, this didn't help the airbox from exploding, so the grounded/shielded wires were done away with after 83.

In other words, you should be fine to use magnecore non shielded, non grounded wires. However and from my understanding, the solid core magnecore wires are for use on MSD ignition systems.

I should also note they look totally rad, that's why I run them! :-)

As for your rotor, aren't the Porsche OEM parts made by Bosch?

Originally Posted by obscene (Post 10174366)

I run the clewett wires and love em. Cleaned up my ignition and they look great too. (ie not red)