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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,950
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Changing oil and storage
Do you change your oil first if your car is going to sit for 3-4 months or do you change it after is has sat and you are just about to start it up again for the season. I change my oil yearly (Mobil 1 15-50) and put 2-3000 miles a year on it. Presently I have 62,000 on it.
------------------ 8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line. |
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11-07-2001, 08:07 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: New England
Posts: 380
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Before putting mine up for the winter, I put some gas stabilizer in, filled the tank, ran it for a while to warm up oil and get stabilizer throughout the fuel system, changed the oil and filter, pulled the plugs, squirted in 3 - 5 cc's of motor oil, replaced plugs, pulled fuel pump relay and turned it over for 15 - 20 seconds. Next year, I'll fire it up, drive it until the oil is hot and then change it again. I run Mobil 1, but used quaker state for the "over the winter" fill because its lots cheaper and i'm not going to run it with the quaker state for any appreciable time. I change the oil in the fall to get a season's worth of acid and corrosives out of the engine and then again in the spring to get any condensation out. Overkill? probably, but $25 for an extra oil change seems like cheap insurance. Porsche recommends squirting the oil in the cylinders to lube the rings and protect the cylinder walls, etc. It gets real cold where I am so I'm not going to start it again until spring (if you can't run it long enough to really get the oil hot, you just get extra condensation in there with more corrosion possible. If it's going to sit all winter, pump the tires up to 50 pounds and move it a foot or so every few weeks to avoid flat spots. Pull the battery and, if it's damp and/or doesn't freeze where you are, put a pan with charcoal briquets inside to absorb moisture. Also, block the air and exhaust inlet/outlets with screen material to keep mice and squirrels from taking up residence inside (if there are mice and squirrels where the car is). I hear moth balls also discourage them from moving in.
I have never done all of this for my 74 Spitfire and it runs fine after 25 years but then again major spitfire repairs cost hundreds and major 911 repairs cost thousands! Argo 88 Targa |
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11-07-2001, 08:53 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 980
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i usually changed the oil before storage, but this year i didn't drive the car as much as i would have liked to so i am going to store it with the dirty oil in there.
i can't imagine it doing any damage from november to april. ------------------ Daryl 964 Targa |
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11-08-2001, 05:44 AM
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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Change it before storage like Argo said. Removes acids/contaminants suspended in the oil. Buy the cheap Mobil/Exxon/Kendall and don't bother to change the filter until you refill in the spring with the good stuff. Peace of mind is worth $12-$15 bucks for a case of oil, no?
Put a dessicant in the interior and stabilizer in the gas like Argo said as well. You can put the car on stands to relieve the tires and suspension, but i'd leave the wheels on. Never know what might happen in the garage/house if you need to get the car out in a hurry! ------------------ Kevin 87 Carrera coupe |
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11-08-2001, 09:43 AM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,944
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Plug the tailpipe and shut the heater valves (manual levers = all the way up). You want to keep the rodents out.
Jw |
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11-08-2001, 10:35 AM
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