Got my engine parts back from machine shop... Now What??

[Trakrat]

ok.. so almost everything has been returned to me from Ollie's. (UPS lost one of the boxes on day of delivery but should be coming soon, and some parts were forgotten to be sent back to me)

So far everything is looking great... BUT I'll need to clean everything, as there is a lot of residue and other unknown particles stuck in places.

Yes... I have Wayne's book.. but most of what he discusses is for an older engine w/ mag case.

So... here's my questions:

1.) What do you recommend cleaning everything with? I don't have a parts cleaner available. Will just a can a brake cleaner and a clean cloth be enough? What do you recommend?

2.) I need bearings. What should I be looking for? Do I need to measure something first to verify what bearings to get? (Ollies said everything is STD "Align bore back to STD")

3.) What should I be measuring, if anything? (and exactly HOW do I measure it? plastigage? digital calipers? digital micrometer?)

4.) And finally... is there anything, based on your experience, that I should be looking over and verifying visually? As a first-time engine builder, I don't want to put the bottom end back together only to realize I was supposed to install a couple of internal studs?

[Tippy]

Good ol Dawn dish soak with heavy rinsing is all you need, unless there’s caked on oil/grease, then brake cleaner followed by Dawn.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by Tippy

Good ol Dawn dish soak with heavy rinsing is all you need, unless there’s caked on oil/grease, then brake cleaner followed by Dawn.

Is there any parts that should NOT be rinsed with Dawn soap and water? crank? heads? etc...?

[fred cook]

Do yourself a favor and buy a 20 gallon parts cleaner tank! Be sure to get one that has a filter for the cleaning fluid. Then, wash, wash, wash! You will also need a compressor or air tank to blow off the parts once washed. I spent more time washing parts using a parts cleaner tank than I want to think about! Can't imagine doing it with a spray can!

[sand_man]

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/

[3rd_gear_Ted]

Glyco bearings only from Germany

[boyt911sc]

Trakrat,

You will be getting all sort of good advices regarding engine cleaning and preparation. Some maybe over kill but use your judgement and be prudent. Over come your anxiety and do not over think this process. This is probably the most difficult stage for you now and a common feeling among those who are doing their first engine rebuilding. It is not how fast you did the job but how well you did it.

These are some of my suggestions to you based from my limited experience in engine rebuilding and not necessarily in order:

a). Clean, organize, segregate the different engine parts in an orderly manner in your work area.
b). Find a person or more as your mentor/s that you are comfortable talking and asking for advice. I had three (3) people from out of state on my list with extensive experience in engine rebuilding. Talked to them before you start the assembly and seek their advises.
c). Practice makes perfect. I do a mock assembly of the assembled crank shaft with the rods and bearings torqued according to spec, timing chains, nose bearing, etc.
NOTE: Try not do this assembly by yourself. Find a helper to assist you assembling and mating the crankcase. Why?

I had 39 members of this forum who attended the 2-day Engine Teardown/Assembly Sessions I conducted in April 2018 and will share their experience with you. There were instances that 2 or more people working together failed to install the crankshaft over the crankcase half correctly. Yet, some of these guys were mechanically brilliant and failed to install the assembly even with some help. Finally, they were able to install the assembly correctly. Requested them to disable the engine and placed the different parts on the table and called it a day.

The following morning, they arrived and found the assembled crankshaft with con rods sitting on the crankshaft case. I am not strong enough to hold the crankshaft assembly over the crankcase half for several seconds and line up the nose bearing so I developed a technique doing it myself. Or find a helper to assist you. Period.

Planning and using the correct techniques and tools will make your engine assembly fun and enjoyable. Keep us posted.

Tony

[EdRogers]

I'm a bit behind you, still trying to get things cleaned, shipped out. And mostly, wrapping my head around what I need to do. I'm just about to start removing old head studs. The last motor I did was over twenty years ago for my 70, and honestly, I don't remember anything. Reviewing the books isn't reminding me much about it.... I have the factory manual, good for checking specs, but they expect a lot of previous knowledge. So, I've found using all of the books together help give me a better grasp. If you were a little closer, I'd love to help. It would be a great benefit for me as well....
Good luck, and please share as you go.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by fred cook

Do yourself a favor and buy a 20 gallon parts cleaner tank! Be sure to get one that has a filter for the cleaning fluid. Then, wash, wash, wash! You will also need a compressor or air tank to blow off the parts once washed. I spent more time washing parts using a parts cleaner tank than I want to think about! Can't imagine doing it with a spray can!

I was thinking about using one of the plastic storage containers my wife uses to store her seasonal decorations. Since she'll be putting out the fall decorations, I'll have a container to use.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Trakrat,

You will be getting all sort of good advises regarding engine cleaning and preparation. Some maybe over kill but use your judgement and be prudent. Over come your anxiety and do not over think this process. This is probably the most difficult stage for you now and a common feeling among those who are doing their first engine rebuilding. It is not how fast you did the job but how well you did it.

These are some of my suggestions to you based from my limited experience in engine rebuilding and not necessarily in order:

a). Clean, organize, segregate the different engine parts in an orderly manner in your work area.
b). Find a person or more as your mentor/s that you are comfortable talking and asking for advice. I had three (3) people from out of state on my list with extensive experience in engine rebuilding. Talked to them before you start the assembly and seek their advises.
c). Practice makes perfect. I do a mock assembly of the assembled crank shaft with the rods and bearings torqued according to spec, timing chains, nose bearing, etc.
NOTE: Try not do this assembly by yourself. Find a helper to assist you assembling and mating the crankcase. Why?

I had 39 members of this forum who attended the 2-day Engine Teardown/Assembly Sessions I conducted in April 2018 and will share their experience with you. There were instances that 2 or more people working together failed to install the crankshaft over the crankcase half correctly. Yet, some of these guys were mechanically brilliant and failed to install the assembly even with some help. Finally, they were able to install the assembly correctly. Requested them to disable the engine and placed the different parts on the table and called it a day.

The following morning, they arrived and found the assembled crankshaft with con rods sitting on the crankshaft case. I am not strong enough to hold the crankshaft assembly over the crankcase half for several seconds and line up the nose bearing so I developed a technique doing it myself. Or find a helper to assist you. Period.

Planning and using the correct techniques and tools will make your engine assembly fun and enjoyable. Keep us posted.

Tony

Thanks Tony... great advice... unfortunately there isn't anyone locally to go to. Just taking my engine apart and shipping it out is more than anyone in my local PCA chapter has done.
I'll have a helper to assist installing parts that require more than 2 hands... but for the most part, I'm completely dependent on my books & manuals, online videos and pics, and this forum.

Fortunately I'm in no hurry. Once I get started, I'll setup a thread on here and post what I'm doing... and hopefully others will chime in and help me along the way.

[smokintr6]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

I had 39 members of this forum who attended the 2-day Engine Teardown/Assembly Sessions I conducted in April 2018 and will share their experience with you. There were instances that 2 or more people working together failed to install the crankshaft over the crankcase half correctly. Yet, some of these guys were mechanically brilliant and failed to install the assembly even with some help. Finally, they were able to install the assembly correctly. Requested them to disable the engine and placed the different parts on the table and called it a day.

I'm not saying I don't believe you, but I find this a little surprising that teams failed... My friend and I assembled my 3.6 together, I don't think he had ever built an engine before, and I had never done a 911 bottom end. There was some light jiggling to get things aligned, and some final struggle to make sure the cam chains were in the correct location and not fouled. However I can say with total certainty I could NOT have done it without the second set of hands. Too heavy & too awkward. A strong friend with some level of attention to detail is probably all you really need.

My biggest concern with the case halves was using the grey sealer (I believe it's 3 bond) that comes with the current flavor of super duper engine sealant kits. When you get it on nice and thin, that stuff sets up FAST. I definitely felt rushed and wished that I had done a more thorough dry assembly run. I was really worried that it had cured before we were really ready for it, and we did NOT assemble the case with O-rings in place. I went back and pulled individual case bolts and re installed with rings taking my sweet time. I would never have been able beat the cure time and do the O-ring install at the same time. I sort of wondered if I was going to wish I had used 574 for the case, but I HATE HATE HATE that stuff. Everything I use 574 on ends up with a small drip, and the grey case sealant ended up dryer than a popcorn fart. I would highly recommend a dry run of mating the cases.

[proporsche]

Hi Trakrat...as Tony said do not rush the assembly...i always take my time.Anything you do do not let anyone distract you at particulate point of putting things together.
For example when i clean heads from machine shop i take my time to clean the camshaft housing and heads..i do it with a Scotch Brite pad and then with a steel wool..like this..also i clean the engine case same way..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-BAzkZGxd0.

i hate the rough surface on it....this way it will never leak when you apply the orange 574 loctite...later.

here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STWf7WnC4xo

I also use different music style for assembly of engine;-)

here crank case
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IandhtwG5no

and finally if you have the case ready to marring together make sure your rods are nicely lined up to lower the other part of the case..
here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKsuUBZih78

And remember to apply loctite only to one halve of the case


Ivan

[gtc]

I would suggest an ultrasonic cleaner like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-30L-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Stainless-Steel-Industry-Heated-Heater-w-Timer/232797258198?epid=1612379764&hash=item3633cc41d6:gXkAAOSwfshbGNLg
It should fit just about everything except for the case and crank.

[proporsche]

my bud in LA uses this tumbling machine for most of the engine parts..


they come out like this


this machine..

[75 911s]

Looking forward to following your build Trackrat. You seem to be 6 months ahead of me. I did a lot of cleaning on my 3.2 case with brake cleaner, rags and small wooden Popsicle sticks, broken on the round edges to give you a "soft" point to scrub in the hard to reach areas. Still a long way to go.

[Trackrash]

Plasti-gauge is a good way to check clearances now. Especially the crank / bearing clearances. Make sure the case is properly torqued or your measurements will be off.
Supposedly the machine shop measured everything within spec, so the plasti-gauge is a good double check. You will be doing a trial assembly, so that is a good time to do the check.

For the final case cleaning, use a good aerosol carb cleaner and blow out the passages with compressed air.

Don't forget to check the operation of the piston squirters.

FWIW, the trickiest part of case assembly is making SURE those o-rings on the oil pump stay put.

[Trackrash]

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by proporsche

Hi Trakrat...as Tony said do not rush the assembly...i always take my time.Anything you do do not let anyone distract you at particulate point of putting things together.
For example when i clean heads from machine shop i take my time to clean the camshaft housing and heads..i do it with a Scotch Brite pad and then with a steel wool..like this..also i clean the engine case same way..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-BAzkZGxd0.

i hate the rough surface on it....this way it will never leak when you apply the orange 574 loctite...later.

here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STWf7WnC4xo

I also use different music style for assembly of engine;-)

here crank case
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IandhtwG5no

and finally if you have the case ready to marring together make sure your rods are nicely lined up to lower the other part of the case..
here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKsuUBZih78

And remember to apply loctite only to one halve of the case


Ivan

Hi Ivan... did you do these videos??? If so.... that last video of you putting the 2 case halves together left me in suspense!! Were you able to get the case halves bolted together?? Your video ended in 20 seconds!!!!

[Coloradocurt]

Originally Posted by Trakrat

..........2.) I need bearings. What should I be looking for? Do I need to measure something first to verify what bearings to get? (Ollies said everything is STD "Align bore back to STD")..........

That leaves me a bit confused: I'm not aware on any process to "Align bore back to STD" unless they're surfacing both case halves' mating surfaces and then align boring. I would be calling Ollie's and get an exact clarification, as if thy actually did an align bore, then you might be required to use non-Std mains.

[fred cook]

Originally Posted by Coloradocurt

That leaves me a bit confused: I'm not aware on any process to "Align bore back to STD" unless they're surfacing both case halves' mating surfaces and then align boring. I would be calling Ollie's and get an exact clarification, as if thy actually did an align bore, then you might be required to use non-Std mains.

The block halves would have been machined a small amount on the mating surfaces thus making the crank shaft bores oval in shape. Then the boring bar is used to cut the crankshaft/bearing bores back to standard size. A fairly common machining process. If Ollies says it is back to standard then you should be good to go. If you want to double check, you will need a set of snap gauges to measure the bore diameters. Somewhere in the box of parts that came back, there should be a sheet of paper with the new/current bore diameters. If not, then a call to Ollies should get the info you want/need. Good luck!

If you don't have a helper around to assist in putting the block halves together, use your engine hoist to lower the second side of the block onto the side holding the crank and oil pump. When I assembled my engine, one of the oil pump seals came partly unseated and got cut in the process. Of course, the engine would not make proper oil pressure so I had to disassemble the engine, replace the seal and build the engine a second time! Not recommended!