Removing Fuel Injectors, 3.2

[whiz05403]

Gents,

I need to remove my fuel injectors from my 3.2 and have searched and searched for some help but can't seem to find any directions out there.

Could anybody walk me through this?

1987 Targa, no AC compressor in the way.

Also, not sure if I should have them cleaned by Witch Hunter, or buy new alternative ones from Motor Man. Part 0280 150 364.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance. The Pelican community is awesome!!

Subject Vehicle:

[steely]

I'd have them cleaned first - they'll be tested and you'll get a report. Then you can decide.
Here are my notes - HTH
There may be an alternative method.

Left
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Place battery on charger.
3. Remove large plastic elbow to heater blower.
4. Remove large plastic shroud to heater blower (qty 4 10mm bolts of which I only have 2).
5. Remove fuel supply and return lines (front and rear). 19mm – easier than expected. Needed to stuff rags in rear where most of the fuel came out.
6. Remove harness connectors. Pull/push lock spring ends out to left and right in order to free up connector. Also had to undo qty 2 8mm bolts that held the speed monitor cable bundle and another for the ground wire/engine harness cable clamp to make room to get to rear rail bolt.
7. Remove fuel rail mounting bolts. Pull up on injector rail. Used screwdriver in between rail bolt clamp/flange and intake to pry up on rail – also used a spritz of PB blaster.
8. Photographed them.
9. Remove locking clip.
10. Pull injector from rail.
Right
1. Remove airbox cover(snorkel), and filter.
2. Remove harness connectors.
3. Remove fuel supply and return lines (front and rear).
4. Remove fuel rail mounting bolts. Pull up on injector rail.
5. Remove locking clip.
6. Pull injector from rail.
5.5 ft-lb rail bolt
Ship
1. Turn the injector inlet-side-down and shake lightly.
2. Using paper towel or newspaper, wrap each injector individually.
3. place them in a "zip-lock" bag and seal the bag.
4. Next, bubble wrap the bag.
5. Find a suitable box and use "packing peanuts".
6. Seal the box with tape and place a shipping label on the package.

[steely]

first pic - removed rail.
2nd pic - single injectors
3rd - cleaned, tested, and painted

[MConn]

I used Mr Injector about a year ago to clean my injectors, with a fast turnaround. I got a before and after report, but I can't remember if I got new seals. I was happy with the transaction.

Mr Injector - Home

Mike

[motogman]

I just finished doing the same on my 3.2 L. The FI R&R was pretty easy.

Steely has a good list of the steps. The only difference I might suggest is to pull the locking clips, then pull the fuel rail - it will likely come off the FIs first. Then pull each of the injectors separately. At least that is how I did it and it seemed to me easier that when I tried to pull the three with the rail.

I sent mine out to WitchHunters as that seemed the most referenced and it went well - had to replace one.

When I got mine back together and went to start it, I found I now have a leak in the fuel line at one of the swivel joints. It is a PITA and depending on what I end up doing may be expensive (see recent post on fuel line) but it may have been a blessing that it started to leak now rather than when out on a hot day at the track....

So you may want to carefully look the fuel lines over at the same time as this is (as I now find out) a well known problem and failure point for the fuel system.

[ivangene]

great info above, I agree pull the locking clips - and dont loose them!

it's pretty simple to do and send them out for clean/test
worth doing even if it doesnt completely resolve what ever you are trying to solve

[steely]

Originally Posted by motogman

The only difference I might suggest is to pull the locking clips, then pull the fuel rail - it will likely come off the FIs first. Then pull each of the injectors separately.

Agreed, much more of a common sense approach. Puts less stress on the rail too during removal.

I think when I did it I was ignorant of how to remove the clips beforehand, and how much force was required to do it the way I outlined.

[MMiller]

I also just did mine but mine were stubborn to get out of manifold. I suspect it was the first time they had ever been pulled. It took some PB Blaster soaking and a good strong tug to get them out..

Also sent off to WitchHunters for referb..

Mike

[Smoove1010]

Witchhunter suggested that the stock 158's were leak-prone, and the cleaning testing process would aggravate that. For a nominal amount more $, I ended up buying re-man'd 360's from Motoman (who verified the leak-rap on the 158's.)

I'd have preferred the 364's, but Motoman was out of stock. Figuring the stock 158's lasted 25 years with a plastic pintle, the 360's ought to be fine.

Once I get my project done...
87 Drop Top - Drop-n-Top End
I'll report back...

GK

[whiz05403]

Thank you so much for all the replies.

Right now she is missing on #1 and #6 cylinders. I changed plugs, cap, rotor, ignition wires. It's getting fuel and spark, wires are not crossed, all double checked.

Most feedback I get is the injectors, or the electical connection to them.

I swallowed my pride and my baby is at the local air coooled wrench.

Standing by to see what his diagnosis is.

And thanks again for all the replies!!!!!!!

[steely]

Good luck - let us know how ya make out.

[motogman]

Right now she is missing on #1 and #6 cylinders. I changed plugs, cap, rotor, ignition wires. It's getting fuel and spark, wires are not crossed, all double checked.

Mine was missing on one cylinder (intermittently) and I did all this as well. When WitchHunter run the flow checks one was leaking badly and I replaced the one.

[whiz05403]

EXTREMELY BUMMED.

My wrench called and said there is no compression on #6.

Could it be a bad valve adjustment? Or my fear is much worse.

Dammit, I don't have the cash for a rebuild/top end.

May have to park her.

Thoughts?

[Smoove1010]

A leak-down test would reveal more, i.e., where's the compression being lost. Is one planned?

[whiz05403]

Originally Posted by Smoove1010

A leak-down test would reveal more, i.e., where's the compression being lost. Is one planned?

They are pulling the valve covers to check the valves. If they are OK, I'm going to tow it home and park it. Maybe pull the motor overthe summer.

Bummed.

[whiz05403]

Well Gents,

Looks like the valves are all OK, so then my wrench put a small camera in the cylinder and it looks like there is a small hole burned on top of the piston.

Looks like I will be flatbed towing it home, parking it in my garage, and start saving my money.

This sucks!!

PS. How common is this, and do I need to worry about metal particles in the oil?

My long term plan is a top end but........

[steely]

Real sorry for the bad news.
I am too new to know the answer.
If you don't get one, maybe a new thread/title is in order?

[mtb001]

drain the oil and check it, how big is the hole? was it caused by running lean/tight valve or something else?

How was compression on the rest of the cylinders? If the rest look good, already pulled and dealt with injectors/seals, why not pull that head, replace the piston, if possible without pulling down rest of engine....

Not like you selling it, just want to drive it

[whiz05403]

I am going to do my own compression test on all 6 next week. I am also going to try the squirt oil in the cylinder and see if the test results change in number six. If they do then it's the rings, if not, probably a hole. My wrench wasn't totally positive it was a hole but he thinks it is.

If I drop the motor, I'm going to do a top end. With 119K miles and the rate it's burning oil, it's a no brainer. I plan to slow roll the whole project as money is way tight.

I'll be looking for advice on machine shops for the heads, where to get used pistons etc.

Very bummed, but I will be finally able to join the ranks of guys here and get my rebuild wings!

[whiz05403]

OK Gents/Ladies,

I finally got around to doing my own compression test.

Cold engine, #4 and #5 sat around 180 PSI and #6 squeeked out a whopping 30 PSI!!

We then threw a few squirts of Rislone in the combustion chamber and did another test and it maybe hit 35-40 PSI.

I threw a bit more in, put the plug back in, reconnected the DME relay and cranked her up.

She smoked like crazy, white smoke all over the neighborhood!

I took her for a drive and the first minute was huge white smoke coming out of the exhaust.

It cleared up, drove her pretty hard, still missing.

Right now a bunch of Rislone is sitting in the cylinder overnight, probably won't make a difference.

Question: Why would it smoke so much if the only cylinder I put Rislone in wasn't even firing?

Any last chance ideas to get this cyclinder working again?

Thanks in advance