How to remove BOGE ? insert from strut
 

1976 911

Is this a BOGE type ? I have undone the top retaining collar, but the insert/cartridge does not want to pull out ! any suggestions much appreciated.

Mark

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1547051653.jpg

I suspect you need the entire new strut. Some of the older cars did not have inserts. It was a one piece design.

youtube has a pretty good video on this

inserts were oil filled new boge/sachs are gas

tire rack has a pretty good price on inserts under 200 for pair

The only youtube video I can find refers to the removal of a roll pin at the base of the strut, mine does not have a roll pin ! Maybe different youtube vid. Mine is oil filled some of which came out when I removed the top retaining collar/nut/screw plug.

Thanks
Mark

You should be able to pull the shaft out of the strut tube. You'll have a shaft with a bunch of damper "guts" attached to it. Discard that whole shaft assembly and replace it with a self contained insert


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/61016-front-boge-insert-guts.html

I encountered a similar concern when I took my '87 Boge struts apart

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/59799-boge-frt-insert-removal-hang-up.html

KTL great stuff, will try again in the morning.

Thanks to all
Mark T

Timely question... Though I can't stipulate about a '76, I just removed mine from my '85 Boge struts a few days ago. A pipe wrench removed the retaining collar with minor effort, and I then encountered some minor resistance due to suction trying to keep it in. That is when some of the oil slopped out. Your struts have been removed from the vehicle (mine were not), so be careful if you have the strut secured to a bench vice horizontally... there's a surprising amount of hydraulic fluid in there and you might end up doing the "Oh shoot, oh shoot dickdance" while reaching for some rags. Because mine were upright in the car, I used a turkey baster with a foot of plastic tubing shoved onto it to get down there to remove the remaining oil.

I was going to use the Sachs OEM inserts for replacements, but was told by Pelican that the ones for the years up to 3/85 are no longer available. A visit to the Sachs/Boge website verified that they are no longer manufactured. Your alternatives will be Bilstein and Koni for some serious bucks, or KYB Excel-G for a really quite reasonable price. I went with the KYB, might live to regret it in a few years, but price was a factor for me. I ended up ordering new replacement rubber stops, as the old ones were pretty funky and slid down the shaft past the ridge that they're not supposed to slide down past, and squeaked pretty badly while sliding. As squeak noises was the reason I started the suspension tear down in the first places, new rubber stops wasn't something that I was going to skimp on.

Let us know how your insert removal turns out.

BTW, here's what slid out of my '85 struts...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1547058840.jpg

If it's an original multi piece insert, pick out the upper disc, then pick out the thin o-ring next which keeps the rest from coming out.
If it's a one piece insert and it's stuck, put the concave washer and nut back on and use a hammer or air hammer under the washer.

John, I have no maintenance records from either of the previous owners to show if the shocks on my '85 had ever been replaced prior to my purchasing the car in '98 with 92K miles on it. I'm curious as to whether the insert that's shown in my photo above is the original, or at least is the original configuration. Do you know which year that hydraulic inserts gave way to the gas charged?

My 87 with original suspension had the boge struts full of oil when I replaced them a few years ago.
I went with Bilsteins from Elephant.

OK, so with a little persuasion the internals came out no problem (as per KTL's post above) as already warned an amazing amount of oil/fluid came out. Interestingly the other shock had a BOGE Cartridge which came out even easier without the messy fluid. Any recommendations for replacements ? Cheers Mark.

The picture shows the original boge multi piece fluid filled "insert".

For future reference, the easiest way I have found to remove the (stuck) internals after the nut is removed, is to cover the top with a rag and push down on the strut shaft...it will just pop out. Be sure to use the rag or you will be covered in hydraulic fluid...ask me how I know...

I bought some Bilstein strut inserts as stock replacements for my 87 as they have a new wiper (o-ring) and nut attached to the unit.

Don or anyone when you go to replace the stock ones are you supposed refill them with some oil or go oil free?

Bilstein says no oil in the strut for their newer inserts. I still drop a tablespoon or so because many of the ones I replace have rusted at the bottom.

get Bilstein Turbo Strut.

As it was impossible to suck out every drop of fluid from inside the strut with the turkey baster, there was definitely some left down there. The KYB inserts that I bought here for $42 bucks apiece have a small collar/spacer at the bottom so the shock doesn't sit down into any oil. After driving around for a few months now I'll report that the "cheap" KYBs are stiff enough for a firm ride and decent cornering on the streets. As for longevity, I'll wait and see (or die first). I've no doubt that the high-dollar shocks are the way to go if a car will be doing serious autocross or track duty.

Has anyone experienced insert spacing issues when using Bilstein inserts? I did this with my car. The left side is fine but the right Boge strut with Bilstein insert has a rattle due to a small gap.

Roke - when you tighten the collar, the insert should be compressed between the bottom of the strut tube and the collar. You are saying this isn't so for one side?

I'd hunt around for why. Maybe some threads are a bit bad? Little files can be useful.

But if all else fails, drop a wahser or two of suitable size in the empty tube. This will in essence shorten the tube vis a vis the insert, and allow the collar and other parts up top to do their jobs.