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Storage Question
I need to store my SC for four months and did all the normal stuff. Should I put a stick between the clutch pedal and dash to depress the clutch so the clutch doesn’t freeze to the flywheel?
Ryce |
I wouldn't want the diaphragm spring to be depressed for months on end. I see you're from Miami. I would want to keep the car in as dry a space as possible. When I've had a clutch stick after storage, the car had been in a damp area.
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I don't even consider 4 months as storage, IMO. Put a battery tender on it, and you're done.
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My car has been outside for the last 33 years, it will be damp.
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Remove the stick or it will damage the spring in four months?
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Mine is parked for at least 5 months over the winter, but is in a relatively dry location. As others have said, keep it out of the damp and put a battery tender on it. I also use a fuel stabilizer. That should be all that's required.
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Fresh oil in addition to the fuel stabilizer in a full tank if you're truly OCD. And a battery tender.
We've been lucky this year with our winter as I've been able to take it out once a month for a good jaunt negating my winter storage preparations in October. |
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I say put the stick in because when the disc grabs, it can usually be separated with ease. However, in my experience, I have seen one car (81 Alfa Spider) that stuck and would not unstick. Had to pull motor. |
I store in Savannah, GA for several months at a time and have been doing so for 9 years. Very humid environment. I usually put on a battery tender if longer than 2 months. I typically use Startron in nearly every tank of gas and have never had a fuel issue even if tank is not full. No clutch issues, but occaissionally the break pads are a bit sticky if the rotors have surface rust.
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Stop by once in a while and depress the clutch a few times. My old cars (3) are stored in my garage in Oregon, damp, for 3 months in the winter while I'm gone and I've never had a issue.
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I store my cars for the long winter here. I use a Car Jacket that comes with reusable descant that's put in trays under the car and in the trunk and inside. Works perfect. Never had a problem with the clutch sticking.
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put a can of damp-rid in the car to keep the interior dry. i wouldnt do anything with the clutch. putting stress on the cable and springs is not good. The clutch wont stick in 4 months no way
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I have three old classic cars in my garage, German, British and US, while I'm gone for the winter. All I do is disconnect the batteries, put them up on jack stands, put sta-bil in the fuel tank and cover.
When I get home I just put the batteries on a short charge and reverse everything. Then I take each on out for a 30 min drive and I'm good to go. Never had a problem in three years. I'm in wet Oregon. |
I have a question, is it better to keep the car covered or not during winter? I have mine stored in a garage, however I feel that putting the cover on actually make the car more damp and seems that condensation is forming because of the cover. Hence i'm tempted to remove the cover for the coming few months.
I live in BC, Canada and it is pretty wet. The last few week we had a lot of rain, and not enough cold temperature for snow... Thanks. |
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This is what I would do..... I have them stored for 6 months at a time and this is all I do.. |
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Brand new cars have sat on the dealership lot for much longer then that with nothing done to them.
just saying. |
My 911 has been off the road for 14 months now and I know its fine. Just leave it.
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My add-on suggestions:
Place a small desk fan under the car and perhaps inside as well. Connect them to timers so they cycle ON-OFF, say once a day. Cover with a breathable cover. Install a quick-disconnect onto the battery. Leave it in the OFF position, then connect the battery maintainer directly onto the battery posts. This keeps the battery up to charge while disconnecting the battery from the vehicle electrical system. This also provides a means of conveniently running the engine during storage if needed (and recommended). Don't have any solutions to rodents though. Sherwood |
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